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About Bleednipple

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    TR4 (1962)

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  1. I saw a long debate on another forum some months back and it turns out that pretty much all tyre manufacturers say the newer tyres should go on the back. I changed my new tyre habit of many years after reading it and seeing the sense. The same thread also highlighted that British cars tend to wear out their nearside front tyres before the offside. Anyone care to guess why? (no Google cheating).
  2. I have one, with perspex window, as I wanted minimum weight, and am generally pretty happy with it (esp as I now have press-stud trailing edge fittings for the soft top - since the above pic was taken). At a passing glance you wouldn't know it from a proper Surrey... from the outside anyway. Inside you'd need to coat the raw GRP of the backlight, assuming it bothered you. Nigel
  3. Thanks Marcel, Iain and Andrew. Good intel. Nigel
  4. Are the TTracs structurally different to the Vred Sprint Classics? (Just curious as I now have Sprint Classics on my car but £43 for the Ttracs is obvs. pretty amazing and I might consider them for my other set of wheels.) Nigel
  5. John - very interested to hear about your mod to rear of canvas - press studs rather than rigid bar and the dreaded threaded bushes. Coincidentally I had just been pondering something quite similar (and sod the originality, my Surrey frame is a GRP lookalike anyway). Do you have a picture? Any problem fitting the metal Surrey lid over the press studs, when required? Anyone else any experience/advice? Thanks. Nigel
  6. Bleednipple

    paint choice

    Powder blue and Wedgewood blue are distinctly different colours so be sure you know which is which. Powder blue is often associated with TR4s as it was the colour used by the works rally team and as such is I think very evocative of the marque. I suspect it was also often specified for US export cars, as in the case of mine (1962 TR4) which came out of the factory in powder blue with, wait for it, a white hood and tonneau (although my car was long ago resprayed red, as is - ahem - more proper for a British road-going TR. I'll get my coat.) Wedgewood blue, as offered as a colour on the 4A, is a much richer blue and edged more towards the psychedelic shades that became popular in the late 1960s and 70s. Nigel
  7. Thanks Pete, I'd seen Rugby Classic website - they look like they prob know what they're doing and prices are nicely transparent. From quick check of my wheels the spokes all seem fine and splines marry up snugly. But at £40 a corner for a respray I might just treat them anyway, and they can check and rectify any iffy spokes as well. Good call, thanks again. Nigel
  8. But doesn't that only happen with repeated use? Back on topic... I've just taken the wires off my 4 to fit minilites for rallying. But I'm keeping the wires for nicey-nicey occasions (aiming to use spacers with the longer studs). So, anyone know a good place to get the wires refurbished for next summer? Or indeed how to check their condition myself? They seem okay and I don't want to spend a fortune for a rebuild if they just need a lick of paint.
  9. Thanks, yes it did occur to me maybe my engine mounts could be a bit tired. I'll look at the LR option for sure. Nigel
  10. Okay, thanks Tom and Tim. My sump is virtually flush with the chassis members - actually hangs a couple of mm lower than chassis - so I guess guard will need some spacers or it will be functioning as an extra engine mount! Also I just noticed bottom of exhaust manifold is vulnerable, comes out very low, so I guess it will depend what guard chosen and how it's fettled. Thanks again.
  11. Backing up to one of Kevin's other questions above... sump guard. It looks like various options/ways to fit a guard but my question is more basic, ie how vulnerable in reality is the TR4 sump and gubbins for road/gravel rallies (ERA type)? It doesn't look horribly vulnerable, in between the chassis members - unless I went off over a pretty chunky rock. But I do have an oil cooler fitted and I could see how that could easily pick up a stone. Have no ARB, and standard steel sump. I can see you'd inevitably lose a fair bit of ground clearance. Guessing the rally experts will say just fit a guard and then the problem goes away... but I'd welcome opinions anyway.
  12. Bleednipple


    I'm going to sound like a complete noob now and I'm almost too shy to ask... but do you actually drive (albeit slowly, for sure) with the brolly up?? Nigel
  13. In the old days I used to remove an old filter by knocking a big screwdriver straight through the can and using that as a lever. Slightly messy but always seemed to work a treat, but probably ill-advised for some reason (eg risk of getting swarf into the oil channels)? Nigel
  14. Here's a good review of the Alsa product, it's a video made by a professional (who makes theatrical/film props by the look of it). He tests the Alsa product in various ways: He concluded that the product can work very well, but not when brushed on. Needs to be carefully airbrushed, over a black gloss undercoat. I suspect not the holy grail for us in its current form, but maybe if the product keeps getting improved...
  15. In order of investigation: first I would first inspect the brake pedal linkage to see if anything is sticking there - not sure if this occurs on TRs but it can do on some cars. Then I would try the car with the servo disconnected. I have heard of servo defects causing this type of problem, could be as simple as a defective return spring. I will let a TR grown-up decide whether to ask the brake fluid question!! Nigel
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