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Stephen H

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Posts posted by Stephen H

  1. I followed John's advice and checked the points and adjusted to 15 thou. The gap was almost non existent and on lobe 4 there was no gap at all but just enough play in the shaft to create a gap. So after adjusting the points the car is running on all 6 and so much smother. So looks like a combination of worn bearings in the distributor shaft, worn lobe on plug 4 and badly adjusted points was the cause. 

    I think I'll enjoy what's left of the weather and book a slot with the distributor doctor as an over winter job. 

    Many thanks for all the advice much appreciated. 

    Cheers Stephen

  2. 3 minutes ago, Nigel Triumph said:

    Try changing the distributor cap in case there's tracking between HT leads. As mentioned above, this happened on my TR6 some years ago. It took me ages to track down the misfire but a new cap cured it instantly - a cheap fix.

    Nigel

    Hi Nigel

    I have tried changing the cap I get the same results with my old cap and a brand new one.

    Cheers Stephen

  3. 3 minutes ago, John L said:

    You could check the points gap at the number 4 lobe in the distributor compared to some of the others perhaps.

    Do you have a dwell meter, this is far better for setting points gap with a worn distributor, but I cannot remember what the dwell should be for the 6 cylinder, could somebody else advise the value needed pls.

    This is where an accuspark electronic unit will get over this problem. but general advise would be to send it off to the Distributor Doctor for a proper long term fix,

    You should still get a spark at idle even is the compression is wrong/low.

    John

    Hi John

    Thanks I have already emailed the Distributor Doctor to see about getting it rebuilt. I'd just like to be reasonably confident that it's the problem before I do so.  I'll have a look at the points gap on lobe 4 as you suggested. 

    I don't have a dwell meter it's not a process I'm familiar with so looks like something to do some research on. 

    Many thanks

    Stephen

  4. Hi Guys

    I checked a few things today. With a new spark plug in No4 HT lead held against the block I get no spark at idle, I start to get spark at 2000rpm. I've tried this with different HT leads, new plugs, a new cap and new rotor arm and seems to be consistent. I get no spark on No4 below 2000 rpm. 

    There is some small amount of play on the rotor arm but I'm not sure how much play is normal. I'm starting to wonder if this is related to the distributor.

    Any thoughts appreciated.

    Thanks Stephen

  5. 14 minutes ago, John L said:

    Could you not swop one the ignition wires and see if it follows, please only do one thing at a time, and put that part back on again. That's the only way to find what is actually going on.

    John

    Hi John

    Sure thing I'll give that a try.

    Cheers Stephen

  6. Hi Nigel

    I've just fitted new HT leads a couple of weeks ago as the lead on no 6 broke. With the colortune I don't see a spark on no 4 at idle. With the normal spark plug when I pull the HT lead off no4 I don't notice a difference to tick over, whilst I do if I pull the HT lead off the other cylinders. So my initial thought is an ignition problem but at the moment It doesn't feel like the plug or lead are at fault. I'll check the valve clearance tomorrow when she's cooled down. I do have spare rotor, caps, coils, condenser etc in the boot so will try swapping a few components around tomorrow. 

    I think I'll buy a compression tester as well.

    Cheers Stephen

  7. Hi Guys

    I've a 1972 US import converted to RHD running SU carbs. At idle no 4 isn't firing as the revs pick up it chimes in and then as the revs drop it stops firing again. I can see this happening using my colortune plug. The car is running standard points any ideas what might cause this would be appreciated.

    Cheers Stephen

  8. One of the fuses had blown. I have stripped out the rest of the column switches as the lighting one is melted as well. The horn wire doesn't look the worst by a long way but I guess I may never find the root cause. I'll start from fresh and test everything as I go. 

    @mhossack I may well replace the rear as well but I think I'll focus on getting the car running again for now maybe that will be a winter job. From what I can see the original conversion to RHD was done well, I see no cut off wires or extended wires so I think it must have had a new loom fitted at that point. Since then though I think a number of previous owner upgrades have compromised things. I'd already found a tidied up

    An old alarm system that wasn't working.

    2 Modern relays floating about wrapped in tape under the wiper motor.

    A SATNAV cigarette lighter charger soldered directly to the loom they didn't even cut the 12v socket of just soldered the nose of it to the loom.

    Loads of horrid blue scotch lock quick splice connectors that I've been removing and soldering properly.

    A conversion to push start again with a modern relay just floating about wrapped in tape under the dash and badly spliced into the loom.

    A CD player no longer wired in but evidence that is must have been at some point.

    I guess there was one more improvement that I hadn't come across. So a fresh start is probably not a bad thing in the end. I'm waiting to hear back from auto sparks to see if I can hold of a loom from them.

     

     

  9. 22 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

    Electric fans in my experience use a lot of current make sure they put in the right size wire as some need 30 amp rating?

    Bruce.

    Auto sparks do describe it as "4 wires added to the harness to supply heavy feed to fan and provision for thermostat" but I will ask them about it thanks. 

  10. 30 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

    Stephen,

    I know it may not be easy, but try to find out WHY the loom melted. They don’t just end up like that for no reason and the last thing you want is to destroy the new one as soon as you connect up to the battery.

    Having seen similar looms I know that everything melts together, but the first wire to melt usually ends up with the copper bit in the worst condition so see if you can identify where the overheating started, look at the colour and try to work out what it was connected to. Then check for a short circuit in the component.

    If you can’t identify the culprit wire you really do need to check all items to see if there is a problem. You may well be able to see discoloration or heat damage around a connector on some component.

    Good luck !

    Charlie.

    Thanks Charlie, I'll b starting my investigation later to see if I can work out what happened. 

  11. 10 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

    Also increase the gauge wire size to power the fuel pump to 4mm2!

    Bruce.

     I've a mechanical fuel pump as it's a CC car converted to RHD running twin SU carbs, so no electrical fuel pump for me to worry about. I do however have an ammeter and it looks like auto sparks do a loom for that. They also will add into the loom support for an electric fan which is nice as I have one those. 

  12. Gave the car a wash and wax yesterday and had a nice drive yesterday evening. I was woken at 7am this morning by the sound of a car horn on investigation it was my car in the garage so disconnected the battery. I thought I'd check on it later after visiting my parents for the first time since lock down, this is what I found.

    compressed1.thumb.jpg.44125178e84626994bd4ee7c4c5b9b37.jpg 

    compressed2.thumb.jpg.4ef51616e078c41c47e24d5ef79dae18.jpg

    Could have been a hell of a lot worse, so all in all I think I've been lucky.

    I'm in the market for a front loom if anyone has a good used one. Or a recommendation on the best supplier are the looms at the usual suspects Moss,Rimmers any good.

    Cheers Stephen

  13. 7 minutes ago, TR6_PI_1969 said:

    You are welcomed, by the way how is your rear ride height? As you can see on my white 69 car, it's quite high! Just to be curious, because I am thinking about changing to the green & red springs. 

    Illustration of too-much sagging-rear attached... :-D

    Regards William 

    triumph-tr6_6.jpg

    Hi William

    I can't measure the ride height at the moment as the car is on stands. This is a picture will hopefully give you an idea of the ride height.

    Regards Stephen

    DSC_3520_compressed.jpg

  14. 6 minutes ago, TR6_PI_1969 said:

    Hi Stephen, you can also refer to this topic 

    and I think your spring looks like the reference in the attached picture (green & red paintings).

    Regards William 

    Screenshot_20200511-175420.png

    Hi William

    Thanks that's very helpful on that basis I think I'm going to assume that they are standard springs and leave well enough alone then. 

    Many thanks

    Stephen

     

  15. Hi Guys

    Thanks for the replies. If someone had said that this spring was much much stiffer than a standard one I would be inclined to save my back when going over potholes and switch to a comfier riding one. 

    Maybe I best to go with the if it ain't broke don't fix it approach and continue with cleaning up the parts and surrounding chassis and replace the bushes.

    Cheers Stephen

  16. Hi Guys.

    I'm cleaning up the rear suspension and fitting new bushes at the moment. I wondered if this rear spring is a standard one? It's 285 mm long and the rod is about 13mm in diameter. The spring is marked with Green and Red paint. At some point in the cars past it's been fitted with Spax adjustable shocks and I wondered if stiffer springs have been added. If they are stiffer I'll probably put some standard ones back.

    Does anyone know what type of spring these are please.

    Thanks Stephen

     

    Image.15891394755111.jpg

  17. 1 hour ago, harlequin said:

    Rodger 

    My car has the U suffix as well I think it denotes that the car was built in  1972 or later and was left hand drive

    George

    My car also has the U suffix and it is a  June 1972 left hand drive car.

  18. 42 minutes ago, Richard Green 54 said:

    Hi Stephen,

    Thank you for the offer. If all else fails I might take you up on that.

    But firstly, what did you replace your motor with? Did you manage to find an elusive replacement or change it for something else?

    Regards,

    Richard

    Hi Richard

    I found a used motor on eBay  it needed a good clean up but worked. It was an identical looking Smiths motor, it had a different fan blade but bolted in place nicely. My resistor is shot so I've only one speed.

    There are a few on eBay at the moment this one looks the same as the one I got

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smiths-Motor-Fan-Overhauled-New-Brushes/202893155458?hash=item2f3d5fdc82:g:LU4AAOSwn~JeKaBb

    And other one

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-SMITHS-HEATER-MOTOR-FHM-4322/324060366970?hash=item4b7380c87a:g:~WgAAOSw63teNXbp

    I think mine cost a tenner so took a chance on it working which it did. 

    I've found the board just send me a private message if you'd like it.

    Cheers Stephen

    Photo 01-02-2020, 20 29 52_compressed.jpg

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