Forgot your password?
Or sign in with one of these services
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted July 27
Hi she has new fuel in
I have no marks on pully so put paper plug into number 1 turned over slowly by hand plug poped out under compression. Then placed brass rod in number one and v slowly rotated untill vertical movement stopped marked pulley as Tdc. The router arm points slightly back from number 1 but not directly at it.
Hi one and half
Just rebuilt 4a can't get engine to fire.
Tdc on compression done good spark on all plugs firing order 1342, both fuel bowls on SU's have fuel, when put finger in main bodys feel wet with fuel. When turn car over on new battery nothing after 10 15 second crank. Tried start spray into still no fire all gaps on points and plugs good brand new. Rotary arm pointing at number 1 cylinder
Funnily tried first thing there was a slight cough on initial turn of key from cold Then nothing,
Run out of ideas
Posted April 5
OK thanks got it now cheers for your time
Just now, Phil Smith said:
Thank you Rob
Just had referb by Pete Cox not sure if I should use 2nd gear interlock as Pete has only replaced 3rd 4th interlock
Yes sorry interlock switches
Hi please could someone help have just installed my Jtype box into my 4a. I have wire harness from Moss, just want to confirm where the wire goes as the wiring diagram confused me. I belive the single yellow and purple wire attached to the selinod. The wire joins another yellow purple wire onto one spade not sure where that goes. There is then another double wire yellow and green onto another spade not sure where that goes. Two wires yellow and green and yellow and purple individual. Last single wire yellow and green with single push connector.
Three relays on box two on the top one on side each with twin spade connectors
Posted February 27
Hi I've got Tr4a 65 in reconstruction it has main beam dip button on floor happy with that. Light switch on column was missing so I've just purchased new old stock steering column switch that clicks up and down once (side lights?) should I have on off switch on dash, not really sure what setup for this 4a is.
Posted September 21, 2020
I have laycock tr6 J type gear box, trying to turn the main shaft but it turns slightly either way then stops against something. I can take out of gear and spin the propshaft end but main shaft again is locked. Put in gear can't turn propshsft end and can feel the movement on mainshaft but no turn. Have overdrive fitted, also had top plate off all looks good. Is it the overdrive unit stopping this via a clutch and how do I release cheers.????
Posted June 28, 2020
Hi if it helps just purchased two second hand crash pads off TRGB and they re-coverd them, one of the pads has the handle. They made an excellent job both french stitched. The two pads fitted great being original. Going to send me center H frame to get re-covered
Posted March 28, 2020
On a slightly different subject found my two studs to hold distributor housing were sheered off from the engine block we successfully drilled them out. Can anyone please tell me what size tap I need to re thred the holes. The studs have a larger thread into the block, thanks. Orderd 3/8ths UNC but these were to big, luckily they fit holes for manafold
Roger, Brenda many thanks engine looks great
Rebuilding my Tr4a confused with all the different posts and comments wether to keep the current crank case breather set up, Or look at oil catch can, can't see good diagram where the hoses connect from catch can. Can see one hose connects to rocker cover breather, but can't see where second hose connects to. Oil catch cans look quite expensive, any suggestions cheers
Posted October 5, 2019
Hi think there 16” the tyres only had a very thin tread layer for the salt flats
Ok cheers I’m replicating the Kas Kastner salt flat TR4a, I contacted him for more photos of his car which he kindly sent. His F GT had standard steel wheels. I will swap over the studs for the longer ones to take the steels thank.
Posted October 4, 2019
Hi I have a 65 TR4A with small wire wheel studs. Will these studs take the standard TR4 steel wheels, or do I have to change the studs for longer ones. I would like to swap around wire and steel wheels periodically if possible. Not keen on fitting spacers on long studs to take wire wheel hubs, enabling me to interchange the wheels.