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Andy303

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About Andy303

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  • Location
    Chardon, Ohio USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1967 TR4A SRA
    2015 Mini Cooper S

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  1. Nice Doretti, Chassis TS5666, was offered recently on Bring a Trailer: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/hs6-carb-linkage-questions.1458161.1458564/#msg-1458564 Bid to $93,000 but no sale.
  2. You can get a clue from how Triumph designed the TR250 intake manifold. The PCV screwed into the top of a lump on the manifold with another port for the brake servo in close proximity. That would imply they were not too worried about mingling the vacuum sources with regard to contamination. The servo works by vacuum at the manifold - the servo is not doing any of the "sucking" per se. But then they did use two separate ports and not a common tee. They did however use a tee-like banjo fitting for the servo take-off and a funky distributor retard mechanism. That might serve but they can only be found as used parts.
  3. That looks like the rear marker lamp found on the TR250/TR5. They only come in red I think.
  4. Andy303

    Headrests

    Chris: I was faced with the same issue, however my car came with incorrect seats taken from a TR250 I decided not to modify them as they are too valuable to change. Instead I opted to go with late TR6 seats, post-73 with removable headrests. They also recline very nicely and have the advantage of bolting right in. I had new seat covers made by John Skinner and they turned out extremely nice IMHO. The seat has horizontal pleats with perforated leather facing which may be off-putting for some. As to the original question it seems to me that the brackets with rollers that attach the headrests to the TR6 seat could be removed and welded to the square section frame of the TR4A seat back. that would require sourcing a set of derelict seats for the brackets. Headrest assemblies are sold by the majors and are easy to come by. The seat covers would need a minimum of modification I would think. You could install the chrome grommets where the heat rest post passed through the top. I've attached some photos of my TR6 seats and some pictures I have found showing the headrest brackets on the TR6 seat frame for reference. Another Andy
  5. Curious, where these the "standard" type or the uprated versions (tuffrited, drain hole) offered by Revington and others?
  6. The Mikuni HSR is an refinement of the classic motorcycle carb. The old Amal, Bing, Mikuni carbs found your typical bike have an air valve to vary the venturi size and and a metering needle and main jet similar to the SU but rely on the throttle cable to raise and lower the valve, which is spring loaded, instead of engine vacuum which varies with RPM. The HSR uses a vertical slide instead of the old style round air valve. IMHO the SU design and operation is more elegant in principle as it works with fewer moving parts and does not require separate pilot jets or an accelerator pump.
  7. Mine is exactly like Jim's and Steve's pictured above. Stuart your spacer block looks the earlier TR4 type with the mounting flange offset to one side and was originally mounted withe the flange to the front to accommodate the TR4 shock link. The SPC lists those type of spacer as RH and LH with different parts numbers, so they must be "handed", whereas there is only one type listed for the TR4A SRA. That spacer has the flange in the center and is interchangeable either side. The mounting plate or perch on the bottom of your axle tube looks like a nice thick U-channel, much more substantial than the one on my car and others I have seen elsewhere. Perhaps your axle was from a TR4 modified to work with the TR4A? Dare I ask if your VIN starts with CT or CTC?
  8. Regarding torque steer, rear twitch, or yaw on acceleration as usual Bob's diagnosis was on the money. Having finally gotten around to digging into the problem the issue was indeed the bracket or perch located on the bottom side of the axle tube. In my case the bracket was pushed in concave and the hole was badly worn so that the pip or bolt head on the spacer was no longer well locked into the hole. A new plate with the correct size hole was welded onto the perch. the spacers also need some attention. There was also the case on another TR4 SRA as discussed in this thread on the Triumph Experience site: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/diagnosis-rear-axle-movement-question.1694317/
  9. There is also one made in the US by Smoothline. Not cheap either. https://www.smoothline.com/tr6-hardtop I think I prefer the Honeybourne. smoothline.webp
  10. Are to referring to item #71 in the attached Moss (USA) catalog diagram? The SPC lists this a Part #PT0504, a No. 10 UNF (10-32) screw, 1/2" long. For for data see also: https://smithy.com/machining-reference/drilling/page/23
  11. No it doesn't but I preferred having the entire assembly in my hands knowing that everything is clean and properly tight to doing the job laying on my back. There will be no doubt as to whether the entire old O-ring has been removed or not. Having it clean and tidy on the bench allowed me to carefully install the new o-ring in a clean and bright filter head groove with a bit of sealer, and no worries about it falling back out on to the dirty floor. This joint seems to be the source of my leaks and frustration.
  12. I highly recommend that you remove the entire filter head as suggested in Bob's article. Installing the spin-on kit in much easier on the bench and you can clean the thing inside and out. The Moss kit requires that the bolt be torqued to a rather low value. I didn't fancy doing that on my back with my old beam torque wrench. Replacing the PRV ball and spring while you are at it is a good idea too. The only drawback is that the gaskets currently available from Moss here in the States are thin paper and prone to leak. Much better to find an OEM red paper gasket, reuse a good original, or make one. New copper washers for the oil pressure take-off also a good idea, but mind which is which as they have different diameters. PS My TR4A came with a Tecalemit filter head but I changed it out for an earlier Purolator head which has a better, thicker O-ring seal.
  13. Absolutely! It would be a dream holiday for me. I think many of the Roman roads are either under or are very near to modern roads, i.e. the A5 or Watling Street for example being the most well known, so it need not be too damaging to the paintwork. Here are some Roman road " rabbit holes" to fall in: http://roadsofromanbritain.org/index.html http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Gazetteer/Periods/Roman/Topics/Engineering/roads/Britain/_Texts/CODROM/home.html https://omnesviae.org/
  14. I think they ate figs for that. Probably still do....
  15. The attachment on the seat is a lift-the-dot type stud. That looks like a snap on the strap.
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