Jump to content

mackev

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About mackev

Recent Profile Visitors

140 profile views
  1. Thanks everyone, I will not be gardening tomorrow as planned, my head will be down in the footwell or ordering the voltage stabiliser, Cheers
  2. I had a problem with the electrics on my TR4, the overdrive was not working. A local man came at the weekend and managed to fix it, the problem being a wiring fault, yes it's all working now, he is very helpful. However, when repairing the overdrive wiring he managed to put a charge/spark through the dash with a live wire, and now the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge do not work. I had a problem with the Amp meter once before and I bought a new one. But it sticks out like a sore thumb, it is too nice and bright and shinny. Instead of buying new gauges, is there a company you could recommend that can repair the old ones. I would be very grateful for any help here. My Dad used to say 'do a job and make a job' when he worked on his car. How right he was.
  3. Hi Christine, I'm not so good at anything electrical, however I think the best way forward and to relive any problems is to go with Roger H suggestion. I live in a relatively hotter climate, in the winter I run the engine a little bit hotter(-with a Kenlowe-)and then change the thermostate for something a bit cooler in the summer to compensate for getting stuck in traffic. Possibly the best way for you, if you are still working on the car is to use a proper Kenlow variable switch. it is roughly the same as you have but as RobH states tthe honewell is working in reverse. Good luck and happy motoring
  4. Thanks John, another worry removed from my head, ( my head, not the cylinder head) - You are a Star. K J
  5. Thank again chaps, all very useful information indeed. I have a good contact in the local town who is used to rebuilding engines, I had a very long chat with him and with the proper measurements, he will rebuild the engine for me. He also wants me to supply all the parts as well. So I have made progress there, and he understood that the liners should be pround of the cylinder, which we think they are not. Plus he has already rebuilt a TR engine for another english chap. Whilst writing could someone advise me on what the thickness should be on a standard cylinder head? Mine is not standard and measures 83 mm, does that sound right ? I'm planning to take the engine out during January, so I will keep in touch with you all and let you know my progress. and when I have a few moments to spare I will check the compression again. Where would I be without all your input, Thanks again
  6. Thank chaps, I'm getting a better idea as to what is going on now. Sorry for the xxx and the xxx I'm going to get that information as soon as I can. I'm also forgetting the possibilty of using a Massey F. block from a tractor, Thx Charlie D. As for the knocking, I'm seriously considering taking the engine out and having a good measure up and try to get an idea of what is really wrong. The low compression situation I understand now, as well due to not protruding of the liners, 3 - 5 Thou I'm not in any hurry, but please if you think of anything else relevant. I would be so grateful Cheers KJ
  7. Thanks for the information everyone, I need a little bit more time to digest what you all wrote, but still thank you. in relation to the location of myself and the car, we are in Moissac, 70 clicks away from Toulouse in South West France. So a chap rebuilt the engine and I supplied all the parts mainly from Moss in London and Revington as well. I collected them personally. However, there was a slight fissure between two valves. It was there for some time as my local TR4 specialist (lived in Paris then) had already pointed it out to me 10 years before. It never affected the performance and there was no sign of water or an oil mixture and I changed the oil every year, always, even though I only covered about 3000 clicks a year. Then recently during an oil change, I had a the deded mix that I was not looking forward to, water in the oil sump. so with the wisdon of the engine builder we deciided to use a product that came from the USA to repair leaks. The mechanic said that someone he knew had used it on his VW camper and has covered over 6000 klms with it. So I gave it a try and it worked. But, this is where I have not the confidence in the engine and the car . The TR4 has stayed in my garage since, I have only covered about 500 clicks in 3 years!. The car has a 4 into one manifold, 2 twin choke Webers and a cam to go with it. The cylinder head is upto racing standards as well. This is how I bought the car 17 Years ago. I feel now that all is not well, as I have a knocking sound that I cannot decipher, and I'm paranoid I could damage the engine permanently if I keep using it, as I use it with all its potential, supposed to have 130 bhp. I'm a old Modified saloon car racer So a friend of mine had a look at some photos I sent him, (he worked at Cosworth as an engine builder many years ago) and said that the liners should be (some- thousands of an inch above the surface of the block and they are not. The pistons at TDC, and the liners are all flush with the block ! I would now like to sell the car and I cannot - in my mind - sell it knowing it has a potential problem. So I have acquired a new cylinder head and it has been tested and it's good. If I'm selling I would like to give the potential buyer the option of a new stand by engine, or even install the propsed new engine back in as standard. I will definately sleep better at nights. Then Problem 2: The head has been ground down so far it is only XXX thick. the new head is XXX thick an enormous difference. The compression figures shown, 125 for each cylinder, however I will revert with that (actual)information tomorrow, when I'm absolutely sure, together with the thickness of the 2 cylinder heads Thank you so much for listening and thank for reading the long winded text, so tomorrow I will write again with thos missing details. BTW a petrol Massey F. engine situated in the Tractor cost between 500€ and 1000€ and as I have a large garden, if I remove the engine and box the chasis etc etc can be a talking point in my garden. BTW the 500€ model is presentable and the only problem seems to be the starter motor is missing and I have one in my garage. Say what you like I'm open for any critism and any helpbyou can offer would be great. Be Bold and tell me what you really think KJ
  8. So after having my TR4 engine rebuilt by a 'professional' 5 years ago it seems that I'm in a sutation that I lack confidence in the work that was carried out. My thinking is that, money permitting I might buy an old engine from a tractor an slowly have it rebuilt. I have an tested cylinder head and lots of bit and pieces around me; I have looked locally and there are plenty of massey furguson petrol tractors around for sale, but I do not have enough knowlege to know what I'm looking for For example what date should I be looking at, also is there a series number of a tractor, or a particular type of engine. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance
  9. Yes, just the standard set up, but new master cylinder and new pads and calipers to the front and aeroquipe hoses to the calipers all round I will be grateful for any further information that may be useful Thanks again, Mac
  10. Good Morning every one. Thank you all so much. I've been away and got back yesterday. I'm so pleased with the responce. At least I have a selection of idea. The first will be the 24 hours of push to the solid pedal. I will keep evryone posted. I think that the rear drums would be the second activity, although that sounds a bit pessimistic, them what do you think about re installing the old master cylinder ? Once again thanks, I will keep you posted on the progress I make. Mackev
  11. Hello to all the members, A sorry situation considering the weather, I cannot take a chance and use the car No matter how many times we bleed the brakes we still have a soft pedal. After the second application in succession of the brake pedal it's perfect. Do you think the new Master cylinder could be faulty ?. Before the overhaul of the system they were fine. Even paying a garage, could not improve them Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance
  12. mackev

    Cylinder head

    Hi There what was the outcome of the cylinder head, was it useable after all the bead blasting an a molasses solution ? Rgds K J
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.