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Horacehoare

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Posts posted by Horacehoare

  1. Afternoon all,

    My 64 TR4 has recently developed a fault which I'm struggling to find. From cold, on full choke she'll start no problem but then after 10 seconds or so she drops onto two cylinders, with the front two going AWOL. That being the case I've been concentrating my efforts on the front carb (Stromberg) The carbs were rebuilt including new diaphragms on completion of the restoration so should be ok but I'm stuggling to find a fault.

    Any help would be very much appreciated.

    Cheers

     

    Phill Hoare

  2. Hello all,

    Just getting round to fitting a new hood on my 1964 TR4 following a very lengthy restoration and have hit a few snags (Really?) I bought the hood from Rimmers about ten years ago when I first bought the car in bits. Any help on the issues below would be much appreciated;

    (See pictures attached)

    The Rimmers catalogue shows three stiffeners for the front edge of the hood which I purchased as the old ones were completely rusted away. When I look at the new hood it seems to have a stiffener already inserted (Pic 1)

    The chrome trim on top of the screen frame doesn't look the same as the one in the catalogue (Pic2) I think it might be a TR6 one and if so will it work with the new hood? There seems to be a lip along the front edge that captures the front of the hood.

    There are no male press studs on the screen frame (Pic 3) so not sure where these are supposed to go and, therefore, where the ones on the hood go. There is a little triangular flap on the inside front corners of  the new hood (Pic 4), is this where the female studs go?

    How is the little wire clip that attaches to the bracket on the screen frame attached to the hood? (Pic 5)

    Any advice or pictures of existing hoods would be really helpful, thanks.

    All the best

    Phill

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  3. I am just rebuilding the twin Stromberg CD175's on the old TR4 and have a question about a part on each carb that I don't recognise. On one carb it is a brass nut which seems to be a plug for a small opening into the body of the carb and on the other,in the same place, is a small plastic 'L' shaped fitting also with a rubber plug over it. It does however have a small opening in the plastic tube part. Photos attached. Any help would be much appreciated.

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  4. Hello folks, still coming to the end of a very lengthy TR4 rebuild and having a problem with the charging system. I have a new loom, a new battery,  a new dynamo and a new control box but the ignition light stays on when running. I tried the old control box in case the new one was poor quality but same result. Have downloaded test information for the control box but electrics isn’t my strong point and I’m really struggling. Any thoughts please? Am in Milton Keynes just in case there’s an auto electric wizard in the area!!! Cheers, Phill

  5. Thanks for that Rich, mine is a 1964 so presumably would have the telescopic type originally. I'm just finishing off a very lengthy restoration and in one of the boxes it came in was the stay itself but no bracket. I'm trying to make a new one and needed to make sure it goes in the correct position! If anyone has an old one laying about that is surplus to requirements (Bracket not stay)  I'd be very interested!!

    Thanks again guys

    Phill

  6. Thanks again folks for all your comments. The engine rebuild consisted of new rings, new main bearings and a reground crank and new top end, valves, guides, springs and seats for unleaded.

    I had it running with bags of oil pressure only a month or so before so was a bit confused (not difficult!) Anyway, all seems good now.

  7. Hello all, 

    There is a small plastic circular item, with electrical terminals attached, fitted to the rear of my TR4 speedo where the cable usually screws in and it has a threaded boss to take the cable so this item is basically between the cable and the speedo (See photo) Can't find any pics/info, any ideas what it might be?

    Cheers

    Phill

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  8. Hello all,

    Quick update, luckily before dropping the sump and removing the oil pump I tried one more time to spin it up and this time did it for about 40 seconds and 'Hurrah!' it arrived. Presumably I just didn't spin it up for long enough before, rookie error! Still a little surprised that I lost the pressure to that extent by just letting it stand for a month or so? Thanks again for all your help guys.

  9. Thanks Roger, I've had the engine running with good oil pressure after the rebuild then it disappeared!! Yep, full of nice new oil, and have been spinning it up without the plugs in but nothing.

    Obviously hoping not having to resort to your last suggestion but fear it may be the only option left.

    Thanks again

    Phill

  10. Thanks Roger, I've had the engine running with good oil pressure after the rebuild then it disappeared!! Yep, full of nice new oil, and have been spinning it up without the plugs in but nothing.

    Obviously hoping not having to resort to your last suggestion but fear it may be the only option left.

    Thanks again

    Phill

  11. Hi all,

    Just about to try out my TR4 after a very lengthy rebuild and I've lost oil pressure completely having had a good pressure before. Tried everything thats recommended in the forums including checking the tongue on the end of the drive shaft, the woodruff key on the shaft, turning the pump with a long screwdriver ( Can feel some back pressure), pipe feed to gauge etc. with no luck. Worryingly I've just tried turning it over with the threaded stud where the banjo fitting to the gauge pipe goes and there's nothing coming out! 

    Any thoughts please

    Kind regards

    Phill

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