Michael Mckiernan
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Posts posted by Michael Mckiernan
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On 1/18/2024 at 5:55 PM, Cew said:
I had a similar problem with a "new" (Chinese, Lucas boxed) rotor arm about ten years ago, changed to a Distributor Doctor one, no problems since.
P.S. Had the same thing with the Bentley.
Same as that !!
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Been driving my TR6 as a daily driver since i bought it 4 years ago.
Got to say the more i drive it the better it gets.
Mick..
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Hi Dave , i had a similar problem last year.
Turned out to be the Accuspark rotor arm , only 1 1/2 years old and 1500 miles.
AA patrol guy took the coil lead out of the dizzy cap and held it just above the center of the rotor arm.,
i cranked the engine and low and behold a nice big spark jumped the gap meaning the rotor arm was going to earth.
Never seen that test done before and i have been in the motor-trade 50 years
Every days a school day.
Hope you find the problem and let us know
Regards
Mick
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On 3/11/2023 at 9:37 PM, Mike C said:
My injector lines have the cylinder numbers stamped on the square headed connectors. I like to preserve the condition of those injector nuts and I find a 1/4 W spanner the best fit on the body and a 15mm on the connector line.
Australia Post is sensitive to shipping items smelling of petrol, so I wrap injectors and MU components in an old towel prior to shipping.
I had the same problem with sending petrol parts in the post.
Got round it by putting the bits in Doggy Poo Bags the ones with a fragrance
Good luck
Mick..
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Hi Richard , k&n 2009 lots of people on here have them fitted.
And your are correct the filter should be hanging down.
Hope this helps
Mick..
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Hi David , have you checked that you still have 12v at the coil when the engine is turning over ?
Possible that the feed drops out when you crank it over.
Mick
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Just a thought but try swapping it for one of the other injectors ,
see if the fault is actually the injector or the delivery side.
Good luck
Mick.
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Hi all , i would like to replace the Dowty Washers on no 2 & 5 outlets on the M.U.
Does anyone know the size ?
I don't want to go to the usual suspects as i would like to use Viton in a stainless housing.
Any help much appreciated.
Mick..
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Hi Richard , much easier to " blow out " the pistons with a compressor .
But in a pinch the bleed nipple can be replaced with a grease nipple ,
pumping grease in will also push the piston out.
Bit messy but does work.
Also if there is any corrosion on the chrome on the pistons they most be replaced
or they will tear up your new seals.
Mick.
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On 2/15/2022 at 11:33 AM, Richard Pope said:
By far the best place to get a battery is from https://www.tayna.co.uk/
Used them many times and really good.
Great company to deal with . I have bought quite a lot from them over the last few years.
Delivered to your door .
Usually the next day...
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Andy , do you need it for the high pressure side ?
I might have a bit of 225psi Gates R14 kicking about , i will check tomorrow morning for you.
Mick.
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Hi Stuart , the red rotor was fitted along with a set of plugs and a dizzy cap just before i bought it 3 years ago ,
so for a " rubbish " product i should count myself lucky.
The Distributor Doc's have as you say DD And made in England on them also got a new cap as not sure of the quality
of the old one.
The DD cap has lovely brass contacts as apposed to the aluminum type that was fitted.
Cheers Mick.
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1 hour ago, Tim D. said:
It think it is more that the rotor arm insulation breaks down when hot.
I thought that as well, so to be check when i got back yesterday from the run
i switched back to to original rotor ( which was stone cold ) and the problem was there straight away .
Just to add it was a red rotor arm fitted and reasonably new, but not a D.D one .
Mick.
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Hi all , just had a strange breakdown !
Not driven my TR6 for about 7 weeks due to a new hip and the rotten weather,
so lovely day Tuesday set of for a spin and a coffee , but fuel first .
Petrol station 1.5 miles away almost didn't make it but thought i might be lower on fuel than i thought.
Filled up with £40 of esso 99 octane as usual but the car would not start.
Anyway pushed it off the pumps gave it 10 mins and it fired up but would not run cleanly , seemed as if the choke on the metering unit was stuck on ,
but it wasn't . Long story short checked injectors , plugs , and connections but to no avail so gave up and called the RAC.
Mechanic turns up we start engine as its cold leave it to warm up and it cuts out as soon as you try to drive away.
So he pulls off the distributor cap and we put the coil lead to the center of the rotor arm and it goes to earth , not ideal !!!
Buy a rotor arm from local factor and its a black one with a rivet and that's even worse.
By this time it's stone cold and we get it going and make it home 4 hrs later.
Contacted Martin ( distributor doctor ) and he sent me out a new rotor arm and cap , just fitted and done 10 miles running lovely again.
never would have thought that a faulty rotor arm would give you those sort or symptoms , but when you think about it the drop in spark was ok to burn the fuel when cold
but fowled the plugs when hot.
Every day's a school day .
All the best Mick
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15 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:
+1 for bash the socket on with a hammer, the nuts are toast anyway, if necessary use a bigger hammer!!
Cheers Rob
+1 Spent years knocking on sockets over nuts that were either swollen or damaged ..
Mick
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20 hours ago, graeme said:
I always use a Fram PH3600 or TG3600, which seems to be a popular filter(Ford/Mazda/Jaguar) and easily available.
Cheers
Graeme
If you have a american / hot rod shop near you it's worth giving them a call.
The Fram PH3600 AND TG3600 fits lots of american engines also if they are getting spares sent over they might
do a deal on a bulk buy.
I get a mate to bring over 2 or 3 when he travels for work , cost in the USA about £ 4.oo each
Cheapest i have seen here is £ 13.50 . Great filter though.
Mick.
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40 minutes ago, HSM said:
Try a Sytec filter from Merlin Motor Sport.
Harvey
+1 Good filters , nice guys to deal with
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My TRW Master Cyl had a slightly thinner mounting flange ,
this closed the gap up on the servo push rod and as the brakes got hot the front brakes jammed on
Lots of stuff on here about M/C faults , whats your problem.
Mick..
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Just got back from a fantastic Revival . Looking forward to the MM .
We will come over to the pits for a chat , maybe Josh can stick it on pole again !!
All the best Mick.
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46 minutes ago, stuart said:
Giant wingnut?
Stuart.
Mick
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We are going ...
Up on Saturday staying in a local B & B.
Show Sunday then back home , well that's the plan
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Well done Ian.
Great that you let us know the outcome , enjoy the trip home.
Mick.
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Ian , is the engine missing on all the cylinders ?
Run the car then pull off each plug lead in turn , you should get a drop in rpm roughly the same on them all.
At the moment it could be anything ( lead breaking down/ injector spray "above" tickover/ tight tappet )
If its on one cylinder you can swap bits over to see if it moves the miss.
Good luck
Mick
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Rob's got it , move the brown to the next double terminal
on the left.
Mick
New battery...
in TR6 Forum
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