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Markboston

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  1. Thanks very much indeed!  Mark. 
     

  2. Would appreciate workshop recommendation for supply/fit TR3A gearbox. (O/D car). Present box perfect apart from falling silently out of 3rd gear, usually immediately after change up. . It is a recon box supplied by TRBitz 20,000 miles and 20 years ago. From past experience I think this highly likely due to overall gear wear rather than the selector itself - but of course would be glad to receive opinion. I am based Eastbourne and new to this car. . Would prefer to drive car to workshop and have fitted, rather than order and parcel-up exchange. Car overdrive functions perfectly.
  3. Well done to all unseen register friends for so kindly helping with your knowledge and experience. I am delighted to say that the present issue was fixed by following your advice. Having bought an STE air gauge (Amazon 40 quid) I checked the flows. Much disparity between the throttle pairs, even though I had previously attempted to set the butterflies with about a 2tho gap to the choke wall. Just a little adjustment on the control links made big differences to the air flow. But I think the real culprit was a butterfly (number 4) which was not neatly tightened down on the arbour and had
  4. Hi Bruce, Mine came from Rimmers. I did call them to ask if faulted units were often seen, but was told a rarity. Of course I did not want to make too much fuss- its incredible even to be able to buy parts for 50 year old cars off-the-shelf so easily, in the larger picture! But three out of six being faulty and I'm not so sure that standards of the original equipment are quite maintained.... I expect you, like me, have bought 'Lucas' ignition condensers from China that simply do not work at all... and the spring on a recent set of contact points was so mis-shapen that it craftily shorted
  5. Thanks very much for these two further pointers: If it does turn out inevitable to adjust the metering, I now think I had better find a professional to do it.
  6. Tim thank you very much for that. Yes, as you now point out, the fault is rather like having a carburetter set slightly too lean. I do not yet know how to adjust the mixture - the M unit is a new exchange from Rimmer. Once I have checked the air flows for balance I will do some homework on MU adjustment. I am only just beginning to realize how simplistic the Lucas system actually is. But I am sure as you mention there must be air-leaks via the butterfly spindles -which presumably cannot be fixed except by heroic intervention - and which might be causing a too-lean mixture at the first insta
  7. Steve: Thanks again for the quick help and kind photo. I just checked up from it. The linkage 'gantry' has what look like fairly new white nylon bushes throughout- thanks to the last owner, that is. There is more or less no play at all in the combined movement of this set up, so the air gauge check will be next, Mark BTW am based in Eastbourne.
  8. Thank you Steve's and Aston. Yes, popping seems within exhaust rather than up in manifold -and is very brief (one or two explosions) only happening the instant of acceleration. : Have now ordered a flow gauge from amazon to check butterflies. Re bushes- was not aware there are bushings in the manifold casting... But there is some play about spindles. Will check valve clearances again but believed correct.
  9. I once again appeal to the brilliant collective mind of the forum to give me an opinion on a slight running fault. Previous posts provided me with answers enough to help me renew metering unit and injectors. The latter were KMI brand. I have now had to buy nine new or reconditioned ones, since three of my first replacement six surprisingly turned out to be faulted 'fresh-from-the-box', after firing up. Only then did the motor run very well, and comfortably rev as far as 5K. There now remains a persistent niggling slight exhaust pop at the very split second that the right foot touches
  10. Dear Experienced and Knowledgeable, Following my success with very tangled PI problems solved from advices gratefully learned from the Forum, I have now another concerning the car's exhaust. It is fitted with a stainless 6-2-1 arrangement at the manifold end and a mild steel SINGLE long pipe -about 2"o.d. - to a transverse end box. This mild steel rear box is now totally blown.. Actually I went and bought a correct (two-inlet) box from Rimmers before realizing that it cannot fit. There is a single-inlet rear box listed by Rimmer made for the TR5, which it appears could be a replacement,
  11. I am so grateful for all the advice received. Without this I would not have made any progress. At the moment the car is running again. When it wouldn’t run any more after landing it home last week, it was certainly the case that three injectors were appreciably leaking, which is why I renewed the whole set -tho that may not have been necessary. Next, as I mentioned in my last thank-you post, the MU was supplying only 4 cylinders. I had already hastily bought an exchange before learning that I could have had mine very reasonably reconditioned, or before checking that perhaps the MU outlets on
  12. My many thanks indeed for all the most informative and helpful advice, especially including the call and numbers to call, from you most generous and diligent TR owners. I should perhaps have also stated that the car was owned by a real enthusiast ( unknown to me because bought through a dealer). It’s file shows it was copiously restored - engine and running gear- only 10k miles ago... but that was 20 years ago. The car has I believe sufferered from decrepitudes simply because from judging from its MOT recorded it has been virtually unused for the last decade. Actually I have been busy care
  13. I would be most grateful for opinions on where to search next for the gremlin that has killed my TR6 (1971). I bought it five days ago and I ran 150miles back from the dealer fairly well - poor idling and difficulty in revving over 4K. I added injection cleaner to the tank. The problem is now far worse. The car, when it finally starts, will rev high (over, say 2000) but as soon as the revs drop to 1000 it stalls, no matter how much tickling on the throttle. And is then almost impossible to restart, though it always finally somehow manages. In the interim, I have replaced all the injector
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