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D Murton

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Posts posted by D Murton

  1. I might be being incredibly thick (which is not unusual) but surely the only reason to fix the plate is to aid fitting the bolt or stop the plate falling off if you take the bolt out.

    You also need to stop water ingress between plate & body shell to prevent corrosion.

    Why would rivets be any better than an adhesive as neither would seem to be adding any strength?

    Dave

  2. This is my theory.

    When driving there is a lot more air trying to get throudh the grille than can actually get through the rad leading to a higher pressure in front of the rad than behind it.

    Even if the flow through the rad is only 5mph (88inch/sec) then the air is only in the core for about 0.02 sec. I doubt if the temperature rise of the air is anything like ambient to 80C in 0.02 sec. & the change in density is insignificant.

    As long as the fan cowl (frame) is close to the rad it doesn't make any difference to the speed of freewheeling as the speed of the air ging into the rad will be about the same as the speed of the air coming out.

    At the end of the day you pay your money & make your choice. It doesn't really matter.

    I have a pusher & it gives a little more room when turning the engine over on the crank bolt to set the tappets etc. Otherwise I would't worry about where to put it.

    :ph34r::ph34r:

    Ready to be shot down in flames

    Dave

     

  3. When I first had my 4a I could only smell heat not feel it. After a lot of faffing about I found I had an airlock in the heater matrix & the only way I found to get a flow through was remove the hose from the heater valve & pour water into the hose until water came out of the heater valve then stick the hose back on quickly.

     

    Also you say you have the scuttle vent lid open. I thought this only allowed cold air into the plenum & out of the dash vents but I could well be wrong.

     

    Dave

  4. One of the things I have found very useful is a set of test leads that have small crocodile clips on the end.

    Particularly when checking voltages with the engine running it means you have at least one hand free to hold the meter to stop it vibrating off whatever you have rested it on & disappearing into the bottom of the engine bay.

     

    Dave

  5. Hmmmmmmm.

     

    I have a WiFi camera on my veranda, to watch our hedgehogs. It's blinding, when it works!

    I can control the camera, steer it about to watch their antics, from anywhere I have a phone signal.

    If I don't, I can't, so if you don't the burglars could come in mob-handed and you'd never know,

     

    JOhn

    Like John I have a WiFi camera to watch the hedgehogs in the garden.

    I use a cheap Wansview camera set to record onto the PC using free ISpy software.

    I think you can set this up to send alerts to a mobile & monitor the camera remotely although I haven't tried this.

    The biggest problem I found was setting the motion detection sensitivity but this is really because I an trying to detect quite small movements & setting up to detect large object (human) movement without too many false alarms should be much easier.

     

    Dave

  6. Hi Dave,

    part of the problem is that the covers are not 100% sealed so moisture laden air can get in from underneath.

    If the car body is colder than the air then it will condense.

     

    For the breathable covers the moisture will eventually evaporate away but it is not instant.

     

    Even if you put a tarpaulin over the top of the cover it will still happen BUT take longer to evaporate.

     

    Roger

    Quite so Roger

     

    When the car is outside for a couple of weeks I try to have the cover off as much as possible to get rid of any trapped moisture, get a good airflow underneath and dry the cover off the car.

     

    Dave

  7. I bought a so called breathable 3 layer top of the range outdoor cover from Specialized Covers & am not that impressed. It faded very quickly but more importantly they don't really 'breathe'. I still get condensation underneath the cover & on the bodywork in chilly weather, which I guess is inevitable with UK climate! Apart from keeping dust & stuff of the car I do not really think covers are that good in keeping moisture off the vehicle. Dehumidified garage is the only way I think.

    Cheers.

    Hi Monty

    My existing cover (Moltex) does suffer from a small amount of condensation in bad weather but I have only noticed this if taking the cover off then it is still wet.

    My garage is dry & well ventilated. I have tools that have been in there for 40+ years without showing signs of corrosion.

    Unfortunately the garage sometimes has to be used for other projects & the car has to live outside for a couple of weeks hence my need for a replacement cover to keep off the worst of the weather & the bird poo/ cat footprints.

     

    Dave

  8. Hi Roger

     

    You would think it would be easy to reproduce wouldn't you.

    When I got home I took out the offending item. It appeared to work OK most of the time but the plastic switch block is held into the metal body by staking on each side. This seemed to have been done by a visually impaired work experience person & so it was quite loose.

    Not wanting to risk breaking the switch by trying to tighten the staking & wanting to use the car while trying to source a proper replacement I resorted to sliding a thin strip of plastic between the switch block & body & retaining it with a blob neat bead of JB Weld.

    Now works perfectly every time. :) I didn't spend 40+ years in engineering for nothing.

    Browsing the web it looks as if everybody sells the same item although the one shown on the Racestorations site looks as if it has two additional rivets going into the switch block. Must investigate further.

     

    Dave

  9. Before last years MOT I had to replace the dip switch on the 4a.

    On Sunday I gave the car a good check to make sure everything was OK for this years M.OT.

    Turned up at the testing station today to find the dip switch only working intermittently.

    Luckily with a sympathetic MOT man & a bit of fiddling I got a pass.

    I know this has been discussed before but all the usual suspects seem to be selling the same switch.

    Has anyone got any idea of where I can get one that lasts more than 12 months?

     

    Dave

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