-
Content Count
1,138 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
-
-
When I adjusted mine, the colortune wanted a certain setting to get the flame blue, but listening by ear, it didn't sound as good, when I adjusted by sound the colortune was starting to go more orange, but it ran better.
So I'm guessing he wasn't far out to begin with, but it made some difference to how the car felt. My problem was being over rich and sooting up the plugs and exhaust. I don't get any noticeable bogging. Maybe have a play with it, mark where you start from and try adjusting things, assuming you've done the other checks first I suggested, plus I forgot to mention I checked the fuel pressure at the MU too.
Gareth
-
Sorry to see you've had to do this repair, but you've made a weak frame a lot better, so some solace.
Gareth
-
I seem to remember, just tapping it gently with a screwdriver and hammer will loosen it. Best to mark the position of the cylinders before you do so that at the very least you can put it back where it was.
I went through all the others things first that can affect mixture at the MU, namely the vacuum amount. Throttle plates closed and balanced, air filter clean or new, tappets adjusted correctly. I put a gauge on the vacuum take off to measure the amount. Making sure you have no leaks from the hoses, diaphragm etc. Good idea to make sure the ignition side is working well too before finally tweaking the MU.
Gareth
-
Enjoyable video, thanks for posting it. I've done the exact same adjustment on my metering unit, I had a colortune fitted but it was the sound that gave me the most accurate setting.
Gareth
-
This is great work Jonny, personally if I didn't paint the car I'd be a bit wary of how far I could go to keep working those last few blemishes, you don't want to end up with thinning the colour.
I've seen some techniques where paint is introduced just into the blemish to build it up, never tried it myself, but might be possible. Can't wait to see it when you've polished it.
Gareth
-
Seems pretty high to me, but then I would do the servicing myself.
They also list things to do with carburettor models but not PI, so you shouldn't pay for them, unless yours was a US import. A lot run electronic ignition, so the points replacement maybe unnecessary.
You also get transmission and diff oil, air filter and valve adjustment, clutch and brake fluids, coolant all changed for the full service. I would say if any of those oils or fluids have been done in the last year, they would be unnecessary, and just checked and topped up if needed. I would be inclined with the PI, to have valve adjustment checked and change the air filter though.
I think it might be worth shopping around, they seem to be geared up for the person who wants a classic but knows nothing and has deep pockets.
And I could do the 'inspect engine & transmission for oil leaks' from here...yes they do!
Gareth
-
Get all the butterflies set as fully closed as possible without them gauging into the throttle body.
Next find a means to prop open the throttle to a fast idle speed, and use the airflow balancer to check what the flow is in each throttle body.
You want to open the lowest reading one to match as close as you can to the highest reading one (you can't reduce the higher one because of where you set the butterflies earlier), so that they are all quite similar.
Then put the throttle back to fully closed, before using the air bypass valve to set the final idle speed to somewhere between 750 - 850 rpm.
Gareth
-
My boot lid is very much the same Jonny. It would be a case of moving the rear wings and doors on both sides to try and equal the the gaps while getting the boot lid level at the rear.
The front wings again can be moved to a certain degree, it's a case of will it be enough to do what you're after, only trying will find out.
Gareth
-
Drive like you stole it!
Gareth
-
I would imagine the silicone blocked the return line, causing incorrect fueling due to diaphragm displacement, or If some made it's way back to the tank it could have got taken back through the MU. Either way a unusual thing to have happened, but glad it's been resolved.
Gareth
-
Looking forward to seeing an update on the outcome when it's finished.
Gareth
-
What is the gap like at the front of the wing/ bonnet, closer or the same? I was just thinking if you take a sliver out of the scuttle, can you move the door in enough on its hinges and does the front of the wing need to go closer?
Gareth
-
8 hours ago, Michaeltr6 said:
I have one on my tr6, and noticed a big improvement
Can you elaborate? What was wrong with the old one, the symptoms etc?
Gareth
-
I've used red on a bolt that kept loosening on my bike, I used red as I don't need to remove it again. Works brilliantly though.
Gareth
-
-
It shouldn't make any difference to performance at all. All it does is regulate fuel pressure as the original PRV did. Unless you're having problems with the PRV you have currently fitted, there's no advantage to changing it.
Gareth
-
Thanks for updating the thread Ernest, it's always good to know the conclusion of an issue.
I use the Pertronx ignitor 1 on my '6, whilst I give the pump a few moments to prime, I'm conscious not to let the ignitor sit there for ages with the ignition on and the engine being stationary.
Gareth
-
1 hour ago, SirHector said:
Thanks Gareth very informative and will be following the advice. Thanks buddy
No worries, let us know how you get on.
Gareth
-
16 hours ago, SirHector said:
Thanks Alan
will give this a go when the weather looks fine for a run out…..but it really does stink I’m told by the Mrs who was following me on a 60mile run home!
A look at your tail pipe will no doubt confirm and be very sooty.
The first things to do are making sure the correct combustion is occurring and is at its most efficient. The following things would be with going through: clean/ new plugs gapped correctly, clean/ new points (and condensor) gapped correctly, timing correct, all throttle plates fully closed and air flow balanced, valve adjustment checked/ corrected, air filter is clean/ new.
Check 'choke' is set correctly at MU. Check for vacuum leaks in pipe to MU.
These should get you to a base level to see how your system performs. If it's still running rich, you can check the compressions of the cylinders, fuel pressure at the MU and how much vacuum you are getting for the MU.
Beyond that the MU could then need a rebuild and adjustment.
Gareth
-
8 hours ago, Z320 said:
Just one thought: with the trottle fully closed you get no fuel / air mix and the engine dies.
Could you please explain exactly what you want do do and what your hope is, please?
Ciao, Marco
On petrol injection, you have a air bypass valve, so when the throttle plates/ butterflies are fully shut you get idle air from this valve.
Gareth
-
12 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
My throttle bodies are all cleaned up, as are the spindles and butterflies. Carbon, oil, dirt - everything has gone and I now have a nice clean setup.
I’m going to run a bleed screw at both ends of the throttle bodies and will be feeding in fresh air, courtesy of the Bauly Cars catch can.
Given the ability to control the air flow at idle a lot more efficiently than the original setup, I was thinking of setting the butterflies with zero clearance at full closed position.
It’s a relatively new area of experimentation for me, so welcome all thoughts and ideas.
You need to achieve as near as you can fully closed without the throttle plates/ butterflies digging into the throttle body itself. That is the idea of having the bleed valve. You may find now they are cleaned up it's not as easy to fully reduce air flow around the throttle plates.
Look forward to seeing how the two bleed valves works.
Gareth
-
33 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:
You’re doing a cracking job of keeping this at the top of the threads list, irrespective of whether it’s a sticky or not. Maybe just let it go ?
-
It's because its one of the unique features of the TR5/6.
Everyone accepts its outdated technology, not as efficient as modern systems and more complex than carburettors, but it's part and parcel of a UK/ European spec car. People like to modify and that's great, it's good to have variety. Some of us like to preserve the originality of our cars as much as is possible.
Triumph soon dropped P.I., so it's great to keep and use something that's only fitted to a relatively small number of vehicles, the survivors of a different era.
Gareth
-
Tyres back to original size and pattern
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I use Retro Classic 001 tyres in 165/ 80 15, they are the same tread as the XAS' successor. Transformed the ride and steering and just look right too. You won't regret going to the correct size.
Gareth