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SpeedFreak

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Posts posted by SpeedFreak


  1. Hi John, thanks for the comment, however, I do not find the search engine to be very helpful, maybe its me, but the thread it took me too was about general wiring discrepancies not dipswitch relevant. Have I missed something here ?

    Regards.

    Richard..


  2. Please forgive me if this topic has already been posted, I don't have time ( Im lazy really ) to read through them all.

    If like me you hate the inconvenient at best and downright dangerous at worst, foot dip switch, here is a solution which I much prefer.

    Remove said dip switch. Transfer the three wires to a VW Beetle / T2 Van etc. Headlamp relay, available new on flea bay or VW garages

    Blue to relay term. 56,   Blue/White to term. 56a,   Blue/Red to term. 56b. This leaves two terminals, 30 and S, 30 needs a new wire run up to the purple feed for the existing headlamp flasher  Brown wire, which should be disconnected, as should the existing Blue/White wire from the switch. The brown wire from the switch should now be extended and taken to a suitable earth point and a new wire run from the Blue/White wire from the switch  down to the relay term. S

    The relay should be secured to the scuttle or side panel. I used a Mehle relay which has a small spring clip and I used this to clip the relay on to the cable sucuring tab that is convenientlylocated above the old dip switch.

    This clever little relay now works as follows :-  lights off or in sidelights only, any pull on the flasher switch does just that. Headlights switched on, each successive pull on the flasher switch alternates between main and dip, Your foot is now free to oparate the clutch when required without dazzling the unfortunate who happens round the corner during your gearchange.

    I hope this is clear, if you are interested and have any questions I will try to help.

    Richard..


  3. Thank you for the heads up Alan. This will probably bring shrieks of condemnation, but mine had slack anyway so would have needed a new shaft, so I put four welds two either side of the fork, no slack now and yes I realise that to do any future work will require cutting the shaft.

    Richard..


  4. Can anyone advise me as to does the TR6 engine gearbox assy need or use dowels for location as there are suitable holes ? but mine didn't have any when separated .

    Thanks

    Richard..


  5. Good luck Richard, the worst bit for me was getting at the three nuts holding the heater assy, you can see them okay but getting a spanner on them is tricky to say the least. I had the engine and gearbox out at the time so had plenty of access, not that I am suggesting this is necessary

    If you need any heat resistant sleeving, I had to buy a metre to get 150 mm so have plenty, let me know if you need any and I will post you some.

    Richard..


  6. I had the exact same problem, it turns out to be typical poor design. the wiring for the motor inside the heater box runs too close to the low speed resistor, which generates high temperature when in circuit , i.e. low speed fan, This heats the insulation which can then sag and short out on the casing.

    Solution i'm afraid is removal of the heater, repair of the wire and I strongly suggest some heat resistant tubing to cover said wire.

    Good Luck

    Richard..


  7. On 11/28/2019 at 10:00 AM, JochemsTR said:

    Measure cam lift across and spark timing. Or do you want to replace the cam?

    Jochem

    Good morning Jochem if you are still following,

    My woes get worse, using a dial gauge I measured the cam lift as 21.65mm which i think is well below standard, maybe this indicates a regrind ?.

    Any thoughts ?

    Richard..


  8. I will keep you posted Nigel, it won’t happen overnight as it now looks like I will take the whole drivetrain out as I also have an overdrive to go on.

    The efi will use CP type throttle bodies with the injectors in the original places and the distribution manifold fitted where the original mechanical fuel pump was so as to retain a near original look, I have nearly everything ready except an air filter can.

    Richard..


  9. Hi Darren and Peter W,   Seems I have started a separate  new topic ( can of worms ) so here goes.

    Prior to 1970 U.S. and of course U.K. engines were tested to SAE Gross ( J245 ) standards, this is without ancilliaries such as water pump, alternator/generator, fan, fan belt, air cleaner, restrictive exhausts etc. so was an unrealistic Gross output under ideal conditions.

    After about 1972 engines were tested to SAE Net ( J1349 ) standards that aligned more closely to current DIN standards i.e. with all ancilliaries fitted and corrected for Temp, Pressure etc.

    The confusion over the conversion factor seems to be that SAE Horsepower is defined as 740 Watts and Din PS is I think more like 736 Watts ( I stand to be corrected ).

    As an aside, I wanted an engine powered alternator for boat use so I fitted a 50 amp alternator to a small generator engine ( 3-5 hp probably ) direct drive, connected it up started the engine switched on and the engine stalled immediately, another bright idea down the drain, but it does show the drain on HP from such ancilliaries.

    Thank you all but I still do not know what might be going on in my engine so has anyone seen my set of AF spanners? and thank you Jochem I will check cam lift asap.


  10. Yes Jochem, correct head for a US car, to get back to my original question, I know the engine has been rebuilt and I am sure that the power output is nearer 120 bhp compared to early SAE standards, look at the torque figure 149 compared to 132 as factory spec. I just want to know if anything else might have been done before I wade in with my spanner’s and hammer ?

    thanks for you interest .


  11. My understanding is 15 to 20 % we are talking early SAE, I am sorry I don’t recall the SAE number, I will look them up later.

    Under the early SAE regime engines were tested on a dynamometer with short exhaust stubs, no alternator/ dynamo, no cooling fan and possibly no water pump or fan belt, that is worth more than 2% ( I think you are confusing the latest SAE which is more in line with DIN ).

    I hope I am not adding confusion out there ?

    Thank you for your interest.


  12. Nigel and Jochem thank you for your input. I am sure that I am in danger or trying to teach my grandmother to suck eggs, however, from what I have been able to find on the internet and forums the question of h.p. has not been satisfactorily defined.

    I am of an age where I used to see today’s “classic cars” in the showrooms new. Prior to 1970/1972 British cars were rated in SAE HP as DIN had not been introduced to the UK. As I am sure you know the difference between the two is significant so I am not unhappy with 103 DIN hp at the moment from a carb car that was originally rated as 105 hp ( SAE ?) and your comment Nigel about CP and in fact CR cars makes sense to me as CR cars rated to SAE and now tested to DIN makes sense and CP cars we’re probably tested according to DIN which had been accepted by 1973. 

    I await thoughts on the matter !


  13. Thanks for the interest Jochems and Nigel, in answer to both of you, yes I am aware of the problems with rolling road data, however, I am using this as a start point before modifications including EFI. And I want to know what I am starting with.

    Jochems, the head thickness measured by vernier on the car is close to 85mm. I hope this helps, I will try to post the r.r. graph soon but the reading was 103 hp. 149 f lbs.@ 4665 & 2685 rpm respectively.

    Richard..


  14. I am new to TR6's always lusted after one, now bought one, so here goes.

    I imported a good looking TR6 from the U.S.A.  which has had a recent engine rebuild, looks professional, nice coat of paint all over, yes I know thats no indication in itself, however , a rough finish is an indication of lack of attention to detail.

    A recent visit to the rolling road showed that it has 103BHP at the engine, now I assume that in 1970 this would have been SAE. The rolling road figure is DIN so that should be worth + 15 to 20%

    The compression figures are 185PSI. average with all well within 10% of each other. and yes I have checked the guage and they were taken cold at WOT.

    Should I assume ( hope ) that this has had other work i.e. cam replacement ?

    Any help, comments, would be greatfully recieved as I am new to the forum.

    Richard..

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