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Stephen H

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About Stephen H

  • Birthday 03/23/1968

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  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6

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  1. Mine mounted further back it's butted up against the rear shelf. There is a small tab on the rear shelf that it screws to. The lens points forward.
  2. Hi This is the light in my 1972 CC car
  3. I followed John's advice and checked the points and adjusted to 15 thou. The gap was almost non existent and on lobe 4 there was no gap at all but just enough play in the shaft to create a gap. So after adjusting the points the car is running on all 6 and so much smother. So looks like a combination of worn bearings in the distributor shaft, worn lobe on plug 4 and badly adjusted points was the cause. I think I'll enjoy what's left of the weather and book a slot with the distributor doctor as an over winter job. Many thanks for all the advice much appreciated. Cheers Stephen
  4. Hi Nigel I have tried changing the cap I get the same results with my old cap and a brand new one. Cheers Stephen
  5. Hi John Thanks I have already emailed the Distributor Doctor to see about getting it rebuilt. I'd just like to be reasonably confident that it's the problem before I do so. I'll have a look at the points gap on lobe 4 as you suggested. I don't have a dwell meter it's not a process I'm familiar with so looks like something to do some research on. Many thanks Stephen
  6. Hi Guys I checked a few things today. With a new spark plug in No4 HT lead held against the block I get no spark at idle, I start to get spark at 2000rpm. I've tried this with different HT leads, new plugs, a new cap and new rotor arm and seems to be consistent. I get no spark on No4 below 2000 rpm. There is some small amount of play on the rotor arm but I'm not sure how much play is normal. I'm starting to wonder if this is related to the distributor. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks Stephen
  7. Hi John Sure thing I'll give that a try. Cheers Stephen
  8. Hi Nigel I've just fitted new HT leads a couple of weeks ago as the lead on no 6 broke. With the colortune I don't see a spark on no 4 at idle. With the normal spark plug when I pull the HT lead off no4 I don't notice a difference to tick over, whilst I do if I pull the HT lead off the other cylinders. So my initial thought is an ignition problem but at the moment It doesn't feel like the plug or lead are at fault. I'll check the valve clearance tomorrow when she's cooled down. I do have spare rotor, caps, coils, condenser etc in the boot so will try swapping a few components around tomor
  9. Hi Guys I've a 1972 US import converted to RHD running SU carbs. At idle no 4 isn't firing as the revs pick up it chimes in and then as the revs drop it stops firing again. I can see this happening using my colortune plug. The car is running standard points any ideas what might cause this would be appreciated. Cheers Stephen
  10. Much more than twins
  11. One of the fuses had blown. I have stripped out the rest of the column switches as the lighting one is melted as well. The horn wire doesn't look the worst by a long way but I guess I may never find the root cause. I'll start from fresh and test everything as I go. @mhossack I may well replace the rear as well but I think I'll focus on getting the car running again for now maybe that will be a winter job. From what I can see the original conversion to RHD was done well, I see no cut off wires or extended wires so I think it must have had a new loom fitted at that point. Since then though
  12. Auto sparks do describe it as "4 wires added to the harness to supply heavy feed to fan and provision for thermostat" but I will ask them about it thanks.
  13. Thanks Charlie, I'll b starting my investigation later to see if I can work out what happened.
  14. I've a mechanical fuel pump as it's a CC car converted to RHD running twin SU carbs, so no electrical fuel pump for me to worry about. I do however have an ammeter and it looks like auto sparks do a loom for that. They also will add into the loom support for an electric fan which is nice as I have one those.
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