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james christie

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Everything posted by james christie

  1. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1207240 james
  2. Excellent work by everybody and a good effort by Mick to raise everybody’s comfort level. My experience with moaners is that they will always bitch and moan, even after serious improvements have been made - beacause then they will moan that « it ain’t the way it used to be » james
  3. “I hope to buy a royal enfieldinterceptor next year “ Stick with the TR, you don’t need a helmet james
  4. Memories, memories. I remember a certain Peter W stating some 50 years ago, that if we liked cars from the fifties they didn’t have to smell like one and he could provide the solution, Grose jets! I succombed to his excellent sales patter and fitted them to my 3A. They have never leaked james
  5. It has been known to ask her to take her tights off to help out a roadside repair...... james
  6. A reminder : these are tractor engines, they don't need rocket science to maintain them. You have the same supplier as me. Just cut a slot on the crown of the plug with a hack saw and screw driver it in to cleaned up threads in the head. First a dry run then if all is well glue it with Araldite. james
  7. Been running my 3A without a mechanical fan for over 30 years. Madame bust the crankshaft 40 years ago on the prom at La Baule and at that time it did have one. Draw your own conclusion! james
  8. The original relay can become unreliable after time (50 years in my case according to the inscription) and although you hear the click it may work intermittently. I changed mine for a modern one given the price difference. It doesn’t look the part but functions ok. james
  9. I’ve just done this job. No it doesn’t tap in but is screwed in. Your first challenge is getting the old one out, then cleaning up the threads as the current one will have been glued in, probably with Araldite or something similiar, which you can use on the new one. Although the thread in the head is straight and not tapered, the impression is that the plug will only go in so far because its thread and that in the block are not identical. Run a search on the Forum, there was quite a lot of exchanges on this very subject late last year, this spring Good luck james
  10. Yes Waldi, I am very much aware of that. As one always says, it was working perfectly (for 46 years) before without vibrations. If it vibrates, when I put it back, then I shall just take it out and rotate by 180°! james
  11. They sure are - those on the ‘fixed’ half of mine seem to be non- existent. Oh well, I shall have to fit it up and see if I am 180° out - there are 16 splines. I can’t think why Triumph engineers didn’t use a foolproof system with one larger spline. Maybe it was more expensive than employing an apprentice to scribe every propshaft. But thanks, it gives me an area to indicate to those with better sight than me, where it might be found! james
  12. Thanks Piwi I have got that bit right - well nearly, since it can be put together 180° out. I’m having a strong drink right now to encourage me to follow Stuart’s suggestionto go looking for arras! james
  13. Thanks Stuart. The whole is covered in two coats of 1978 Hammerite which is a lot harder to remove than the 2020 formula, even with a cutting brush! Hence myappeal for an approximate guide to where to find it james
  14. Sorry, but I still haven’t got it. Roger - My thanks for sorting out the terminology and the link. Ed - I believe that the propshafts were identical from TR2 through to TR6. I have the rigid yokes in phase but what do you mean by rh yoke. I also don’t understand the 90° bit james
  15. I have mine on the long bolt holding the body to the chassis just behind each seat. For added safety I have added a nut james
  16. Hi Ed Can you enlighten me a bit more? james
  17. A knocking and a vibration from around the propshaft has provoked me into renewing the cv joints at both ends of the propshaft on my 3A. Not a difficult job but fastidious. Took about 1 1/2 hours on the bench this morning. Incidentally I got the propshaft out fairly easily without removing the gb cover. Having disassembled everything I decided to clean out the sliding splines. With the dust cap removed the cork seal just fellapart, judging from the amount of grease around the walls of the gearbox cover, it wasn’t doing much of a job, anyway. As I don’t recall changing it when I rebuilt the c
  18. "easy to buy from Tesco, online etc." Much more fun to buy it at Tesco, you might get a knowing smile from the girl at the till. james
  19. More often than not, the diaphragm has seized and the whole mechanism isn’t functionning - maybe for several years!!. I did away with mine some twenty years ago. Make sure you plug the manifold side if you decide put off repairs until later. james
  20. Wow! That’s different. Thought initially someone had stuck a spare Allen key in there! james
  21. You still allowed to use that stuff? It’s been banned here and any left in cans etc is supposed to be handed in to the authorities! james
  22. If you’re stuck for a spare rotor arm send me a PM as I can post you a spare red one from the Distributor Dr. But with the 14 of July coming up it won’t be with you until Wednesday, butyou can be certain that is faster than Royal Mail from UK - I live in the Morbihan. james
  23. Tweren’t very long ago that heaters came off the options list and became standard spec.! james
  24. A 4 synchro box with overdrive is a little bit longer cos the front lip is a bit thicker so the rear fitting will need to be modified a bit. james
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