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Markboston

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  1. Well done to all unseen register friends for so kindly helping with your knowledge and experience. I am delighted to say that the present issue was fixed by following your advice. Having bought an STE air gauge (Amazon 40 quid) I checked the flows. Much disparity between the throttle pairs, even though I had previously attempted to set the butterflies with about a 2tho gap to the choke wall. Just a little adjustment on the control links made big differences to the air flow. But I think the real culprit was a butterfly (number 4) which was not neatly tightened down on the arbour and had sort of shifted by an invisible fraction to allow about 4 times as much air to pass as its pair. Presumably this made a local weak mixture, with exhaust pop, every time the gas pedal was touched. I fixed it by backing off the two retaining screws and wedging the fly shut against a 2 thou feeler. The engine seems to perform much more smoothly, and without predictable backfire, as can be imagined. The car had a six into one stainless single-bore exhaust system put on it by the last owner. I am not a fan of the hollow gurgling sounds these make on the overrun - too much like a motorbike for my ears- but the car itself behaves fabulously well now, Many thanks until the next crisis! Mark.
  2. Hi Bruce, Mine came from Rimmers. I did call them to ask if faulted units were often seen, but was told a rarity. Of course I did not want to make too much fuss- its incredible even to be able to buy parts for 50 year old cars off-the-shelf so easily, in the larger picture! But three out of six being faulty and I'm not so sure that standards of the original equipment are quite maintained.... I expect you, like me, have bought 'Lucas' ignition condensers from China that simply do not work at all... and the spring on a recent set of contact points was so mis-shapen that it craftily shorted itself out.. took me ages to realize.. Mark
  3. Thanks very much for these two further pointers: If it does turn out inevitable to adjust the metering, I now think I had better find a professional to do it.
  4. Tim thank you very much for that. Yes, as you now point out, the fault is rather like having a carburetter set slightly too lean. I do not yet know how to adjust the mixture - the M unit is a new exchange from Rimmer. Once I have checked the air flows for balance I will do some homework on MU adjustment. I am only just beginning to realize how simplistic the Lucas system actually is. But I am sure as you mention there must be air-leaks via the butterfly spindles -which presumably cannot be fixed except by heroic intervention - and which might be causing a too-lean mixture at the first instant of acceleration. The plugs, btw, are a light biscuit and in themselves look acceptable by the old standards of colour and deposits I believe. Mark.
  5. Steve: Thanks again for the quick help and kind photo. I just checked up from it. The linkage 'gantry' has what look like fairly new white nylon bushes throughout- thanks to the last owner, that is. There is more or less no play at all in the combined movement of this set up, so the air gauge check will be next, Mark BTW am based in Eastbourne.
  6. Thank you Steve's and Aston. Yes, popping seems within exhaust rather than up in manifold -and is very brief (one or two explosions) only happening the instant of acceleration. : Have now ordered a flow gauge from amazon to check butterflies. Re bushes- was not aware there are bushings in the manifold casting... But there is some play about spindles. Will check valve clearances again but believed correct.
  7. I once again appeal to the brilliant collective mind of the forum to give me an opinion on a slight running fault. Previous posts provided me with answers enough to help me renew metering unit and injectors. The latter were KMI brand. I have now had to buy nine new or reconditioned ones, since three of my first replacement six surprisingly turned out to be faulted 'fresh-from-the-box', after firing up. Only then did the motor run very well, and comfortably rev as far as 5K. There now remains a persistent niggling slight exhaust pop at the very split second that the right foot touches the throttle pedal. The fault is greatest when throttling up from a tick over, but nevertheless happens even at usual roadspeeds.. If I assume that the injectors themselves are now beyond suspicion, I would like to know if such a fault could perhaps be consistent with a maladjustment of the butterflies (I have tried to set these at a near uniform clearance of about 2 thou, but have not used any flow gauges to properly check); and/or with air leak(s) from the slight but apparent evident wear between 'fly spindles and their bearings in the manifold casting. Many thanks Mark B.
  8. Dear Experienced and Knowledgeable, Following my success with very tangled PI problems solved from advices gratefully learned from the Forum, I have now another concerning the car's exhaust. It is fitted with a stainless 6-2-1 arrangement at the manifold end and a mild steel SINGLE long pipe -about 2"o.d. - to a transverse end box. This mild steel rear box is now totally blown.. Actually I went and bought a correct (two-inlet) box from Rimmers before realizing that it cannot fit. There is a single-inlet rear box listed by Rimmer made for the TR5, which it appears could be a replacement, but I do not know if this would be correct enough. I would value members' opinions. There is a custom exhaust firm fairly near to me in Hastings and I think they could make something up, if thought necessary. It is a shame to have the car off the road for days over such a slight matter of course! Many thanks in advance. Mark.
  9. I am so grateful for all the advice received. Without this I would not have made any progress. At the moment the car is running again. When it wouldn’t run any more after landing it home last week, it was certainly the case that three injectors were appreciably leaking, which is why I renewed the whole set -tho that may not have been necessary. Next, as I mentioned in my last thank-you post, the MU was supplying only 4 cylinders. I had already hastily bought an exchange before learning that I could have had mine very reasonably reconditioned, or before checking that perhaps the MU outlets only were at fault and (much) more easily changed than the whole MU. So I cannot be sure how failed this unit actually was. Having installed the injectors and MU ( and new leads which are streel braided, and in my opinion, tailored in size very imperfectly indeed for their intended routing), it was through following the instructions from Mr Raven (AKA) that I managed to squeeze the air out of the system. It is a little difficult to bleed. In fact I would say it was one of the most difficult little bleeders I have encountered. When the engine roared into life (hurrah), it STILL ticked over like an old dog. Reference was then made to one of my kind respondents who suggested, what I scarcely credited, that the breaker gap, if narrowed, could be causing the symptoms I originally described. Absolutely right! The gap was at about 005. Increasing it to about 020 (will look now up what it should be- points are so shabbily made that wider adjustment not possible) completely cured it. The car now seems fantastic, revs like a lion, ticks over like a lamb, in which condition I hope it will stay. It could be, therefore, that after spending about a grand on bits and leaning over the bonnet for about 30 hours, I could have saved all that trouble by 2 minutes with the feeler gauge. Ack . Looking on the bright side, I am sure that at least my restorations will ensure trouble free wind-in-the-hair (or over the hat) motoring into the sunset.. Thank you all again for your generous support.
  10. My many thanks indeed for all the most informative and helpful advice, especially including the call and numbers to call, from you most generous and diligent TR owners. I should perhaps have also stated that the car was owned by a real enthusiast ( unknown to me because bought through a dealer). It’s file shows it was copiously restored - engine and running gear- only 10k miles ago... but that was 20 years ago. The car has I believe sufferered from decrepitudes simply because from judging from its MOT recorded it has been virtually unused for the last decade. Actually I have been busy carefully checking as far as I am able as many as possible of the points raised from your advices. I hope you will be interested in the findings as follows: Injectors numbers 1 and 4 spray no fuel from the metering unit, but the remaining four give a nice conical spray. I confirmed that all of the new injectors that I had installed actually worked in themselves. It turns out that the fuel pump fitted to my car is a Bosch, and the live feed had a hot and burned connection which I have temporarily fixed. I could find no obvious foreign bodies in the fuel after examining the filter. I have checked the clearances of the butterflies and as far as I can tell they are close to the port at about a 004 feeler. The car has electronic ignition which I believe bye passes the condenser, which otherwise is untested. There was a distinct hissing noise from the fuel cap when I picked the car up which I think corresponds to the suggested vacuum in the tank, but I have been careful to leave the cap ajar during all recent trials. The spark plugs are new and the distributor cap is recent. It appears to be firmly clamped As mentioned, the motor roars into life on starting and within a few seconds drops dead after a painfully lumpy idle. Therefore, I am sssuming that a big squirt of fuel from the ‘choke’ on initial start can give the engine about as much necessary petrol as an old-school float-chamber’s worth, which, after exhaustion, leaves the engine with 4-pot running and inevitable stoppage. So I am going to fit a new MU. The fuel leads are old and hellish rusty on the unions, and I am going to replace those too while they are accessible. I think it possible that a few hours of use has finally broken down failing circuitry in a car that is simply in need of further maintenance, Many thanks again. Mark.
  11. I would be most grateful for opinions on where to search next for the gremlin that has killed my TR6 (1971). I bought it five days ago and I ran 150miles back from the dealer fairly well - poor idling and difficulty in revving over 4K. I added injection cleaner to the tank. The problem is now far worse. The car, when it finally starts, will rev high (over, say 2000) but as soon as the revs drop to 1000 it stalls, no matter how much tickling on the throttle. And is then almost impossible to restart, though it always finally somehow manages. In the interim, I have replaced all the injectors and the fuel filter, and have put clips on all the manifold branches, representing a considerable a considerable waste of money as the car is not really any better. I live in Eastbourne which seems to be just about as far from any TR specialist as its possible to be. I am now thinking that the fuel pump may be faulty, but would like to hear some informed advice rather than throwing money on every changeable part I can dislodge. I have no good garage facilities- just a driveway ... many thanks in advance for your collective expertise...
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