JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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again, a nice piece of work.
My second LT77 Gearbox will enjoy it.
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21 hours ago, Richard Pope said:
Emerald is pretty expensive vs MS system so does anyone have a map for a TR6 one could use as a base?
VE Table is based on Fuel injectorsize, Fuel Pressure, Fueling type, Lambda Target. So be carefull with copying.
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my latest generation EFI.
Customized TBs with upper linkages. Customized fuel rail. (I always found the aluminium profile fuel rail somewhat overkill in the whole picture, so I build them myself new.)
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we had the same topic in our german forum....
EFI guys may be able to confirm this.
my engine:
No pressure build up during cranking! The 130-190 RPM are too little to generate oil pressure. Don't bother cranking for 20 seconds. To generate oil pressure, you need the engine! Oil pressure is within 0.8s.
Tyrrell mentioned this in his video. cold start cannnot be generalized. each car/modell is different.
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7 hours ago, BusheyTrader said:
Have you tried Robsport and James Paddock in the UK for used parts?
https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/tr7
Yes. But the parts required are not common. So I am hoping on someone with some leftovers in their garage...
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13 hours ago, Neil Ferguson said:
Hi all. Just to let you know that I haven't slowed down my working hours. I'm still reconditioning all the components of the pi system including modified components in the metering units that give them a longer working life. I'm doing modification to CP manifolds.
Neil
Nice!!
I will forward this Info to my german friend...
What is best way to contact you, phone, email? Can you provide us with your current contact data?
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The bellhousing I am referring to, comes from Rover SD1 2.3 and 2.6 engines.
Jochem
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2 hours ago, Z320 said:
Jochem,
I know your LT77 gearbox works now in your TR6.
What about an update here at the forum, if you like?
I‘m looking forward for your next project!
Ciao, Marco
Sure, here it is.
After initial installation and first test drive, I was amazed with the ease of shifting. The gearbox is short and direct. For me personally, I find it a lot more pleasant to drive in 5th gear vs using the overdrive. The LT77 does not extend towards aft as much as an J-OD does and this became very convenient. I was worried about some rattling in the gearbox. First thought was the clutch bearing, since pressing the clutch made the noise dissappear but the noise came from the main gearbox. I removed the gearbox brackets and I could remove the gearbox down. The whole operation was done in about 45 minutes.
The gearbox was carefully inspected again, actually taken apart, and no damage or wear could be found. Some parallel investigation turned a few causes for this matter.
1. rotational non-uniformity. I had the gearbox out, used an electrical drill.....surprise...no noise! smooth running. However, lightened flywheel, race cam, introduce an unequal torque which transfers into the gear box. With its backlash, this noise becomes apparent.
2. Oil. Rover and even Ashcroft advise on ATF Dexron II/III. However, the LT77 was never designed for this oil. It just improved shifting in cold. On a later date, MTF94 was approved. Wow!! Surprise. Looking at the viscosities, they are almost identical !! In various forums, LT77 Gearbox oil is discussed. A most interesting subject. Some tests were done with Castrol SMX-S. Best results achieved. Occasional scratching going from 1st into 2nd, but warm, the smoothest shifting ever. However, SMX-S no longer exist. Its successor Syntrans, no longer exists either. But there is a new player. Castrol Transmax series. 75W-80 or 75W-90. The famous 75W-85 is no longer offered. As I mentioned, the LT77 was not designed for ATF Oil, but Motul 75. This viscosity is very close to a 75W-90 oil !! Long story short, I ended up using 75W-80 and 75W-90 mixture and I can only say, I am more than pleased with cold and warm shifting and the annoying rattling has almost reduced to zero.
I am gathering parts for another LT77 gearbox to keep as a spare or maybe sellling. Conrad helped me with my bell housing (very rare) and I found a dissassembled LT77 Suffix D (I have C) for about 150 Euros. Main, Layshaft in very good condition, so this one will get new bearings, small parts and assembled again. Done.
Jochem
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sorry, I cannot use the classifieds...so I have to do it this way.
For a second LT77 Gearbox, I am looking for following parts. Maybe you have one, or you know a second hand trader you can visit. I will pay you a fair price.
Item 1: Triumph TR7 TR8 LT77 GEAR KNOB 5 Speed Good used from TR7 Gearbox 5/16 unc
Item 2: Triumph TR7 TR8 LT77 GEARLEVER CAP UKC3159 UKC8764 Rover SD1 V8
Item 3: Rover sd1 v8 Lt77 gearbox remote tr7 / tr8 mg v8 hot rod kit car --> Spring only !!
Item 4: Speedometer Pinion Gear Triumph TR7 Rover SD1 2600 2300 in Gearbox --> 21 Teeth !!
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Thank you all for your replies.
I forwarded this to my friend, my personal preference is to contact carl...
but it is upto him now.
Jochem
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For a friend of mine, I need metering unit (CR) and injectors overhaul. so obviously I will send it to Neil or Malcolm.
Any news on their response times and results of the work done?
I am hearing, Neil is a little bit harder to contact thru email.
Jochem
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19 minutes ago, Nigel A said:
Fitted Sachs 3082100041 at the end of last year to my TR250 and definitely lighter than the B and B
Thats the one !!
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In case it is a A-OD, get yourself a dedicated relay, ideally a modern one costing about 3 £.
W1 = 86 = 12V control current, from OD lever-switch via OD switch on the GB.
W2 = 85 = Ground
C1 = 87 = output, towards solenoid
C2 = 30 = input 12V
In case of J-OD, a relay is not necessary.
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21 minutes ago, Spit_2.5PI said:
Jochems, that's a brilliant solution. I have never seen such slender injectors - I often wondered if such things existed. Which ones did you use please?
Hello Richard,
Bosch 0 280 158 167. Here in Germany easily available.
Jochem -
Look here
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12 minutes ago, TRTOM2498PI said:
Gearbox: You will be fine with a carefully built Triumph Stag derived gearbox, with a competition o/d unit. This will absorb over 200bhp & 200lbs ft torque, and you will be able to engage o/d at wide open throttle at 6000 + RPM without complaint. It is quite entertaining. It is as close as you will get to a sequential gearbox. Worth using the clutch to disengage the o/d though.
or 5 Speed LT77....I am very fond of this. Rated 245 lbsft and fits well to my 190 BHP engine
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1 minute ago, John G said:
Wow !! love the workmanship looks really good, the inserts for the injectors look 3D printed ?
Thank you.
Nope. Machined. POM.
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customer requested aluminium fuel rail. not my personal favorit, but customer is king.
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You do not need any machining to fit modern EV Injectors.
I build these myself.
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16 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:
A remote servo is sriggered by the hydraulic pressure (rather than the pedal pressure on the TR6 brakes). The remote servo has a hydraulic cylinder that receives pressure from the clutch pedal being pressed via the pipe that runs across the bulkhead and the diaphragm in the servo puts pressure on the output side.
sure, this is all unterstood....but the servo contains a type of hydraulich cylinder which carries a piston and seal and the servo itself.....I am just wondering whether here are more parts introduced that can break down.
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Yes, I would expect so, but maybe someone can share some pics on a TR6.
The pedal needs to press in some kind of Master. Then a connection from the master to the Servo, which has another Master2. Then a connection from Master2 to the slave.
Right?
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I am confused. I thought this was about a TR6. How can a servo be installed with a brake servo already in place?
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7 minutes ago, Waldi said:
but the servo-route is probably the easiest.
is it? Can this be done by just Plug-n-Play?
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or try this:
-0,70" Master,
-Sachs Clutch (not Laycock)
-concentric slave cylinder
I can press my clutch by hand.
My homemade bubble wheel balancer
in General TR Technical
Posted
I very much like the idea, just a question, is this suppose to replace the dynamic wheel balancing done at your local garage?
Jochem