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Darranh

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  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    1963 TR4

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  1. Thanks. The vibration is way more significant than a wheel, if I drive though it say 65 mph it's still there but less pronounced. It's felt through the entire car - rather violent compared to a wheel imbalance. Into neutral and it's doesn't disappear nor a quick depress of clutch. Will get under the car the car and start looking this weekend. It had a full body off restoration 20 years ago and I'm the second owner since then, worth checking the drive assembly over as it's frustrating that the vibration coincides at highway cruising speed so much that I can't safely drive it at that spee
  2. Hi, I've a '63 TR4 and at around 55-60 mph (NZ speed limit) I get a significant vibration. Reading the forum the culprit appears to be the propshaft. i did read that the orientation of the prop can affect the vibration. Haven't a clue how... Mine has the short end to the diff. Am I right in thinking it should be the other way round? If mine is back to front how much effort is required to get the prop out and in its correct orientation. Ideally I don't want to remove the gearbox cover and interior. Any top tips apppreciated plus an estimate of time as wanting to do the job between oth
  3. Thanks Opie and Tom and yes I do have a combination of o-rings. Cork on one and rubber on the other. The rubber 'choke' is the tricky one. Hopefully the rebuild solves it. Still waiting for the parts to come...
  4. Many Thanks for the extra info and insights - very useful. Re the fast idle cam - that was intentional as I was fitting a new serrated washer at the time as the old one had fallen off, you can see it danglining at the other end! I still need to get the proper choke linkage but I can now confirm that with some minor adjustments the engine fires first time and the choke does actually work. Still requires some effort to pull out but much better now. When I do get a new choke linkage that will solve the uneven balance between the two carbs and hopefully will ensure that the jets move back to
  5. Likewise on my 71 Herald 13/60. The plastic bag was on the inside. They do virtually no good for sound insulation. The contents are light weight, they settle to the bottom of the bag and ideally need to be in contact with the underside of the tunnel. On my TR4 to reduce noise vibration and harshness I fitted mass load vinyl to the fibreglass tunnel (and the rest of the floor pan and back of fuel tank) and then waterproof foam to the outside before fitting the loop pile carpet. Works a treat keeping the high frequency mechanical noise out of the interior.
  6. Thanks Tom, that's my intention for the Christmas holidays to do a full strip down and rebuild. Will add the adjustable linkage. I did try the homemade rod by previous owner(s) in a different position but no success as no adjustment... hopefully if I order the parts now then they will be here in 6-8 weeks. Joys of living far away from the main suppliers. Probably go for Burlen rather than Moss or Rimmer or eBay?
  7. Thanks Stef - that's a very good explanation - plus this article too - https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/2014/03/30/su-carburetor-rebuild-h-6/ I've still got some free movement of the jets for the fast idle - will have a bit more of a play with the linkages to understand fully how they all work together - plus ways of making it easier pulling the choke in the first place.
  8. That's what I thought. There's a considerable amount of slack in the system. Is it supposed to be sloppy on the linkages or nice and tight? I've nothing to compare it too so just took up all the slack in the cable. Still a good effort to pull the jets down though. Thoughts anyone?
  9. Thanks. I ended up stripping the carbs yesterday and then found I need new jet washers and probably fuel line too as they're a bit hard. Ordered some new parts and put it all back together for the time being with no leaks. Took up all the play with the cable and back off the fast idle cam too. Anyway first time ever that I've been able to pull the choke cable out fully ( still a struggle) and hey presto started first time. Now to get the jets back to normal without having to push them back up with my hand. Hopefully new rubber will address that.
  10. Hi, I've always had bad cold starting problems. Problem is I've got loads of loose connections in the choke linkages. So when I pull the choke there's a lot of travel before the jets start to drop. The rear jet only drops a fraction compared to the front. Is the interconnection rod in the right place? Should it be in the upper to add more leavarge. I've tried to find some pictures of the linkage connections just in case there's something amiss. Plus it requires a considerable pull on the cable. I've got a twisted wire inner cable. Jets move freely in the assembly and are both centred
  11. More importantly I've just gained an extra 2" of ground clearance. Yet to give it a roadtest to see what difference it makes, if any... thanks for the advice.
  12. Thanks everyone. Although I do drive it in a spirited manner I certainly don't push it to its limits. Anti roll bar comes off today. I'll keep it in my parts bin. it will no doubt improve the front end slightly for our slightly uneven roads down here. cheers Darran
  13. I'm doing some minor detailing on my TR4 and I've noticed the mounts for the anti roll bar (9/16 diameter) appear to not fit correctly. Looks like both have grounded and bent the fitting brackets as they are the lowest point on the front of the car. Questions - should I simply ditch the roll bar and revert to standard handling, which then improves the clearance (now critical as Christchurch City Council put a very steep kerb outside my drive)? Assume it's bent and straighten the brackets? Or simply clean up with new paint etc? I've no idea what they are supposed to look like and the purp
  14. checks out the Weg's garage video (useful 'resource' for other trouble shooting issues too.
  15. Ditto. I did the same and replaced all the bulbs on my TR4 including the headlamps. I think I've got a dodgy earth with the indicator bulb in the dash which makes it flicker all the time. Anyone else experienced this? You'll certainly noticed the difference with the dash at night. You can actually read the dials now!
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