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  1. Fitted a new needle valve in the front carb float chamber then went for a 65 mile run. All went very well at junctions/lights, car idled well and no hint of a stall. So I thought I have cracked it, never was the pump just the valve. But not quite there yet. On return switched off and as before would not restart but after leaving 1/2 mins started straight away. This is a lot better than before as had to wait a lot longer. So looks to still be a blockage or could it be a vapour lock, not moved the fuel pipe away from the engine yet. Petrol gushes out the front short rubber pipe so see no reason
  2. Forgot to ask, regarding the filler cap see the metal disc has an edge to it which I assume closes onto a seal in the filler neck. There looks to be something there but it has a rough surface and does not look like rubber.
  3. Ran for 20 minutes in the drive and all ok however there was a weep of fuel at the top of the front carb float chamber. Found some **** between the needle and seat but the needle has a wear groove so ordered a new one. So will replace and try again. Also think I'm running the tank too close to empty. The outlet pipe does in fact contact/close to the block for some distance, there is a short length of sleeveing insulating part of it. Melvyn
  4. Checked the fuel cap breather hole it is clear and over 1 mm D. As said before have put fuel into tank bounced the car up and down and drained from the front. Repeated 5 times. There was sediment but a lot less after. Used air compressor to blow back to tank from front end and also pressurised the tank using a rubber grommet at the filler to blow out at front. When connecting the inline filter fuel gushes out the feed pipe. Not sure about what has been said about inline filter before pump needing to have fuel in it. What I have noticed is sometimes the fuel drains back so it becomes empty
  5. Carbs are SU and have had sticking float valves and fuel leaks but both taken out, cleaned plus bowl and sure that is not the problem now. The problem is no fuel getting to the float chambers. Where does the tank breath from is there something to check. Fuel comes out the pipe that feeds the pump. Did disconnect the inline filter before the pump but made no difference. Pipes blown through with compressed air.
  6. Fitted a new pump and result is the same so assume not the pump. Appears to be temperature/distance related. Starts ok and idles well. So ran the car in the drive idling, it was already warm, and ran for several minutes then the idle got slower and it then stalled and would not restart. It is a fuel problem as undid the fuel pipe from the front carb and tried priming and cranking and no fuel came out. Left it for several minutes to cool down, cranked again and fuel came out. Reconnected pipe and car started. So baffled as to what is going on. The glass bowl is always full of fuel but this
  7. OK understand it cannot be the pump valves, not taken it off yet. Ordered a cheap one and if that solves the problem then can get the original one refurbished. Melvyn
  8. Still getting the same problem. Ditched the washable in line fuel filter as when tested could not blow through it. Fitted a plastic one larger than average. Car started ok then ran ok for 35 miles then stalled at a junction. Got it going and got it home but it hesitated like never before at low rpm. Stalled in the drive and would not restart. Now the fuel check with pipe off front carb and no fuel coming out on cranking. So tried the hand primer and fuel did come out, so back to cranking and still none then eventually did spurt out and it started. I do not think it is anything to do
  9. Drained the tank from the front short rubber pipe, fuel flowed out ok but there was a lot of ****/sediment. The inline filter is before the pump so not in the best place and the inlet/outlet holes are quite small so could block. The pump gauze filter is missing. Used compressed air both ways into tank, from where pipe disconnected and then into tank via a rubber bung through the filler. Put fuel in/drained out 5 times and now only a little sediment observed. Did bounce the car up and down and side to side to move the fuel around the tank. So will put all back and try again. Melvyn
  10. Tried another road test today just to lower the fuel level in the tank. As usual all started well then after some miles engine became lumpy at low rpm but blipping the throttle seem to clear it. Anyway just managed to get home. Did idle in the drive but not smoothly and eventually stalled and would not restart. Took the fuel pipe off the front carb and cranked, no fuel to start with then did spurt out and engine would then restart. Stopped engine after a few seconds and would not restart. Took fuel pipe off again cranked and as before. So after endless tries when the engine does start and
  11. Problem returns. After a 15 mile run stopped switched off engine. Then cranked and would not start. Left for 40 minutes and then it started. Ran for 30 miles idled fine at junctions then 3 miles from home stalled and would not restart. It is no longer electrical. No fuel coming out of pipe feeding the carbs on cranking. Glass fuel bowl full. After a few minutes cranked again, got fuel and it started. Got home (3 miles) switched off and again would not restart but did after some minutes. So I did have an electrical fault now sorted but the underlying fault appears to be fuel starvation. S
  12. All now working have od on 2nd,3rd and 4th not 1st so assume wiring is all good. Because the relay is in the engine compartment the wire to the solenoid had become detached from the relay and fallen out of sight touching the exhaust but as double insulated only damaged the outer one.
  13. Interesting that Marco shows a distributor with external condenser looks just like the one I had on my classic Beetle (recently sold). Should be plug and play but on mine the condenser was mounted where you could not get at it without rotating the distributor, anyway that's another story. So on to the TR. Replacement condenser arrived so tested this with the one bought from Land Rover. Did this on my test circuit and both gave a spark with a crack which would jump well over 1/4 inch. So now 3 good ones with the VW one. Doing a sort of plug and play, the VW one mounted externally and bolt
  14. Today bought a Lucas DCB101 (in a Lucas box)from a Land rover parts place, only £3 so worth a try plus expecting a replacement from the last supplier. If these do not work will fit the VW one externally, only need to drill out the bracket so as can mount/ground via the coil bolt. Not paying big money or might as well go electronic but would need a 1.5 ohm coil as well. Anyway will road test and take any other good condensers with me. If it stalls/wont restart it must be another problem. Melvyn
  15. Tried the test king HT lead and on cranking over did get a spark to ground. New kit arrived points, black lead and condenser. Because of the intermittent nature replaced the black lead as despite the original being less than 1/2 ohm it may have not been good at carrying the load current. Would not start with lead and condenser, left the points. Getting fed up so made up a rig to test condensers. Used a known good coil supplied direct from battery in series with the condenser to earth. HT king lead 1/4 inch from earth. Wire across condenser to ground, so on releasing this wire should get
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