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  1. Roger, Many thanks for your kind offer of assistance, which I'd be delighted to take up, given that I am still a TR novice only having had my TR6 for a couple of years, and I'm finding problems that built up over time and were not addressed by PO. Ordinarily I would like to work alongside you and learn from those of you who are much more experienced on the forum, but unfortunately, I am shielding a family member with COVID. But I would still be very happy to order the lip seals and I could drop the top cover assembly round to you for your machining expertise if that would be ok?
  2. Roger, Many thanks, and many apologies for my belated reply, I have been tied up recently on a range of unexpected family business, so this has had to take a backseat. Anyway, today I have finally got round to taking the tunnel off the gearbox, to find that I do indeed have a significant amount of oil being supplied from the selector rods (see picture) which would suggest that I have selector rod seal problems. You mentioned that dismantling needs to be done in a specific sequence - I assume this the detail you shared on another thread with Z320 (Marco from Stuttgart) with detai
  3. Roger, Many thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately I didn't get to it as planned, but hope to have another crack this weekend. In the meantime, having not opened up the top cover, you mention 'O' rings may be the problem, when I get inside, which I will certainly check. Also, could you enlarge on fitting of 3/4 x 1/2 lip seals - Where do these fit, and where can I source these if needed? Thanks again Josh
  4. I have been under my car this weekend checking out two problems:- 1) An oil leak on my 1974 TR6. 2) Odometer working intermittently, whereas the speedo continues to work normally. 1) The oil leak My initial investigations showed the oil to be coming from somewhere around the J-type Overdrive, possibly the angle drive for the speedo takeoff. I believe the angle drive may be part of the cause of the oil leak. The Angle drive appears to have a relatively large amount of movement on the joint below the collar which screws into the overdrive, which I would not expect.
  5. Josh

    TR6 not starting

    Just a brief update to thank Bruce for his helping in person to identify and fix this issue, which turned out to be an electrical supply/wiring issue from the ignition switch. So I was seeing zero volts being delivered to the LT side of the coil. Regards Josh
  6. Josh

    TR6 not starting

    Thanks to you all for your helpful suggestions. I have comnbined Tim's and Roger's suggestions and connected another battery from another running car. I then turned the car over for 1.5-2 minutes with no response from the engine. I then removed the distributor cap and turned over again to find no spark being generated at the (new) set of contact breaker. Additionally the starter motor started to smoke while the car was turning over. I am therefore thinking I may at least have a starter motor problem. I now need to do some further investigations to try to isolate the reason wh
  7. I’ve just this week joined the TR-Register. I am having problems starting my 1974 TR6, which I have had for a couple of years, which has always struggled to start from cold (original starter motor, not hi-torque). It had recently started to misfire occassionally which progressed to misfiring badly just over a month ago. I briefly checked plugs, and electrics, which all appeared to be fine. So I then moved my attentions to checking fuel supply, specifically injectors, to find one of the injectors had disassembled itself, but all parts were still intact inside. I removed all injec
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