james christie
-
Content Count
1,188 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by james christie
-
-
Now I call that courageous! And you had to translate the drawing in the Workshop Manual from inches into Cm.
I think if I had a frame in that state I would have ordered a new one!
Well done that man!!
james
.
-
You would of had sore feet if that lot had come through the bell housing!
james
-
Always found Gunson balancng tools wonderfully simple and easy to use. I hope you won’t regret getting rid of it. I have all the local herberts round here in summer time asking me to set up SUs. Never fails to impress!
james
-
2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
but forgot to hold onto the revenue?
I am now a distant and probably ignorant follower of UK economics but wasn't it North Sea oil that paid for the M25?
Oh and the pensions funded by BP and Shell profits.....
james
-
I think the Norwegians have just about got it right: export your oil and gas to be burnt elsewhere and with the the largesse accumulated you build hydro- electric dams and wind generators to be used in a non carbon creating economy at home
james
-
My brother had a Minibrix set. Disgusting stuff, you had to lick the base of the brick which had lugs, to fit it into the one below. Tasted awful, but we survived
james
-
Viessmann are excellent - when they work. Like many, they have gone down the sophisticated electronic route, which means that simple souls like me are incapable of repairing let alone servicing them - and I might add - of understanding how they work.
We installed a Viessman condensation boiler some 7 years ago and the fuel saving (lpg) has to be seen to be believed - about 30%.
BUT - if modern electronics offer me the possibilty of choosing the temperature of my choice in my living quarters then I expect it to do just that, which it used to do but doesn’t anymore. In spite of fancy sensors outside and inside the house there is always a variation of 1 or 2° from what I want. I am having a long running battle with the local agent.
So stick with your non electronic Baxi if you can!!
james
-
Thomas
Best to contact the TR Registrar, Mike Ellis, with the chassis number - he may be able to help you. His contact information is in the magazine - occasionally he posts on this Forum
james
-
In my experience it takes an awful lot of abuse to destroy a Briggs & Stratton.
James
-
49 minutes ago, Charlie D said:
I guess there is quite a charge if you need it replacing.
The buzzards wanted 1 100€ to re-install the wire! I didn’t bother to reply to their offer!
Getting the juice to the charging station is a very minor problem - mine is behind the garage and a hole drilled in the wall was sufficient.
Tell us more about the anti-collision sensors. At the moment I have to build a loop around each flower bed, the outward wire is neutralised by the inward.
james
-
Now that is enterprising!
I have had a Husqvarna 4300 robot mower ( we have 2500m2 to cut) for 4 years
Apart from a Motherboard burning out and taking 6 months to be replaced under warranty it has proved reliable over 2 000 hours and the cut is good.
The major problem is the periphery wire. The man who installed it buried it about 4cm down. Initial problem was moles sectioning the wire - easily repaired but finding the break over the 450m length taxed my patience. This spring the wire has simply corroded within the sheath, Husqvarna just don’t want to know, so I have to replace the lot this winter.
I have mixed feelings about the success of my investment. Initially I was impressed and interested in the technology but have become exasperated by the wire problem.
And anyway, mowing the lawn by traditional methods only takes 1.5 hours and is therapeutic……
james
-
Don’t worry about it too much, it’s a part of getting old. The important thing is to do so gracefully…..
james
-
Talk about putting unnecessary pressure on the poor **** that produce and distrbute this excellent publication !
james
-
‘I think if I was going for a new wing I would go for a light Alloy version so as to minimise corrosion.’
Roger’ are you sure that would be a good plan? I have a feeling (I’m dragging up A level physics from 55 years ago) that you might be setting up an electrolysis cell which would promote oxidation/rust.
james -
11 hours ago, North London Mike said:
I wonder how much licence our 'old' cars will be given at border posts etc.
Not a lot at the France/Belgium border, in my experience.
Some years ago the Belgian police had a nice little racket going where they sold me, at a ‘special’ price, the requisite F which I had omitted to put on my car.
james
-
+1
Only man ever to have made me wet myself in my own car!!
james
-
2 hours ago, stuart said:
unless you were in a hurry I would have done all of them in one go
You’re quite right of course!
I have no real excuse for not doing them all - but waiting for the remaining 6 to loosen themselves give me an excuse for not butchering them.
My expensive drill bit is wrapped in oilcloth awaiting the next ones
james
-
Rear Studs cont.
Encouraged by Ian Cornish, Stuart and others, here is how I, a mere amateur, went about the job of replacing the screw in studs by the press-in version.
First refer to the beginning of the thread to understand the problem.
Once I got the two damaged screw-in studs out, I marvelled that so few threads hold our wheel rims to the hubs. If I was doing any kind of competition work, the change to press-in studs with their decent shoulder flanges would be one of the first mods I would do!
It took a bit of courage to get stuck into enlarging out the holes in the hubs to take the press-in studs. Get it wrong and you’ll be looking for a new hub.
Thanks to advice from Stuart and others, and much measuring, I stumped up 30€ for a 12.8mm or 1/2inch cobalt stainless steel bit. The cobalt bit is probably overkill but it was all I could find locally. (The measured diam. of the root of the splines on the studs is 12.84mm and the external diam. 13.24.)
Next fix the hub to stop it rotating and prevent problems when the hand held drill inevitably snatches.
Then take your courage in two hands and get drilling, just make sure you are perpendicular to the hub, adding some drilling oil helps too. It’s worth putting a rag around the back to catch the swarf.
Smooth off the edges at both the front and the back with a file.
Trial fit your beautiful new studs, I had to grind off a bit to allow them to go home fully. See photo to understand why.
The new stud is pulled into place by using a few 12mm washers and a high tensile nut from your treasure box - thanks to Stuart for this advice.
The finished job. The new studs have the same length as the old ones at the business end.
I’ll change the other screw-in studs as and when they need to be done!
James
-
RobHMy apologies for having got your back up (again)
I only relate my own experience
james
-
Kevin, those studs have a chamfered shoulder whereas those I have just acquired are right angled. Make sure tha’ gets it right, preferably first time!
james
-
I have to disagree with you RobH - I just went out to look at my 3A. I have Revington anti-sways/roll bars fore and aft. The front one is about 5mm above the radiator guard.
The clearance in the chassis area where you are supposed to lift with a jack remains (?) at 156mm
Whilst the result is not Lotus like, they seem to have substantially reduced roll and understeer
james
-
For me the short answer to your question is that they look too short and yes they are the right nuts.
What happened? For sure, if you don’t use spacers then the normal studs are too long and can interfere with the wire wheels.
It looks to me that yours have been ultra shortened.
I went in the reverse direction a year ago and changed my wires for minilites - I got p***d off with the cleaning after 25 years. When I had fitted them I hacked off the excess which meant that I had to change the 16 wheel studs for longer onesfor the Minilites.
Easy enough on the front hubs which have the pressed in splined studs, but changing the rears to the original type screwed in ones, which are peened over, meant that the hubs had to be separated.
Unfortunately some insufficient peening has meant that one on each side has already pulled out and seriously benadgered the threads in each hub.
Thanks to some excellent advice on this forum I will convert the rear studs to the pressed in splined type - as and when they need to be changed.
Today was a good day as I finally managed to find a suitable drill piece in this metric country to open the holes in the hubs to what in blighty you call 1/2inch and here is 12,8mm.
Test drilling on a bit of scrap steel plate begins tomorrow - to see if I have got it right……
james
-
It can be a s*d to get out. The threads in the head will need cleaning out. The new one can be glued in with a modern form of Araldite placed on the threads.
There was a thread on this a year or so ago.
Goodluck!
james
-
I think they all split there, Don. Like all of us they become less supple with age. The heat rising from the gearbox can’t help things either.
james
Fuel Pump Pipe
in General TR Technical
Posted
An awful lot of 5/16” olives get sold as 1/4” and vice versa and a few more 6mm are sold as 1/4”
Make sure you have the right one!!
Don’t ask me how I know…..
james