JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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You can only remove 2nd, 3rd and 4th cap. In this case, start with the easiest one. If that goes well and the bearing looks good, you may not need to do the others. I personally would however.
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If the gaiter is used to retain grease, you need to use the metall tie straps as used in modern cars. They can only be used once and can only be removed by cutting them. If the gaiter is there for dust protection only, you can use those plastic black cable tie.
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If torqued correctly no need for „lock“ washers. They are $#%£ anyways.
the only true lock washers are Nord Lock Washers. -
ARP bolts can be recognized. But very likely, the bolts will be original which is totally fine. ARP bolts are mostly used at the head.
if the main bearing cap sits fit, you can re-install it with bearing in place again. No need for further measurements.
Removing all caps to inspect the bearings (one by one) is a normal procedure. -
if you can get the butterflies to completely close, this is most favourable. The air required for idle will come via the Idle Set Screw located at Cylinder 1.
The WHB specifies a MAX Gap of 0.05mm. Since the butterflies do not perfectly fit inside the TB especially when cleaned up, there already is an uncontrollable amount of air passing by the butterflies. This amount is enough to drive most mechanics crazy since they cannot get the idle set or run smooth. Running few hundred miles will cause the butterflies to get "dirty" again, since the oil fumes from the valve cover are fed into the airplenum which in turn clogg up the butterflies. Clean butterflies are NOT desireable on a PI.
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I bought my radiator from Ben. Top job.
Pete, what screen do you intend to install?
Interesting to know where to buy the screen and sealer.
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Alan, ofcourse.
But in Tony's case, his overall settings are off. Some will settle after a couple of miles, some will not. Why? good question. Maybe the new parts are not upto par. Offset, addition of tolerances.
I would buy Article 661-650 from Moss. Those are the original spec springs. Not very expensive. Check again. When the car still sits at 28" 1/4" , I would have them compressed by 0,7 " --> this gives you around 27" as a new height. You can increase the thickness of the springcollars (0.120 --> 0.325) as the springs settle.
I am sure there is a shop in UK who offers this kind of service. We even have them here in germany.
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You can look for alternative springs which are shorter with a similar compression ratio. Or much shorter but with a higher cr. You can easily do the math….
or…..what I did, I had my springs compressed to meet my requirements.
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1 hour ago, AJAS said:
- Coil 10.25" free length, 9 coils @ 1/2" wire dia
- Difference in coil height between free length (on the bench) and fully compressed (on the car) 1"
This is what I described.
So you have original springs with original compression ratio -
4 hours ago, AJAS said:
Thanks both. I'm reluctant to take the spring off at the moment, so will first do the other checks mentioned in the next few days.
I am not sure what other checks you are referring to. Take one spring out and measure accordingly as I described. Takes about 1 hour.
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Standard Front Springs are 305-310 Lbs and should be around 258 mm.
With 645 Lbs on the Front, you can check whether your measurements make sense. if the calculated compression is lower than your actual measured value, you have an issue somewhere else.
So with 645 / 2 = 322 Lbs. Your spring should compress around 1 inch. --> 232 mm. Make a marking on the uncompressed spring, measure the distance between the markings before and after. This should give you some kind of indication whether your spring is causing the 28" height.
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Check the height WITHOUT shocks. What is the compression ratio and uncompressed length you have?
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My vented disc set require for the original steel wheels, about 10-11 mm wheel spacer. The steel wheels have a problematic offset.
9 hours ago, Erik said:should I fit same spacers to the rear too in order to keep the geometry right?
No, not required but you can. More important to have the correct length wheel studs. You need at least 7 thread windings to mount the wheels.
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10 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
One for regular unleaded and one for super perhaps.
yes, that is the one and only reason to switch between the two curves with the 123 Tune USB.
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34 minutes ago, pinky said:
Thank you for the replies, I think at the moment I will stick with the original I23
If you have a Tune version with USB cable, YES.
If not, upgrade to the Tune version with USB cable, NOT the BlueTooth version.
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30 minutes ago, stuart said:
OP has non standard ones so quite probably they are different. Not really something to experiment with.
true
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16 hours ago, stuart said:
Do be aware if you strip the callipers then you need to know the torque settings for the through bolts,
7/16" - 95-101 Nm
3/8" - 55-61 Nm
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I would be careful with the BT version. The connection does not seem to be reliable. Please read the user experiences yourself.
I had a Tune (with USB) in my TR (now EFI), and currently a Tune with USB in my Bug. The main challenge ist getting the negative pressure curve. In general, tune it once, after that, forget about it.
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no joke:
engine oil in the engine: 10W60 ----20W50
gearbox oil in the gearbox 80W90 GL4. (no ATF or stuff like that)
(I have read recommendations putting engine oil in gearbox)
If regularly changed, pick any known brand from you local shop. (castrol, liqui moly, etc)
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I have Goodparts Roller Rocker Assy. These have needle bearings.
Richard mentions also his Oil Feed line kit, however, does NOT specify whether this is a requirement for his Roller Rockers.
I have yet to ask him.
In my opinion, if the camshaft generates enough oil, which you can see during idle, coming thru the rockers, also @ #1 and #2, I don't think it is necessary to have an additional feed. Needle bearings do not need a oil flooded lubrication. but feel free to educate me.
I had a feed on my previous engine, since it lacked oil at #1 and #2 valves. There was significant oil at the valve cover vent. That was annoying.
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5/16“ INSIDE diam is fine
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11 minutes ago, FatJon said:
The pencil coils are designed to go in a hole which supports them, like on a modern 16v engine.
Yes. I am specifically looking for these. I have seen them on a TR6. It actually had a bracket along the cylinder head to mount them. I just do not recall the car or owner. I would like to avoid the HT Leads.
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Repairing a thread without removing the sump?
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by JochemsTR
Since the sump is in place, I am not sure how you can drill and tap anything. There is no room for the tooling to turn.
my suggestion: glue the damaged screw in place and fix properly next time you remove the sump.