JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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Hi Andy,
I replaced the felt seal with a synthetic version. Look into this link or search "Front Hub Issue":
Some people were sceptical.....but it works perfect and I have about 4,000 mls on it already.
Jochem
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Just curious...how do the spark plugs look ?
Did you check the injectors?
Jochem
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This is the bearing you may want to consider.
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You really do not need to remove the dash....going thru the main instrument holes should be sufficient.
Unwrap the cable loom to check the other cables, cutout the parts affected, get new ones and wrap them with the original loom again.
If you cutout and re-connect cables, try to solder them versus using connectors.
Jochem
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Hi Roger, I am not sure about an overly small cable cover. But as you can imagine, there is some failure potential here.
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If the short happened after switching low beams on, then there is a short following the blue wire. The blue wire goes thru the lever switch at the steering column. Maybe the cable is rubbing inside.
Jochem
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Waldi, if jubilee fittings are not ideal to attach high pressure hoses, and you cannot find a supplier who mounts a steel sleeve, what other possibilities are there to attach a rubber hose?
Jochem
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Marco, for my understanding, and as we spoke over the phone, to remove the steering shaft (replacing bushings) there is no need to loosen the coupling. Correct?
Jochem
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Richard, I conducted a before and after dyno Test with a Phoenix manifold and exhaust. I got a 3% Power and 5% Torque increase. That is way below the 25 hp RTR is advertising.
RTR may be a little different from Phoenix, but not much.
The only systems (manifolds) that seem to improve Power and Torque are from GT and similar from Triumph Special Tuning. Those manifolds alone cost just as much as a complete system RTR or Phoenix are advertising.
Exhaust wrapping has been discussed here few times....might as well be a oil discussion, not a real verdict
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Ray,
I am just done with my EFI Installation with Kent 280 cam. ECU is a ECUMASTER EMU Black. Look into this.
Ignition is wasted spark, I am no longer using the distributor.
TBs are CR bored to CP.
I am in the midst on running and tuning on a dyno bench. Feel free to contact me thru PM to get personal contact data.
Jochem
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Dave, get Marco's tool !
Jochem
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Hello Kevin,
unfortunately, there is no such thing as having similar issues, and by changing a needle it is all done. For us to help you, try to answer this
a) are the carburators overhauled if no, are they in good condition such as swimmer heigth, diaphragms, bypass and temperature compensation still ok ?
b) which needles do you currently have? The markings are on the needles. Open up the top cover, pull out the damper und needle. Should be like B1AF.
c) what ignition curve do you have? run the engine at 900 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000 - 2500 etc and have someone note the spark timing
d) can you go to a garage and have AFR checked?
Just as a side note, each engine behaves differently. I spent lots of time adjusting springs and needles in my carbs. The effort was however, worth it.
If you cannot or do not want to hassle with this, find yourself professional help.
Jochem
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Kevin, I addressed this is my post. You need to measure AFR, only then you know where a modification in the needle is required.
Jochem
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Kevin, there is no certain profile for certain climates.
I made my own needles and took an AFR Gauge to have a good balance. This worked in the French Alps and also on land.
What is your spark timing, can you do AFR measurements? What cam and CR do you have?
Jochem
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I have had the ZS with a Kent 270° Cam over 140 BHP.
But I tuned the ZS with an Innovate MTX-L Wideband AFR Gauge. Before adjusting, changing springs or whatever, find yourself a garage and check your spark timing and AFR. So you know which parameters to change.
Feel free to share.
Jochem
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Hello Bruce, the spindles run in bearings. The CR Bodies are connected thru those brackets and use a set screw and spring loaded pin. This allows for some tolerance.
.002 " feeler gauge was used and everything is fine. It seems that the spring may be weak and needs to be replaced with a stronger one....
Jochem
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The CR Linkage is rather uncomplicated. The thing I am really not liking is the fact it is all handled thru the first Throttle Body (TB) of 1st and 2nd Cylinder.
TB 2 and TB 3 are connected thru the spindles with a set screw and spring loaded pin.
I have an additional spring between Lever (98) and Bracket (108). This Spring remains however, loose and is not able to close the TB completely.
This is especially the case for the middle TB (Cylinder 3-4).
After I set the TBs according to the manual thru the set screw and sping loaded pin, I had a very bad idle running around 1300.
After I released all screws and cable, Idle was around 950. This means, the TB discs are closed and fit. But for some reason, after proper setup the TBs do not seem to close.
Question:
- any advise on the springs or how to setup the Throttle Link (100) vs the Adjustment Screw at the Cable
- any thoughts on this linkage? maybe swap out for upgrated version from Malcolm (Prestige Injection) or Revington? They are expensive !!
Jochem
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You can try this, I provided Oil Switch and warning light with its own 12V.
No more hassle with pale or interference from other sources that may be there.
Jochem
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Unless you have a dyno bench, you will not find much difference within few degrees. TR6 engine is very forgiving.
Do the following:
put in 3rd. Start at 1.500 rpm, pull upto to 4.000 or 4.500. use stopwatch. Repeat.
MAP feature not needed.
Program 2nd curve and use switch in the console. Play between the two curves. But trust me, after few weeks, you are done playing....
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I replied in TR6 section.
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Idle Run (900) about 11, below that, pull up the curve again. 500 can even go up to 20°. 1000 can go down to 13°
Max advance 30° depends on CR. Start at 28°, gently climb up till knocking, backoff 2 degrees.
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if you are close to a CR 9.5 or even 10 try a curve close to this
500 - 12°
1000 - 16°
1600 - 21°
2000 - 23°
2600 - 28°
3000 - 30°
4000 - 30°
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GT6M recognized it...
thanks.
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WOT may mean pressing the pedal to the metal. However, effective WOT occurs earlier since manifold pressure has dropped, and further pressing the pedal no longer leads to manifold pressure change. Therefore, WOT position is not the mechanical fully open position. My picture actually shows slightly UNDER travel, since there is actually mechanical travel left over.
Front Hub Issue
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hello Gene, I ended up using the synthetic seal which I showed here. You can also buy these in UK.
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/catalog/product/view/id/141031
I have been driving these now for 4,000 mls....
and I was carefull with the amount of grease in the hub. Not too much.
Jochem