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Posts posted by Ocheye
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Sometimes difficult to tell the difference between a shimmy and a severe vibration.
Might be worth checking the propshaft and u/js.
Also wheel balance (if on wires, they may well have been balanced incorrectly by the tyre fitters if they haven't got the correct cones - I bought a set which could be borrowed. It turned out that mine were badly balanced) you may have lost a weight although swapping the tyres round would make a difference, I would imagine, unless it is a severe wheel wobble.
Good luck
Andy
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It might sound stupid but when we were checking mine out for a similar issue we discovered that the propshaft was on back to front!. On checking it out there was wear on the splines and we replaced it with a good secondhand one from John Morrison's loft. Loads better now.
I've also bought a set of wire wheel balancing cones as no local tyre fitters had them (Cumbria). Turns out that they were miles out of balance despite having been recently 'balanced'.
Andy
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14 hours ago, Bfg said:
^ This shows the present seat-belt geometry on Katie, my 4A. I might only assume the same arrangement would suit a TR4. The inertia reel was previously bolted to the sill, where the tail-end of the seat-belt also fastens, but it was in way of the seat moving back very far ..so I moved it to just above the step. Initially I had just drilled (10mm if I recall) & bolted through the inner wheelarch and large + thick backing plates ..and I feel that was more than adequate as the seat-belt loading through that fastening is only ever in shear.
Later on, I did stitch-weld those same plates in their same place under the wheel arch, just before repainting under those (for sake of rust deterrent), but I wouldn't have done so., had the trim not been taken out (to beat the front of wheelarch into a concave shape ..again so the seat might move even further back).
I've now removed the hood frame * ..as I've gone with the Surrey top. If I were to have a roll-over-bar then I'd use that for the seat-belt's shoulder mounting. I don't have one, and no will I.. but sometime, when I have the rear wing removed (for rust-preventative treatment), I'll most likely take the opportunity to move that seat-belt pivot point vertically upwards from the wheel-arch... to the very top edge of the body. That of course cannot be done where a folding hood frame need to land, but ergonomically it would be better if it were higher up.
Hope that helps,
Pete
* TR6 soft-top frame and the fabric hood is for sale should anyone need one.!
Thanks Pete
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I had a similar issue on the J type overdrive fitted to my 4. I gave it a good clean and new o rings and it is now working a treat!
Andy
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On 8/18/2022 at 8:25 PM, harlequin said:
I put a set of 3A instruments on here for a lady clearing her husbands TR parts, it was about a year ago but I don't think they sold. If of interest to you send me a PM and I will put you in contact.
George
PM sent
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On 8/20/2022 at 4:05 PM, Charlie D said:
Andy,
I know you are not going to mount your stalks on the transmission tunnel, but it was mentioned as a choice earlier and just incase anyone else is thinking of doing it that way here is a tip.
Make sure the bolts you use are not too long.
When I first drove my car after a rebuild I got the impression that the silencer was hitting the ground after going over bumps. A look underneath and I could see the witness marks on the propshaft.
As the car was going over bumps the back axle was going up, and of course so was the rear part of the propshaft.
It was fine on the flat, but over bumps it was just going high enough to lightly touch the propshaft and make a sound (The same sound as a silencer hitting bumps.)
You need long arms to hold a spanner on the nut inside the tunnel and a socket on the bolt inside the car to remove the bolt to cut it down.
Easier to check it before you tighten it up.Charlie.
Thanks for your words of wisdom, Charlie
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Hi all
Fitted the new seats this morning and can't speak too highly of the mounting plates supplied by Rich Crewe-Read that John Morrison kindly picked up for me on Saturday from Ambergate.
Not having driven with the new seats the jury is out as to whether or not I prefer them to the 4A seats that I had in before. My heart and eyes prefer the Triumph ones - I suspect my back and neck will prefer the Mazda ones!
One word of warning. Be sure that both runners are on the same part of the ratchet or they won't fit!
Andy
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Getting there at last. As I'm about to fit my new (to me) leather mx5 seats, it is time I changed from my static belts to inertia reel. 514/30 is my preference.
My TR4 has a hood and no rollover bar (at present). Does anyone have pics or schematics showing location of the reels and guides on a car of the same spec as mine?
It is obviously different if you have a surrey top or roll over bar as there is no concern over fouling the hood and the guides can be incorporated into the r/o bar
Andy
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John Morrison has very kindly done the mods to the runners and will be picking up a pair of brackets from Richard Crewe-Read this weekend so hopefully I will have the seats in next week. Next on the agenda is a pair of inertia reel belts and belt guides!
Onwards and upwards
Thanks to all for your help
Andy
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3 hours ago, rcreweread said:
Andy - there's quite a lot of helpful info on TR Traders website (https://www.trtrader.com/parts-lists/MX5-seat-brackets.htm )about how to modify the MX5 seat runners - it's not difficult.
Raising either the front or the back of the seat, if you need to for comfort, is accomplished by packing out the bracket mounting stud with appropriate washers to suit on top of the bracket - there's not much adjustment but usually enough - I did see a post some time ago from someone who used a stud extender to raise it even more.
I will be taking some seat runner conversion sets to Ambergate if anyone is interested ( £70 ) - however please note that Harry's kind comments about them in an earlier post was before he went to Specsavers, as the brackets are not painted although admittedly, they look as though they are - it's my amazing photographic techniques -as if!!!
Cheers Rich
Thanks Rich
John M will be picking up a set this weekend for me as per our phone call
Andy
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I bought this to protect my TR4 under my carport but stupidly didn't realise that it only opened at one end and therefore I couldn't drive through to my garage. It was secondhand and a bit grubby with a tiny repair to the clear vinyl which was repaired with clear gorilla tape. One of the fans was missing so I bought a replacement from Airflow. For some reason it doesn't appear to be working now (but was when I got it) so may just be a loose connection. The power supply works fine on the other fan so that isn't an issue. I think these retail at nearly £600 so my price of £200 plus carriage is very reasonable. The pic was from the PO as I had no room (other than the carport) to put it up.
Andy
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Hi All
Yesterday I took a trip to Castle Douglas to visit www.autolink.co.uk where I met Andrew Stott who supplied me with a very nice pair of MK2 MX5 seats. They are black leather and were from a ltd edition 'Jasper Conran' car which means they are Connolly hide with perforated panels. I am very pleased with them. The price was reasonable and he took my rather shabby cloth covered ones in part exchange. He has a large selection of seats and assorted covers stripped from seats. He even has newly covered ones in leather. More importantly, he was a great guy to deal with.
Before I make a decision on mountings, I notice that Rich suggests that we may want to add spacers to raise the front. I assume that the original MX5 floorpan was shaped rather than flat so I wonder how much the front should be raised to match Mazda's original.
I presume that I need to alter the rail at both ends and cut off the pointed pins
Any pointers would be welcome as it is a bit of a nightmare working through the various threads to glean the information I need
Cheers
Andy
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1 hour ago, ianc said:
I believe that John Morrison will be going to Ambergate.
As the Cumbria Group Leader, he must live somewhere up in your part of the world and will be taking one of Rich's bumpers northwards from Ambergate.
Ian Cornish
I don't think John is going
Andy
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1 hour ago, rcreweread said:
Andy - how about a set of the ones I do - sold a quite a few of these to other members with no complaints - attached link to my post in the "for Sale under £250 forum":
I could take to Ambergate if you are going, otherwise anyone else you know who might be going? Could they also fit a 4A front bumper in? See my post in "Social Scene" for explanation.
Cheers Rich
Thanks Rich
Having bought one of your radiator cowls I know they will be a good fit but they are a bit outside my budget. I will have a think, though, as they do look good. Not sure if anyone is going to Ambergate from up here but I will check
Andy
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Hi all
When I got my TR4 it had MX5 seats fitted though the runner brackets were a bit of a lash up!
I know that there are a number of firms doing adapter brackets plus the 'Technicalities' DIY ones. I have a chance of some nicer leather seats than the draylon ones I have so I would like to have a pair of decent brackets as a starting point. There are a number of threads scattered about in the Forums but I would like opinions as to the best option (without spending a fortune). I appreciate that there are some mods required to the MX5 runners.
I'm off to have a look at the seats tomorrow so would appreciate your input.
Regards
Andy
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12 minutes ago, stuart said:
You can change the glasses over though you might have to be careful refitting the bezels.
Stuart.
Thanks Stuart
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Hi
My grab handle and centre crash pad have been very poorly recovered by a PO so I'm seeking good ones or advice on recovering them properly. The drivers side appears to be new but it is difficult to weigh up which leathercloth would be a good match for its' grain and colour.
Andy
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I'm looking to buy or swap a set of domed glass instruments for early TR4 for my later flat glass ones in good order.
I can probably put domed glass on my Speedo and Tacho so they are less important
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On 5/10/2022 at 2:20 PM, Ocheye said:
Well, sadly, the solenoid service has not done the trick.
Dave Twigger at Overdrive Spares has suggested that, because the symptoms are relatively mild, it could indicate that the oil pressure in the overdrive may not be helping the cone clutch engage sufficiently and he has sent me some shims for the pressure relief valve.
I hope that the use of EP90 hasn't caused contamination of the friction surfaces as, apparently, Laycock specifically stated that it is undesirable whereas Triumph recommended it for the gearbox. A bit tricky to heed the advice from both organisations!
Hey ho, we'll keep plugging away
Andy
I may have jumped the gun, perhaps it needed to 'bed in', but I have covered some 270 miles over some pretty demanding terrain and all seems to be as it should be though I haven't had a chance to fit the shims as yet.
Andy
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Well, sadly, the solenoid service has not done the trick.
Dave Twigger at Overdrive Spares has suggested that, because the symptoms are relatively mild, it could indicate that the oil pressure in the overdrive may not be helping the cone clutch engage sufficiently and he has sent me some shims for the pressure relief valve.
I hope that the use of EP90 hasn't caused contamination of the friction surfaces as, apparently, Laycock specifically stated that it is undesirable whereas Triumph recommended it for the gearbox. A bit tricky to heed the advice from both organisations!
Hey ho, we'll keep plugging away
Andy
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Is my one any good for you John? Remember we took it of because of the notorious Carlisle Speed humps. It is 5/8"
Andy
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On 5/5/2022 at 6:58 PM, Lebro said:
Can most highly recommend classiccarleds.co.uk
Bob
+1
Paint matching.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I had mine scanned to make up an aerosol. The match is dreadful. Think I'll go for a full respray one day.