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JochemsTR

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Posts posted by JochemsTR

  1. 9 minutes ago, RogerH said:

    Hi Jochem,

    how did you measure it to 6 decimal places.  I would suggest that making it to 4 decimal places was very good machining.

    Making it to a dead size +/- 0 would not be practical or possibly achievable.

    Point 4 of a thou undersize doesn't sound too dramatic.

     

    Roger

    no, that is due to the conversion from metric to imperial.

    0.001"  = 0,025 mm which is considered uncritical according to ORS

  2. Layshaft from Rimmer....

    Measurement 0.811811"  I read the measurement should be dead on and should be 0.812204" so the Rimmer is 0.000393" undersize.

    Can anyone tell me whether this layshaft can be used, or find another source for this?

    Jochem

  3. 8 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:

    Repeatedly squirt penetrating oil down the stud holes for 24 hours minimum. If the double nut trick doesn't work, a stud extractor like this one will most likely get them out:

    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/?da=1&TC=GS-040213986&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8WwddAyEsi6oEjaeJvwZ25INKAPx8MisQSwolvJJMXwEygNbtnzvjcaAkgLEALw_wcB

    The studs will be chewed up and fit for scrap afterwards, but it's always best to fit new fasteners when replacing the head.

    Good luck,

    Nigel

    +1

  4. Hello Andrew,

    look at this. He wrote an article and helped me with my 2.7L engine.

    As you can see, the majority of blocks can be bored upto 76.2 mm without any problems. After 77 it starts to be critical.

    The matter is not the bore, it is the quality of the material. On my block an ultrasonic test was conducted to make sure the material is in perfect condition.

    I ended up with 77 mm.

     

    Possible Bore.JPG

  5. Aftermarket prop shafts have different lengths.

    I had one where the compressed lenght would just fit between diff and gb. Result: vibration and not able to flex-extend. Cut the propshaft by about 1" - reweld - rebalance.

    I thought this was due to the gb being too much aft. It wasn't. I compared prop shafts lengths and they did differ.

    Removing the prop shaft towards the back with diff in place only works when the prop shaft is short enough, since it needs to go thru the t-shirt under an angle.

  6. John, you are looking for the VE Tables?

    Just how it looks or actual numbers?

    I changed from EV6 (229cc) to modern EV14 injectors (267cc), CR to CP TBs with another TPS Sensor. Same car!! It changed my VE Table completely.

    Anyways, just comparing tables does not really do anything unless you have matching parameters. You need to be more specific regarding your configuration.

    Jochem

  7. I had the chance to drive an EPS on a TR4. The engineering was excellent done and I was very excited to drive. After the testdrive I can conclude that there are certainly advantages such as parking, slow driving with curves, but for high speed sporty driving, my excitement diminished. I missed the feeling with the road, the behaviour of the car.

    Jochem

  8. 12 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

    Is he a pro, or an amateur, like me?  

    If the first, then his business deserves a mention!

    JOhn

    Matt also posted in this thread...you can see his work a few messages back...

  9. ...this is how a 5" plenum with 5" K&N Filter looks like....powder coat pending

    Hopefully a little test-drive this weekend (weather permitting) and see if I need to adjust my fuel table...

    Jochem

    PS Matt, many thanks !

    larger Plenum.JPG

  10. 19 minutes ago, marting said:

    Good Morning Tim

    I make original spec countershafts and linkage rods. I have come across this problem when customers fit my kit (even some of the TR specialists!). The issue is that the countershaft is over rotated in the idle position and this is usually resolved by adjusting the linkage rods (winding them out to make them longer). However in your case it appears that the countershaft is already against the throttle stop. As pointed out by John, your throttle stop appears to be bent down. If you bend it up it should allow you to back the countershaft off which will bring the screw close to the cam and also ensure full throttle opening. See attached pics of the set up on my test engine (apologies but couldn't insert pics the right way up!. If you do need a longer screw I can also send one out to you.

    Kind regards

    Martin (Fred Millturn)

    Hello Martin,

    nice to see a supplier taking time and effort answering and helping members.

    Jochem

     

  11. Pete,

    what do you mean you topped off ?

    You put in a few droplets (!!!)  and look at the damper height. Dimension A should be about 6 milimeter. Then you screw on the cap.

    Your car isn't starting because of a few drops too much oil.

    ZS.JPG

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