[And so it begins.....]

No, not doing the additional oil feed. Rockers are getting oil ( stripped the rocker assembly off and checked oil emerging from the feed hole). All good!
 

Fingers crossed on the front cam bearing. 
 

Weber rebuild x3 next. 

[And so it begins.....]

Probably an obvious question. 
how can I be sure that all surfaces of the moving parts in the engine are getting oil?

I have good oil pressure but how do I know for instance that the front bearing surface of the cam is lubricating?  
rear is easy, if I have oil at the rocker, then the rear surface of the cam is lubricating. But what about the front?

[And so it begins.....]

radiator mounted and electric fan mounted to radiator with custom aluminium brackets and Resin printed clamps. 
 

Also fabricated a mount for the coil pack to be mounted to the same mount points as the existing coil. 

[Overdrive sump plate oil leak]

I’ve just had a rebuild and mine leaks also and that’s before it’s turned a wheel. Can’t see how or why. 

[And so it begins.....]

AN10 oil cooler pipe work made up running through thermostat. Going to change the red fittings to black but try they will do for testing. 
Now onto trigger wheel sensor mounting and readying for electronic ignition. 
anyone installed and using a mega jolt system? Strangely, I’ve got a few questions lol. 

[And so it begins.....]

When you say you lapped in the PRV piston, was that in the hex barrel or the piston head to the block? At the moment the piston moves smoothly in the barrel. 
 

I have shortened the spring to be 40mm in length. 
 

no additional washers behind the piston head. 

[Importing]

I used SeaKargo

[And so it begins.....]

1 hour ago, John L said:

Do you have the oil cooler fittings on your new housing?, if you have you need to connect them together with a pipe, do not cap/seal them off.  or is it like the picture of Waldi with no oil cooler?  The insides are different if you have or haven't an oil cooler.

John

The oil cooler is not connected yet so I have a 15mm full bore loop to join the in and the out. 

[And so it begins.....]

Waldi

i have measured the spring length on the PRV and its 43mm long not 40. Would this make a difference?(it was a new spring and new Piston). I’m going to remove the pressure gauge and crank the engine to see if oil comes out the spigot. That will confirm oil it at least in that area. 

[And so it begins.....]

This is the oil 

[And so it begins.....]

Hi Waldi

the problem I have is the ring is blowing out the groove in the top of the filter. 

I have a second filter so I might try that one in case the seal groove is faulty. 
 

could it be viscosity? Is is thick and sticky that Moss oil.

my next thought was to take one of the grub screws out of the gallery rail to see if oil is getting up to it. 
 

 

 

[And so it begins.....]

Where does the oil go immediately after exiting the filter back into the engine block? And is there anything that could block the oil at this point?

[And so it begins.....]

Problem!

I have a Mocal spin on oil filter adapter and the the seal between the oil filter and the mocal spin on flat on the pedestal keeps forcing its way out, even though the seal is in a groove in the filter when trying to prime the oil system.  This would indicate that oil is entering the pump, leaving at pressure and going into the filter but not getting any further, hence blowing the seal.  Is this because the oil is thick and cold or is there a blockage past the filter - Cant believe so as its a brand new recon engine and had more baths than a princess at a beauty spa.  I also airlined the oil ways before, and during engine rebuild.  

Does anyone have a picture of the oil pathways that i can refresh my memory with?

Also does the metal hem of the filter have to touch the face of the mocal adapter because at present there is a 1mm gap that allows the rubber seal to belly out of when the filter goes under pressure.

for understanding, i assume oil comes out the block from the lower outer ring then through the filter back onto the central opening. - where does it go from here?

Is it I just haven't wound the filter on enough? but any more and i i think it will distort the pressed threads in the filter.

Any help appreciated

[RHD conversion]

Have a look at my conversation (WIP) page 7 infinityjon “and so it begins”

i did a cut and shut job. Not sure if it’s 100% correct but I think with a RHD wooden dash it will work. 

[Bespoke TR6 catch can]

Can I ask where you got the tr6 3d model from please?  Looking for one to do some assessing. Is it a complete model?

cheers

Jonathan

[Trigger wheel]

Great input but any chance of seeing the Hall effect sensor mounting as requested?

[Trigger wheel]

Morning,

 

I'm putting a megajolt on my 76 TR6.

Going to machine the crank pulley as below.  Where is the sensor mounted for this setup and does anyone have any pictures of the sensor mounting for the missing tooth in this position please?

 

Thanks

 

Jonathan

 

On 5/6/2019 at 1:32 PM, iani said:

I had material removed from the pulley and the wheel let in, no change in width that way.

 

[TDC]

My reasoning behind asking is that I am fitting a trigger wheel and need to mount the missing tooth at 60 degs before TDC on the back of the crank pulley. Having fitted my head I’m not inclined to remove it so wondered if there was an easy check. 
 I know I can make up an adjustable Hall effect sensor mount to soak up the odd degree but can I assume that for the purposes of mounting the trigger wheel to the pulley, TDC shows the woodruff key at 12 o’clock?

 

[TDC]

Brain Fog!

Is the keyway on the crank TDC when it’s at 12 o’clock?

 

[And so it begins.....]

21 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

That is an 'early' type.     It came with two sizes of O-ring, and a small square of BluTac!     The idea was that you did a trial assembly with the BluTac, measured how much that was compressed, then chose the appropriate O-ring!    There was a further problem in that the area of the block face that the O-ring bore on was variable in diameter from block to block.    No matter with the original oil-filter, but the narrow faced O-ring would sometimes not seal to the face.

The new type has a built-in, wide rubber seal attached to it.    

John

Yes since found that out so purchased the new type. This one is up for grabs if anyone wants one. Though might not get many takers

[And so it begins.....]

long time no posts…..Progress on the chassis. 
Engine in and mated to its newly refurbished gearbox and overdrive. Thanks Pete Cox for the gearbox job. 
 

next up is fully electronic ignition, Electic fuel pump and triple webers. That’s going to be a vertical learning curve. 

 

 

[And so it begins.....]

Evening. 
purchased this on the “bay” and wonder if there is something missing. 
 

apart from bolt and O ring seals is it incomplete?  From looking at pictures of the adapter there is a second inner aluminium turning that should be present. 
 

can I buy spares or is it now just a paperweight and I should buy another. 

[And so it begins.....]

48 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

Megajolt includes an optional  inlet vacuum input that can adjust the timing map on the fly.     If you don't have a sensor you can add it. and as ignition really, really needs that advance with speed, it's wasted if you don't.

JOhn

I assumed that the electronic tps did that. 

[And so it begins.....]

Vacuum lines

if I have my engine with triple Webber’s, electronic Megajolt ingnition on a trigger wheel and electric fuel pump, do I need a vacuum line in the inlet manifold?  

[And so it begins.....]

Gearbox and OD now up with Pete Cox. 
Let them sort the shrapnel from the oil!