qkingston

Also looking at the 'Flash to Pass' wiring which I know has been covered on this Forum as well as those Stateside. The alternative wiring arrangement which I have used without issue since rebuild is attached, showing the connection of an unfused live to the flash terminal on the column switch. I'm wondering whether the live supply should come from a permanent 12v fused supply so the fuse would blow before any serious cable damage occurred? Any thoughts on the pros/cons of these arrangements David

Marco, Autosparks provide a new loom which is designed for an alternator and with no Control Box. I'm going to strip back the loom tape as Charlie suggests and look at the condition of the other adjacent wires; then decide how to proceed David

Yes that is possible, thank you

Charlie, that is my thought process. Interesting that certain parts of the Brown /Blue cable run are showing insulation melting, others are not, I don't fully understand what creates the difference David

Marco, I have an alternator so the cables are slightly different. The Brown/Blue is from the starter solenoid but a common connection to the battery main feed so effectively direct from the battery

That's interesting Ian, they clearly saw the issue. I added an extra fuse box during the build, but unfortunately the Brown/Blue is un-fused, straight off the battery via the starter solenoid David

Hi Marco, the last thing before this fault first appeared was a visit to a Bodyshop, however I can't see why or how that would have affected anything in the wiring under the dash/steering column. The worst of the melting is at the starter solenoid connection, but also I've found melting where the Brown/Blue crossed over an earth wire which has melted through causing a direct short to the body! David

I have a almost new Autosparks loom in my 4a, installed during rebuild and worked fine for 3yrs. Recently after a visit to a body shop, I noticed that the main beam flashed on occasionally when turning the steering wheel. I suspected that an earth was occurring in the vicinity of the column lighting switch, possibly contacting the indicator cancelling clip and shorting through the steering column. After some investigation, I managed to move the indicator clip slightly further down the steering shaft; it seemed to be sorted. However, today during final checks before the first show of the season

Assuming that's my switch being modified, it came from J Duncan Lloyd (Classic Bits); thanks Roger David

Pete, I have a spare TR5/6 front header bar if you want to go down that route and some spare locking handles Rgds David

ok thanks for letting me know David

Hi Martin, yes 2 fixing bolts, exactly 50mm apart centre to centre David

A pair of Tex stainless steel wing mirrors in almost immaculate condition, 1 tiny scratch on one, hardly visible. Purchaser will need to source suitable mounting pads for door/wing mounting. £25 plus P&P or pick up from Glasgow area Many thanks David

I was referring to copper pipe Tony

I'm replacing the short length of copper fuel pipe into the fuel pump, I have lengths of pipe but I notice that one is 7.94mm x 0.71 and the other is 7.94mm x 0.9mm, which is correct and does it make any difference (I assume wall thickness)? Many thanks David

My early 4a bonnet is an angled bar David

Thanks for the feedback, I get the point about the wheel and tyre consideration. I'll probably stay is is for now, the medium/higher speed stability and ride comfort is absolutely fine with the 6" wheel - 195/65 combination Rgds David

I know, I know, this has been covered many times and during my complete 4a restoration I looked into this in some detail; but Forum searches didn't provide an answer. A fellow member offered me a set of 15x6" KN Minators in as new condition for little money, so that decided it. After 2 years of running I'm happy with the general handling/comfort of the wheels with 195/65/15 Vredstien T Trac2s, except for the slow speed manoeuvring/parking which is hard work (obvs). So my question is; how much difference to this would switching to 5 1/2" rims make with the same tyres. I understand that the tyr

Are they not the same company? David

I was seriously tempted by this given that it is pretty complete and has been untouched for almost 40 yrs. However on conversation with Enginuity I'm rather less keen, it needs new sills, both B posts, rear inner wings just for starters and the front outer wings are from a 4a and fibreglass. If I had more space and a higher level of welding skill I probably would have gone for it. Great to see it has re-emerged from the darkness though David

ok thanks Rich, I'll let you know the postage Rgds David

TR4a grille as shown in pics, straight and reasonable condition, a little light oxidisation only. LH indicator mount needs re-fixing but is in vg condition. Free for collection Glasgow area or for cost of P&P David

I've discovered a slight fuel leak at the join between the copper and rubber pipes in the engine bay; I have a new section of Gates rubber pipe to fit but wondered whether there is any other method of improving the joint? I've seen online comments about soldering an olive to the copper pipe, which would be fine with a new build, not so great with a line with petrol vapour/residue in perhaps. Any other suggestions? VMT David

On several occasions I have been searching the forums for articles but have found the really useful photos are missing with a Photobox logo saying the picture is not available, is there a way round this? Thanks David