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Paul Drescher

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Posts posted by Paul Drescher

  1. Hi Latest update-

    1.Removed the alternator connector, remove the 3 wires from the plastic connecting block, removed the brown/yellow wire that goes to the alternator warning lamp, I check continuity and no issues, not going to earth but straight from the alternator to the lamp holder good circuit

    2. Removed the small brown cable from the Alt connector, disconnected it from the battery positive cable connecting block, again not earthing and good circuit

    3. Removed the large brown charging cable from Alt to battery positive connection block, no issues again.

    4.Started the engine and Alt output was good about 13 volts on tick over.

    5. Started the engine and reconnected one wire at a time. no issues on all three, no hot cables ??? so I have no idea why different this time, but I did fasten the + and - battery cables tight this time and not left loose as it was when the charging cable overheated. The volt meter in the car works showing 12v but the alternator warning light goes out when the engine is running but when I switched the ignition to off and remove the keys the light comes on as if it’s getting a "feed" from the alternator so I’m very confused now.

    Regards Paul

     

  2. Hi Rob

    Thanks for the reply. I bought a brand new postive battery cable from Rimmers, it has the in line conector for the 3 brown (N) wires so its just plug in the wires from the harnes into tye connector, but as you suggest it feels like there is a short when the engine is "running" nothing happens when the engine is not operating and the battery cables connected. Deffinately struggling with this issue and really dont want to ruin the new harness.  What I have noticed when doing the rebuild the original brown charging cable from the alternator had been chopped off and repalecd with a heavier duty cable why ?? Lucas Alternator but I cant find any ID for the model/serial number etc. 3 Cables, one large and two small, large brown is the one that overheated as soon as the engine started to "run"

    Regards Paul

     

     

     

     

    Paul

  3. Hi Folks, I'm on the final stage of a nut and bolt resto, having converted LHD to RHD . Today I fitted a new wiring harness supplied by Moss. Fitted with no real issues but I had to change the ignition switch from the old prong style to a new Lucas with a connecting plug. When I started the engine very quickly the charging cable from the alternator started to smoke, I immediately stopped the engine. The alternator had been away for overhaul. When checking all connection's I noticed the connecting block for the ignition to wiring harness the wires appear to connect incorrectly, as if either Moss ( supplied I believe by Auto Sparks) or the bran new Lucas switch has been incorrectly installed. See photo. Could this be the issue? I have a volt hand held meter which I could attach to the alternator but what should it read? The larger brown cable from the alternator is the one that started to melt, just got to it in time. Thanks in advance. Paul Richard Drescher

    16514223262527188475852935409861.jpg

  4. 5 hours ago, WWT338J said:

    Paul

    Have you downloaded the full set of Dan Master's original wiring schematics? They're for US cars but the colour helps and most is transferable to RHD cars.  https://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

    Photos 1 & 3

    I think the two brown wires to the alternator share the load - one big, one small. They should be the same two brown wires that terminate in ring terminals on the starter motor. You could check this with a continuity tester. The thick red battery lead connects the battery to the same terminal on the starter motor.

    The white/red wire goes to the solenoid terminal on the starter motor - I think it may need a spade connector. Again you can check with a continuity tester - the other end should be the starter contact on the ignition switch.

    The white/brown lead you are holding is for the oil pressure switch. This has a black sleeve over much of it's free length. The free white lead should go to the coil + terminal. Don't forget you'll need to connect the - terminal to the points in the distributor (a short black lead with a spade terminal on each end). The brown/yellow lead connects to the ignition warning light terminal on the alternator. The green/blue lead also with a black cover sheath connects to the temp sensor on the water pump. 

    Photo 2

    As far as the brown leads are concerned I think you are missing a connector. Part 32 on this Moss diagram https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/electrical-system/wiring-harnesses-fittings/wiring-harness-fittings-tr5-6-1967-76.html . I can see two spare holes in the inner wing just in front of the fuse box - this is where the connector is rivetted in place. The connector is a legacy from when alternators had external regulators. The two brown wires join together in the connector block. The free white lead is probably the feed to the PI fuel pump and it probably connects to one of the free white wires behind the wiper motor. Again you can check with a continuity tester. If so then you can leave it free as you are running carbs. The other free white lead behind the wiper motor would be the feed to the fuel pump in the boot. The two white wires are for a bulkhead mounted inertia cut out switch for the fuel pump.

    Hope this helps

    Good luck!

    David

     

     

     

     

    Dave

    Big thanks for the promt reply, when looking at the ignition connections the loom looks that its not correct, so tonight more research suggests I should have bought the loom for the CR model not CP. The CR is from 1973 to 1976 my car USA September 72 production but a 1973 model hence the confusion. I have removed the new harness and cleaned and will send back to Moss for a refund/exchange, hopefully the craful clean and repack will secure the refund/exchange their catalouge is very poor with regards to wiring harness. Lesson learned I should have gone direct to Autosparks which I did initially by sending them an email but they never bothered to respond. Thanks for the help.

    Regards

     

    Paul

  5. Hi Folks

    I have carried out a LHD USA Spec TR6 to RHD conversion and I am now installing a new wiring loom that I purchased from Moss motors, the original commissioning number is CF269U September 1972 but model year 1973 according to the vehicle identification. Prior to buying the RHD harness from Moss I reviewed wiring diagrams on the "advancedautowire" website and chose the 1973 diagram as this had the ignition switch with 6 tabs as per original wire harness that I removed. Moss supply various options for RHD so I chose part TP57C for TR6 CP50001 to CR1.

    During the installation of the harness I have noticed quite a few differences, firstly the original harness had 3 tabs for the oil switch, it appears the new has one, I believe this to be brown but wiring diagrams appear so different to the new harness but BS-AU7 colour code for vehicles states brown wire? secondly there are 3 brown wires that i have no idea where they should connect, I presume to battery positive terminal?? the old harness has 3 brown wires that connected to a connection block on the main feed to the starter on the other side of the engine bay. There are also some white wires which I don’t know where to connect, I have attach some photos 3 slides that should help explain my problem. Finally, there are two brown wires that appear to be for the starter as they are wrapped with the white and read wire for the solenoid. 

    SO

    • 3 wires adjacent to alternator :- brown oil pressure switch? white/brown wire ?? white wire coil + ??? 
    • spare white wires next to the window wash pump?
    • white wire adjacent to fuse box?
    • 3 brown adjacent to fuse box?
    • 2 brown wires for starter

     

    TR6 Wiring Harness.pdf

  6. Hi Roger

    Thanks for the prompt reply, did you use a contact adhesive or a silicone type of sealant that will "go off" slower? I have some Gorilla adhesive cartridge type and according to the instructions goes off after 10 minutes or so. Thanks and Regards

    Rich

  7. Hi Folks

    Resto 80% complete, my standard steel wheels have returned from the paint shop and are ready for tyres. My car is a late 72 LHD conversion. I've read some info regarding suitable tyres, my initial thoughts is to go for 195/65/15 but 205/65/15 will give a nice look regards stance. I'm not going for a concourse car so I don't need to keep with the original set up. Apricate feed back of anyone that has tried the slightly wider tyre and what impact it has on the weight of steering, issues with contact with body etc.

    Kind Regards Rich

  8. Hi Folks

    Bought a new dash top crash pad and tried to install and failed. I used trim/carpet contact adhesive but by the nature of the name it sticks at soon as it touches the opposite surface which has proved to be a nightmare as I couldn't get the vent holes and bolt holes to align prior to contact but the top and front had already made contact. 2 hours later after removing all the adhesive I'm ready to go again but I need a adhesive that doesn't instantly set so I have time to position correctly. Has anyone suggestions of a suitable "glue" that will be suitable that will allow sum movement prior to "going off"

    Regards Rich

  9. On 2/1/2021 at 7:31 PM, PodOne said:

    If it's any help I was in the same boat regarding a rebuild and decided to go for a more or less std build spec as the car will be no track dog but more of a sedate cruiser able to keep up with modern traffic and hopefully sound good. She will run on her original PI (UK 1969) So I went for the following;

    Bottom end; crank regrind, shells, rebore/country pistons/rings, cam bearing (out of spec), new OEM std cam, blue printed oil pump, new damper. The whole bottom end plus fly wheel and clutch cover balanced.

    Head; std head, bronze guides, exhaust seats replaced, new valves/springs, hardened rocker shaft and bushed rockers. Distributor rebuilt from DD with electronic ignition.

    Exhaust is a nearly new 2 3/4" only decision left is which exhaust manifold. After reading the comments here I'm tempted to keep the cast manifold if it flows as well as people says rather than a tubular design?

    I'm getting the impression there are different cast manifolds? Is the early one the one to keep?

    Agree with comments around sorting the rest of the car before any increases in power otherwise it will either not end well or will never allow the increase in power to be used effectively.

    Cheers

    Andy 

    Hi Andy

     

    I see that you live in Wakefield, who did you use for the balancing and any engine work?

     

    Regards Rich

  10. Hi All 

     

    Big thanks for the feed back to date, I've realised that I'm responding with my usual middle name which is Richard! Yes my first name is Paul so anything official I use this, so I apologise for any confusion, my Mother has so much to answer for she even changed my twin brothers name after 1 year again from first to middle. I wont give her a hard time now as she is heading towards her late 80s !

     

    Regards Paul Richard Drescher

  11. On 2/1/2021 at 7:31 PM, PodOne said:

    If it's any help I was in the same boat regarding a rebuild and decided to go for a more or less std build spec as the car will be no track dog but more of a sedate cruiser able to keep up with modern traffic and hopefully sound good. She will run on her original PI (UK 1969) So I went for the following;

    Bottom end; crank regrind, shells, rebore/country pistons/rings, cam bearing (out of spec), new OEM std cam, blue printed oil pump, new damper. The whole bottom end plus fly wheel and clutch cover balanced.

    Head; std head, bronze guides, exhaust seats replaced, new valves/springs, hardened rocker shaft and bushed rockers. Distributor rebuilt from DD with electronic ignition.

    Exhaust is a nearly new 2 3/4" only decision left is which exhaust manifold. After reading the comments here I'm tempted to keep the cast manifold if it flows as well as people says rather than a tubular design?

    I'm getting the impression there are different cast manifolds? Is the early one the one to keep?

    Agree with comments around sorting the rest of the car before any increases in power otherwise it will either not end well or will never allow the increase in power to be used effectively.

    Cheers

    Andy 

    Andy

    Thanks for the reply, like you i want a car with some gusto but not a street racer, must be reliable but fun and a little bit of z.

    Rich

  12. On 2/1/2021 at 1:34 PM, cvtrian said:

    Well, my advice would be to get the car handling properly before increasing any power, ie suspension, brakes, steering and tyres. Cars set up properly in this way will always be a better driving experience than any power increase can produce.
    I would then go step by step, starting with the head, valve sizes, porting and compression ratio. After that you start spending more money for often relatively marginal gain in the real world, particularly if you simply drive the car quickly and not flat out or in competition.
    A car well sorted in the handling department will beat many a car with more power.
    Tin hat on
    Ian

    Hi Ian

    Thanks for the reply, I've gone for a Standard road set up, replaced all suspension/steering bushes (blue) overhauled the original rear shock dampeners, fitted new road springs on all four corners, new crossed drilled discs front and new pistons/seals etc on the rear.  The car will be for a Sunday lively drive definitely no racing, just good fun with a bit of Zip

    Best Regards Rich

     

  13. On 2/1/2021 at 12:10 PM, Tim D. said:

    Hi Paul,

    There's lots on the forum from the past on this.. But first thing to think about before dolling out the cash is how you drive the car, and what makes you smile? For example, Is it dropping it down a cog or two and whipping it up to redline? or is it the boot of low down torque? or is it actually the throaty raw of the engine? ( I put this one in because my first classic, a spitfire with twin webbers, went through a period of having a really sexy bark on over run. I knew it was a manifold leak, but I left it because it felt good getting the crackeling from the exhaust as I drove it around town :-)

     Obviously you can tune to ultimate power etc but inevitably this comes at a price (money and often drivability) or you can tune for fun... They are not the same thing..

    I went through the high reving phase when i had an elan with the lotus twincam. Wonderful when mated to the ford Gearbox..

    I now enjoy low down torque and am lazy with the gears. Which is why I went with the supercharger in the TR. I also have an MG midget with a 1.8 K Series engine. This gives you both.. can drive in 5th round town, and howls up to 8K rpm... but not as nice to drive long distances as the TR.

    My point (and apologies for meandering) is think carefully about what driving experience you want before commiting.. Ideal drive some examples (I know... not really on at the mo!).

     

    Cheers

    Tim

    Hi Tim

     

    Thanks for the prompt reply, yes i want a nice sound as all us petrol heads do, come the day of electric I will hopefully be in a cask!   Regarding driving style, no huge trips across Europe, just local runs around Gods Country Yorkshire, with the capability of zipping past the Sunday driver .

     

    Rich

  14. On 2/1/2021 at 10:35 AM, matt george said:

    Hi Paul,

    I restored an ex-US TR6 a couple of years ago. Engine was rebuilt including most of the modifications that you've mentioned, with excellent results. Block chemically dipped, then line bored for cam bearings. All the bottom end rotating parts were balanced, which allows for higher revs without encountering any issues. 218225 cylinder head, new valves, hardened seats, lightly skimmed to give a compression ratio of 10.1:1. Piper Yellow cam, twin SU HS6 (BCH needles) on a long branch inlet manifold. 6-2-1 exhaust manifold and 2.25in Phoenix straight through exhaust system. I know the 6-3-1 manifold is rated more highly, but mine was free, so that went on.

    With all of the above, the car goes very well ;) For what was a relatively 'budget' build, I'm delighted. In terms of bang for buck, a well set up pair of SUs with suitable needles are hard to beat. Sure, EFI or Webers will ultimately allow for more power, but the much higher cost put both of those options out of my price range. I also have a 2000 saloon that has been running a tuned 2500TC engine on SUs for the past nine years, again with great results, so I can vouch for that method of fuel delivery over a longer period of time.

    Matt

    Matt great feed back, thanks. I removed the Cam today and all looks good regarding wear/marks is the line boring a common mods and something I need to do even if everything looks good? Who did you use for balancing and chem clean of the block??

     

    Rich

  15. On 2/1/2021 at 10:25 AM, JohnC said:

     

    That's the single most noticeable improvement I've made to my 6. After a rebuild 20 years ago, I still remember the smile the smoothness brought to my face. Not to mention the extra 1000-odd RPM I felt able to use ( didn't dare go close to the red line before!).

    I'm intrigued by that, and not in a skeptical way. That's the next mod on my roadmap, now that I've done the head gas-flowing and CR increase. I'll probably go ahead regardless, but I will do before & after dyno runs. 

    John

    Hi John 

    Yep balancing appears to be a good idea while the engine is in bits,  how expensive did you find it?

  16. On 2/1/2021 at 10:13 AM, TRTOM2498PI said:

    Hi Paul,

    You will no doubt receive many different ideas here, but essentially, the items you need to change/improve will be the same.

    First of all, there are no short cuts to a successful engine !

    1. The later 'ribbed' block is a good starting point.  It is ribbed along the length of the induction side, these are considered stronger.

    2. Good quality pistons (unless you only need rings) ? Mahle are a very good quality piston.

    3. Get the engine balanced (pistons, rods, flywheel, clutch cover, crank damper, camshaft). Vibration Free in Bicester have a very good reputation.

    4. If you're keeping twin carbs, Newman cams do a cam that will work well with them. There are based on a new chill cast blank. Their EN40 steel followers to match are also very good.

    5. Gas flowed cylinder head, skimmed for increased CR to match the new cam, with new guides.  You cut have unleaded valve seats fitted at this stage too. Peter Burgess in Derbyshire can take care of the head including valves.

    6. 6-3-1 peformance exhaust manifold. Coupled to a 2.25" straight through big bore system.

    7. Standard distributor rebuilt will be fine, and contact breaker points will also be sufficient.

     

    I estimate the above to provide at least 165bhp.

     

    That would be a good start.  If you went for webers, then you could go for a more radical cam, and achieve at least 185bhp easily+

     

    Cheers.

     

    Great feed back thanks

    1.  Ribbed block ? i presume engine block any pictures of what i need to look for?

    2. Pistons look in great original condition with a few tiny markings so I'm going to measure and if OK just replace all piston rings

    3. Now definitely considering balancing, please excuse my ignorance but how do you balance piston rods and pistons, i understand crank assembly as this could be put in a balance machine as a unit but rods and and pistons how do this work?

    4. Removed Cam followers today, look perfect, if i get a new cam do i have to buy the followers to match the cam?

    5. 6. 7. Agree 

  17. On 1/31/2021 at 10:30 PM, john.r.davies said:

    Hi, Paul and welcome!

    1/ If you can get 99 octane (Shell V-plus or BP Ultimate) then a skim to 10.5 will work.     

    4/ Stainless isn't a performance improvement.     A 6-3-1 wil improve power mid-range, more useful than top revs.

    5/  Red rotor arm - again no performance improvement but more reliable

    Hi John

    TESCO do a 99 octane much cheaper, our local Rally Drivers fill their cans at the local TESCO'sI take my 370Z their for a monthly fill up. What advantage will CR 10.5 would be compared to 9.5 ? could this compromise any future head gasket leaks that cold require head re-skim?

    Rich

  18. On 1/31/2021 at 10:24 PM, harlequin said:

    Paul

    You mention larger exhaust valves, Triumph fitted the smaller valves on the later engines to improve breathing. I know it sounds daft but the bigger valves I am told, obstructed flow.

    I found the Phoenix manifold gave off a lot of heat that caused running issues in traffic and on hot days plus it made changing the starter motor a real pain so I put the original manifold back on, I was surprised to find absolutely no difference in performance.

    The difference in performance between SUs and Strombergs is zero, both are good for a road car providing that they are in good condition and set up correctly.

    The biggest boost to performance will be having the head skimmed to 9.5 to 1, a good cam like the Newman one that Colin has and a Dizzy Doctor distributor. If you go on the Goodparts website there is a chart that will give you the figures for the skimming work.

    George 

     

    Hi George

     

    Thanks for the reply, had some great feed back, CR 9.5 appears to be suitable for what I require as suggested the cam needs to compliment the head changes, any recommendations for  cylinder head work?

  19. On 1/31/2021 at 8:04 PM, colin3511 said:

    Paul,

    Just did this.

    1. Newman fast road cam £210 delivered.

    2. Rebuilt distributor by Distributor Doctor £250.

    3. Rebuilt head with bronze guides and hardened seats. Ported and polished £800.

    4. Triple Weber’s £1800 including manifold and linkages.

    5. Phoenix extractor manifold and single big bore exhaust. £800 but I picked a second hand one up for £350.

    Massive improvement on stock car although I have got new hubs, drive shafts and BMW diff.

    165+ BHP. If you can do some of the head work yourself you can save some of the cost.

    Happy to answer any questions if you want to PM me.

    Colin

     

     

     

    Hi Colin

    Thanks for the great feed back, I'm planning what you have recommended possibly stick with the SU carbs and maybe change out to Webbers 3 off  at a later date. I've had numerous questions about driving style/need. I believe i want a good noise, some grunt to overtake on a a class road, and fun on my local country lanes but no drag racing.

    Did you do any crank/flywheel balancing? who did your head work and what CR did you go for??

    Regards Rich

     

     

  20. Hi All

    I have a September 1972 US Spec TR6 which I have been restoring for the past year, chassis refurb complete, all running gear replaced, diff and gearbox rebuilt, LHD to LHD complete,  body is waiting to go off to be painted so I'm now at the point of totally dismantling the engine for inspection and rebuild. I want to improve the HP of the engine to about 140 but without spending a ridicules sum of money. I have come across some old threads but at times the topic becomes embroiled with with technical jostling between individuals. So I would like feed back on the following improvements that I am planning

    1. Head overhaul, fitting new hardened valve seats, skim head to increase CR to ? please advise, bigger exhaust valves and porting improvements?? please advise.  Any suggested specialists who mare familiar with this work??? I live in East Yorkshire. 

    2. Managed to get a pair of second hand SU carbs to replace the Strombergs, these will be refurbished fitting appropriate needles etc.

    3. New Cam, fast road cam, any suggested type/supplier

    4, SS Sports manifold and exhaust

    5. I have read about

    6. Distributor improvements? what is required

    It would be great if anyone has done similar work to what I'm suggesting and what costs were incurred, my ambition  is just to get performance closer to a UK spec TR6 and will be a reliable and easy drive not a screaming racer.

    Regards Paul

     

     

     

  21. Hi

    I'm on the final stages of rebuilding my TR6 4 speed gearbox, when rebuilding the top cover selector system I have found some damage to the 1st and 2nd selector, attached are photos of the 1st and 2nd selector along with one of the reverse selector which is in good order.  As these parts are no longer available I'm considering tig weld overlay and then machine back to original dimensions, but I have noticed that the reverse selector has machined leading edges but the 1st/2nd dose not, can anyone advise if that how it should be or has a machining step been missed when originally manufactured?

    Regards

     

    Paul

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