JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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Les, turn the slave so the bleed nipple is on top. Re-do bleeding and put the rod in the middle hole. Post your results incl. throw. Than we can debate again.
But as you have it, is not as it intended to be.
Jochem
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Just for my understanding, this is a direct replacement for the hardy disc?
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Mine TR6 Master is actually protruding into driver's footwell, mounted next to the brake servo. So this horizontally mounted drip tray does not work.
is this a UK TR6 type issue?
Update: it actually is. never realized this.
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2 hours ago, Mike C said:
They're still available:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165129267652?hash=item267278a9c4:g:ICMAAOSw8ixhRWrR
I am confused. How is this suppose to work for TR6 ?
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12 hours ago, Graham said:
I’ve been doing some work in a local classic car garage and the have stopped using Helicoils and now use these instead.
they are nice, but expensive and require a much larger hole to be drilled. So be careful where you use it.
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The 313247 ist the casting number (raised). Check the head assy number such as 218227. This number should be stamped. The original head is 3.535". In this case your head has been skimmed. If the center Inlet ports match the spacing you require and the valve ports have a nice smooth transition (which indicates a good quality casting) then you should consider it. Also depending ofcourse which CR you want to achieve.
Jochem
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there is a difference using a string to keep the valves up or using it to lift up a stuck head.
Using a string to keep the valves up is still one of my favorites. I am just not fond of sticking metal parts into a cylinder.
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1 minute ago, Drewmotty said:
Replace the bleed nipple with a grease nipple and use a grease gun.
Finally!
+1
Actually, I was able to pull the pistons out by hand....they really should not be locked up. But the grease works very well too.
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John delivered as promissed.
Damper seems to be in acceptable shape....for a 50 year old part, pretty good.
Thanks John!
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8 hours ago, Richard71 said:
I'd be interested, are they suitable for double springs?
ofcourse....I sent you a PM.
Jochem
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I had some trouble with the coils almost binding (1.55)....the "uprated" collars seem to work better but they are made from aluminium. And with the steel ones the collets do not sit deep enough. So I make them myself. The actual series will be made from titanium and/or quality steel with a better fit. The collars are larger in diameter so the spring is completely covered. If any interest, send me a PM.
Jochem
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On 9/14/2021 at 1:40 PM, Peter Douglas Winn said:
I have bled the brakes many times and after a while they are soft again. Could I have an airleak at one of the unions. If yes how do I check it and find out where.
I have no signs of fluid. Washing up liquid did nothing. Master cylinder never seems to change. Locking the pedal down over night has no effect. I cannot think of an easy way to pressurise the system to see if there is a pressure change. Or am I missing something?
How old is your master?
If one of the piston seals are worn, fluid is being transferred back into the reservoir.
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What is your opinion?
1. Keep it and use it as is,
2. Scrap it and buy a new one?
3. Refurbish it, where?
I know Ed had some thoughts about minor damage to the external rubber, which does not really say anything about the internal rubber. I am a little hesitant sending the damper to "Damper Dudes" in the US. Eventhought they have a good reputation. But maybe there are some UK based companies who can refurbish. I am not looking into buying a new one, especially with the quality standards of some of the known suppliers. Unless someone has a true respectable source.
Jochem
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36 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:
And a part no for the brake master cylinder Jochem. Will the original Triumph master cylinder fit?
What is the dimensions of the servo including the master cylinder in length?
Yes, the original master will fit. The whole thing will shift about 2" forward, so you need to extend or redo some of the brake lines. For a LHD it was the lines from the PDWA to the Master which are just a few inches. Not sure RHD.
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The only reason I would buy the "bling-bling" is that most used covers are corroded and warped. I have currently 3 of them on my workbench
1. corroded and warped. TDC marking OK.
2. corroded. TDC marking off.
3. warped. TDC marking OK, slightly corroded.
Trying to get at least one of them to match my requirements for my second engine.
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2 hours ago, stuart said:
so I would up the crankcase one to at least 1/2" as well
I was afraid of that.
Will do.
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I like Gavin's setup too, but it still needs a functioning brake servo.
Most issues are not with the amount of vacuum but with the brake servo itself.
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19 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:
Thanks Jochems,
Is the servo from a 940 volvo unit and will it fit a right hand drive do you know. Drawings are excellent.
Regards Harry
Volvo 960-940-740-760 with 8" diameter and 2 membranes.
if mounted onto a RHD, you need to check my adapter. it probably needs mirroring.
Cut a piece of wood and make a template out of my drawing. Take a piece of cardboard and make a 8" volume. Believe it or not, this is how I did it.
Jochem
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coming back to this topic...
I have a tubing from the valve cover and crankcase (fuelpump) into a catchtank. After reading some more, is there any particular advice on the inside diameter of the tubings? I have a 1/2" coming from the valve cover and 3/8" coming from the crankcase. I am planning to have a 3/8" all around and since valve cover and crankcase are connected with each other thru the internal engine, I do not expect much difference.
Opinions?
Jochem
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16 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:
Would still be interested if this Volvo mod makes a difference and does it?
one of the best upgrades you can do to your car....I have it in combination with a modern master, larger rear, vented discs and Ferodo pads.
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On 9/7/2021 at 3:58 PM, FatJon said:
Jochem, what are dimensions of the adapter plate? I'm going to order a chunk of aluminium ready cut to save me some work.
let me know if you end up changing any dimensions so I can update my drawing if required.
Note: this drawing was removed due to proprietary reasons. Contact me if interested.
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In this particular case (1) The volvo brake servo was taken apart, new studs welded and fork slightly offset welded.
This is not something easily done, and can only be done with older brake servos.
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There are two options
(1) Modifying the volvo brake servo to fit TR
(2) Modifying the TR to fit Volvo Brake servo
In the first pictures I posted, I made an adapter block which would fit onto the volvo brake servo (2). For a RHD the dimensions need to be checked.
The installation I also have, the volvo brake servo was modified to fit onto the TR.
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something like this?
Upside down slave cylinder and 9.5mm throw
in TR6 Forum
Posted
John's idea is correct but bleeding the clutch can indeed be a little tricky.
I use a vacuum pump. This is more convenient as the 2 person option is.
Secondly, when bled, do not worry straight away. Press the pedal, hold it with a block of wood for about 24 hours.
Jochem