Yarm 783
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Posts posted by Yarm 783
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14 hours ago, John McCormack said:
The TR Shop list a stainless system with a Bell Quality exhaust at 270pds, a Double S silencer 255 pds and with a Phoenix silencer for 360pds.
What is the difference between the systems. Is the Phoenix silencer a straight fit to a stock car and is it any better then the double S or stock system?
John, so I purchased the sport system, 6-3-1 manifold to single pipe which routes to a crossbox and then twin pipe exit. It looks as per the original except a little larger. I think the manifold works much better, much free-er breathing and less ‘farty’ noise, more rorty, but settles down to a relaxed cruise. I haven’t tried the other systems so can’t compare. I didn’t like the ground clearance on the double silencer and never liked the look (wheelbarrow handles) of that system. I hated my standard exhaust sound (two farty three cyl engines in tandem), hence the change. Finally, speaking to the TRShop team, mine is slightly more civilized than the straight through system. Hope that helps.
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Tim, I took 195’s off my car, they weren’t low profile and I would say a mid-range Tyre. Steering very heavy at low speeds, not progressive at all, but yes, good grip. Looks like your 6 is tuned for performance and so I totally understand where you are coming from, but for more ‘Normal’ driving, I fully agree with aardvarks sentiments. That’s the fun of this forum, so may different views.
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Jonathon, any of these tyres will be a considerable improvement over what the factory fitted in the 60’s and 70’s. The XAS and CA67 because they use modern construction and materials, but true to the original tread and design (I think the CA67’s even come out of the same mold). The Vreds are a modern take on older tyres, well liked and quite a lot cheaper. I don’t ‘hooly’ around these days, preferring a brisk cross country pace and any of these are more than up top that task without any safety issues at all. Everybody has a different set of ‘drivers’ (excuse the bad pun) but any of these tyres would be a great choice.
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I think this may have been covered, could anyone advise as to who supplies good quality ‘stamped’ commissioning plates if I supplied the information?
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Yes, I bought them with Michelin inner tubes. I don’t do many miles either. If you are sticking with stock width, then either the XAS or CA67 will be good for you. I think the XAS was standard at the factory, but the technology is much better now. In the end the thing that did it for me was, I preferred how the Pirelli looked.
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I fitted four Pirelli Cinturato 165 x 15 ca67’s from Longstones 6 months ago. I love them, compliant, good grip (for the width) and very progressive. No road noise to hear off and they look right on the car. The downside is they aren’t cheap, but I have no reservations. I hear the XAS is a good Tyre as well.
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Short but sweet video, new exhaust note.
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All done, I have taken Yarm out for a couple of runs now, this exhaust is fantastic. On full bore it is how a British sports car should sound (accepting this is subjective) and on part throttle, perfectly relaxed for the cruise. My TR6 is, I think, how it should be, as opposed to sounding like it had two Suzuki three cylinder engines in the engine bay previously. Quicker? Sounds it, but possibly not. Free-er, yes it defiantly makes a difference and as I said, it sounds special!
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I fitted Alicool, to my TR6 and Defender, great product, good value...it’s gasoline, don’t mess about.
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I bought a Becker Monaco period radio from Chrome London. They gut them and install DAB and Bluetooth. A decent set of speakers in the kidneys will be plenty. I have an antenna under the dash, works fine, but mostly I Bluetooth my iPod and play iTunes if I want more music than the engine can provide, great for longer trips. They are a bit pricey, but they have plenty of choice in their ‘value’ spectrum.
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The only question is vinyl or mohair, I love the vinyl look, but went mohair, don’t ask me why, but I’m very happy with it. Don Trimming are great to deal with and work to their quoted times, might be worth getting it professionally fitted though, it’s a handful for a layman.
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Just to conclude the thread, I received the exhaust and kit from TRShop. The Phoenix exhaust really is a high quality fabrication. In terms of fitting, three arms would have helped but it’s all doable. The manifold is tight, but fits, no issues with it. The pipe work fitted perfectly, no ‘body bumping’ problems, all three brackets fitted fine, though the one from the overdrive takes some figuring out. I’ll hopefully get to take it out for a run over the weekend, so likely one last post on the outcome...looks great too!
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I removed the existing system today, some industrial language, a lot of ‘difficult to access’ nuts and bolts and I even managed to give myself an uppercut after 1 very stubborn pipe released a little to abruptly. Awaiting Phoenix system now, hopefully here next week, a problem with gasket stock apparently holding things up.
Anyway, two things:
1. When I removed the two manifolds it looked like there was some sealant on there, is it needed and if so what type/ brand would you recommend;
2. I have this full system which is in great condition, it was put on new in 2017, if anybody is interested in buying this please message me, full system plus fittings.
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Nige, cover the starter motor with a bin bag or something, you don’t want all that **** all over your ‘electrics’. You might need to poke around in there to get all the crud out out, my advice, flush for 15 minutes with a hose through the thermostat.
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Nige, It was fiddly but I managed to fit from the top, the filter is pointing downwards, but at a slight angle, see photo. Make sure and get the seals positioned properly. Took me about 30 minutes all in.
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John, I’m with Waldi on this one, use a decent sealant with a new gasket, I’ve just had the sump off and it went back fine. The threads are known for stripping so go with recommended torque setting as much as possible, the sealant will ‘help’ the weaker threads. All of that said, if you can stop a TR leaking you are either a genius, a magician or a liar.
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I have a new set of Pirelli 165’s on the car, I have aN identical tyre as a spare, it is c7 years old. If you directly compare the two, the rubber on the new tyres is pretty ‘compliant’, on the spare it is much harder. I will be replacing the spare before long.
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Hi Rob, yes I flushed the whole system, the rad was full of crud as was the block, In fact I had to poke a screwdriver into the drain plug near the starter, scraped some pretty solid stuff out and then flushed for quite a while...oh the joys of old school cooling. It’s difficult to say what ratio the cooling improvements can be apportioned to that or the 4Life. What I can say is that I drained the system a year later, zero crud. I then recored the rad for good measure. The car runs a little cooler, but significantly doesn’t overheat when stationary or on hot days, both of which it did on occasion prior to the changes.
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Mick, 4Life isn’t waterless, water is part of the formulation, I am speaking from experience, not hearsay and did my product research. I didn’t use Evans for all of the reasons stated in this post, I wouldn’t use a waterless coolant either. Each to their own, but beware comments made on products that misrepresent the situation.
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I have always used 4Life, it isn’t waterless, but keeps the dreaded rust at bay. It also allows the engine to run a touch cooler, whatever any of the keyboard scientists say. They do a liter size which is handy for carrying in the boot. If you drain it can be reused. 10 yr warrant and colors in event off contamination (head gasket). I have no connection but would recommend.
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Sean, on 1) just keep the windows ‘cracked’ about an inch, if it’s cold/ drafty, wind them up once you are in. My windows drag at the seal running up the screen frame, so that works for me. On 2), I have a new mohair hood and the ears get in the way as well. I firmly push (not slam) the door, keeping pressure on the handle as it connects, seems to do the trick and the problem is easing as the hood wears into the car.
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Waldi, thank you, I had sort of been getting to that point. When the stuff gets here I’ll look at the GB mount and rear mount carefully, I think if I organise those properly then I’ll be OK.
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DRD/ Waldi, thank, that’s great to know, I assume that you have to cut the single pipe connecting the manifold to the silencer then, by the length of the flexible pipe, obviously at the manifold end. I’ll check to see what the diameter of the Phoenix pipe is and buy the appropriate part. Thanks again.
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Just a thought, is it useful/ sensible to insert a flexible piece into the exhaust pipe just after the manifold? I’d welcome peoples thoughts.
Replacement hood
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Don Trimming for me, mohair, great product and fit.