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Posts posted by qkingston
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4 hours ago, Z320 said:
David,
I’m even more confused…..
You used a standard new loom, which is made for a TR4A with generator.
And you used the brown-blue cable to connect the battery with the solenoid?
It has not the dimensions to do this!
And I don’t know where you can buy the colour combination in the needed dimension to use it for this.
Your photo is from under the dash?
Some more and better photos are needed, please.
Ciao, Marco
Marco, Autosparks provide a new loom which is designed for an alternator and with no Control Box. I'm going to strip back the loom tape as Charlie suggests and look at the condition of the other adjacent wires; then decide how to proceed
David
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1 hour ago, gloide69 said:
Because the main beam was flashing on, it suggests a problem with the lighting switch rather than a short to earth, as the lights are earthed at the lamps.
I'm guessing the lighting switch on the 4a is on the steering column. During your investigation, could you have trapped the Brown/Blue wire near the lighting switch or on part of the steering column loom?
Paul
Yes that is possible, thank you
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Charlie, that is my thought process. Interesting that certain parts of the Brown /Blue cable run are showing insulation melting, others are not, I don't fully understand what creates the difference
David
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Marco, I have an alternator so the cables are slightly different. The Brown/Blue is from the starter solenoid but a common connection to the battery main feed so effectively direct from the battery
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That's interesting Ian, they clearly saw the issue. I added an extra fuse box during the build, but unfortunately the Brown/Blue is un-fused, straight off the battery via the starter solenoid
David
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Hi Marco, the last thing before this fault first appeared was a visit to a Bodyshop, however I can't see why or how that would have affected anything in the wiring under the dash/steering column. The worst of the melting is at the starter solenoid connection, but also I've found melting where the Brown/Blue crossed over an earth wire which has melted through causing a direct short to the body!
David
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I have a almost new Autosparks loom in my 4a, installed during rebuild and worked fine for 3yrs. Recently after a visit to a body shop, I noticed that the main beam flashed on occasionally when turning the steering wheel. I suspected that an earth was occurring in the vicinity of the column lighting switch, possibly contacting the indicator cancelling clip and shorting through the steering column. After some investigation, I managed to move the indicator clip slightly further down the steering shaft; it seemed to be sorted. However, today during final checks before the first show of the season, I noticed the main beam came on again, followed closely by white smoke from under the dash. I quickly isolated the battery and had a good look under the dash and the engine bay. I can see significant melting on the Blue/Brown wire at the starter solenoid terminal, on the Blue/Brown connection to the lighting switch wires and a section of melting on the main loom under the dash (Brown wire) which had melted through the wire insulation and the loom tape.
Obviously I need to find the original cause of the short, but further downstream than that I'm thinking I may need to replace the entire run of the Blue/Brown wire, or even the full loom if other damage might have been done within the body of the loom
Any helpful thoughts on this?
David
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Assuming that's my switch being modified, it came from J Duncan Lloyd (Classic Bits); thanks Roger
David
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Pete, I have a spare TR5/6 front header bar if you want to go down that route and some spare locking handles
Rgds
David
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ok thanks for letting me know
David
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Hi Martin, yes 2 fixing bolts, exactly 50mm apart centre to centre
David
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I was referring to copper pipe Tony
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I'm replacing the short length of copper fuel pipe into the fuel pump, I have lengths of pipe but I notice that one is 7.94mm x 0.71 and the other is 7.94mm x 0.9mm, which is correct and does it make any difference (I assume wall thickness)?
Many thanks
David
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My early 4a bonnet is an angled bar
David
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Thanks for the feedback, I get the point about the wheel and tyre consideration. I'll probably stay is is for now, the medium/higher speed stability and ride comfort is absolutely fine with the 6" wheel - 195/65 combination
Rgds David
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I know, I know, this has been covered many times and during my complete 4a restoration I looked into this in some detail; but Forum searches didn't provide an answer. A fellow member offered me a set of 15x6" KN Minators in as new condition for little money, so that decided it. After 2 years of running I'm happy with the general handling/comfort of the wheels with 195/65/15 Vredstien T Trac2s, except for the slow speed manoeuvring/parking which is hard work (obvs). So my question is; how much difference to this would switching to 5 1/2" rims make with the same tyres. I understand that the tyre profile is also creating greater ground contact and therefore more friction, but would a narrower rim make a noticeable difference?
Many thanks
David
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Are they not the same company?
David
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I was seriously tempted by this given that it is pretty complete and has been untouched for almost 40 yrs. However on conversation with Enginuity I'm rather less keen, it needs new sills, both B posts, rear inner wings just for starters and the front outer wings are from a 4a and fibreglass. If I had more space and a higher level of welding skill I probably would have gone for it. Great to see it has re-emerged from the darkness though
David
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ok thanks Rich, I'll let you know the postage
Rgds David
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Andy, postage would be £7, let me know
Rgds
David
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Thanks Andy, I'll find a box and work out a postage cost and give you call tomorrow
David
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Serious electrical short, TR4a
in General TR Technical
Posted
Also looking at the 'Flash to Pass' wiring which I know has been covered on this Forum as well as those Stateside. The alternative wiring arrangement which I have used without issue since rebuild is attached, showing the connection of an unfused live to the flash terminal on the column switch. I'm wondering whether the live supply should come from a permanent 12v fused supply so the fuse would blow before any serious cable damage occurred? Any thoughts on the pros/cons of these arrangements
David