Phil H 4
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Everything posted by Phil H 4
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Peter, Just taking a second look at your picture the holes in your pads look oval , perhaphs springs are the answer after all. Phil
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Thanks Peter, I'll look into the springs. Hi Stuart, The pins are 1/4" correct for the callipers ( original not replaced ) so I don't understand , as I see it I don't need smaller pins. The question is will the pads I've been supplied with oval holes ( as picture ) rattle, ( 1/4 pins being used not the smaller 3/16 ) or due to the orientation of the pads will the pins hold secure as they will locate at the extremities of the holes. Probably best I'll delay fitting and speak to Revingtons on Monday. Thanks all for your input. Phil
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Thanks both. The pins are 1/4" and correct, I no intention of drilling the calliper , not necessary. Question is looking at the new pads, the holes in the pads are oval not round...quite a lot of movement with the 1/4" pins. ( The previous pads round holes ) are they correct. I gave all information inc commissioning No to Remington's. Second question regarding shims, Thanks Neil in confirming the appearance of the shims. Unfortunately holes will not take 1/4" pins which are correct for the callipers should I drill out shims or wait to exchange as I think 3/16" have been sent.
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I have just received some new brake pads from a reputable supplier for my 1972 CP TR6. The hole use 1/4" pins as opposed to 3/16" The new pads have an oval holes as opposed to round holes in the old pads, would this cause excessive movement ? I am replacing the pads along with anti squeal shims and non were fitted previously. The holes in the shims will not take the pins. I think the 3/16 ones have been supplied so will need to exchange or drill out ! The shins appear a strange shape, I think the brake piston will be half on and half off the shim. Do they look right
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Hi Pink,
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Hi Pink,
What a fabulous grill you've made for your 6. I'm looking for a project to get me through the wet dark winter and wondered if you'd be happy to share a few details. What did you use for the brightwork of the grill frame? I was considering aluminum as easier to shape but the finish on yours looks great.
Any pointers would be fantastic.
Cheers
Phil
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Hi Pinky,
Sorry not to have been in touch.
Unfortunately we suffered a bereavement in the family just before Christmas so car projects have rather taken a back burner.
That said, for the new year I started to refurbish the hardtop I had with the car that had languished untouched in the car port . Just back from the paint shop and about to start re trimming. I'll come back to the grill later in the year.
Kind regards
Phil
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Looks really good, have you got all the bits to go with it, I no some of them are a night mare to get hold of
I'm working on front suspension I fell into a large pothole partially ripping the chassis bracket of, from the neerside, inbourd wishbone
Night mare
Cheers pink
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Fortunately I had quite a few of the rarer items back grills etc and have been able to get everything needed. Hardest was the rear glass rubber, but the TR shop in Chiswick had a few originals. Good luck with the suspension.
Phil
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Hi Jon,
Yes still here.
I have 8.
Send me your address and when I'm next near a post office I'll send them off.
Phil
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Hi Phil. I receive the bulbs today thank you. Only thing is my existing bulbs are screw in. Is there some form of adaptor I need to get or does your loom have push in bulbs?
Kind regards
Jon
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Jon,
Such a shame. My loom has push in. The bulbs arn't expensive about £2/each if you want to do it give Classic Car LEDs a call they are very helpful. They may be able to provide alternative bulbs or an adaptor.
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Hi Phil
Yes not to worry, perhaps they changed the loom at some stage although I can only see screw in bulbs in the moss catalogue. It made me have a look under the dash though and either the H frame or dash will need to come out to get to the rheostat wires, so I will have go next time one of those is out!
Kind regards
Jon
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