michaelfinnis
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Posts posted by michaelfinnis
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3/8 UNF nut and bolt, 26-34lb/ft. Described as ‘inner driven flange to outer axle’ in the manual, not terribly clear.
Mike
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37 minutes ago, gloide69 said:
Because the main beam was flashing on, it suggests a problem with the lighting switch rather than a short to earth, as the lights are earthed at the lamps.
I'm guessing the lighting switch on the 4a is on the steering column. During your investigation, could you have trapped the Brown/Blue wire near the lighting switch or on part of the steering column loom?
Paul
The headlight power supply passes from the switch to the lamp and then to earth. If the lamp was flashing it can’t be because the lighting cable in the dash area was shorting to earth, but was shorting to a power supply, ie an adjacent live cable.
Mike.
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Blue antifreeze concentrate is about £6 a litre. Why spend so much effort trying to find an alternative which may or may not be good for your engine when purpose designed coolant is so cheap and readily available?
Mike.
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Further to the above, the pure glycol coolant was also flammable, not ideal in combat.
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Following quote is from the book ‘The Merlin in Perspectve’ about the Rolls Royce Merlin engine as used in the Spitfire and many other aircraft. Seems relevant.
Cooling systems
Early Merlins used 100 per cent ethylene glycol cooling which allowed 135°
coolant temperature, but with the advent of the Merlin XII a major move was made
to pressure water cooling using 30 per cent glycol as anti-freeze. The advantages
of water as a cooling medium are considerable. With 135°C coolant temperature
the mixture at 15 lb per square inch reduces the cylinder head metal temperature by
some 30°C when compared with 100 per cent glycol. -
2 hours ago, stuart said:
They are a service item change it when you change your oil.
Stuart.
Seems a bit excessive to change every service. Workshop manual says clean with petrol.
Mike
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I believe the main benefit is a lighter wallet so that you go faster.
Mike
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The Bentley reprint of the BL workshop manual printed 1972 also quotes 1 deg. negative, +/- 1/2 deg. which seems to be the consensus. However, there is no procedure in the manual for adjusting the camber. I realise camber can be altered by turning the trailing arm brackets upside down, or by swapping the different bracket types around, but that is not described in the Triumph manual. So was camber considered non-adjustable?
The different brackets are specific to model year according to the parts list.That raises the question of whether camber is the same for early and late cars. Roger Williams 'How to restore Triumph TR5/350 and TR6' book states that there is a difference in the early and late type trailing arms that accounts for the different brackets. He says that if changing from an early trailing arm to a later one then the brackets also need to be changed to the later arrangement (from 1 notch inner/2 notch outer to 3 notch inner to 1 notch outer).
Yet when I did just that and replaced an early trailing arm with a later type recently using the later bracket arrangement threw the camber way out. Reverting the brackets to original restored the camber to same as it was with the original camber, within the above specs. In which case the later cars with different brackets would presumably have a different camber angle?
All of which is a bit contradictory. Maybe someone out there can enlighten us?
Mike.
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What on earth are you guys doing with the stuff? A can lasts me ages.
Mike
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2 minutes ago, harlequin said:
Agreed, most of the suppliers sell good parts but they all also sell not so good parts. We have all had experience of sub standard parts and when complaining to the supplier have been told "This is the first time we have had a complaint about this part" and we all know that all the time the thing is in stock it will pushed onto the market. As an example rubber gaiters that last a few months before falling to bits where a similar item for say a Ford or VW will last ten years.
If the Register were to supply a quality item it would take the lottery element out of maintaining a TR
George
Agreed, but you still have to source them, and who would decide which are quality and which are not? I can see another forum trail about the quality or otherwise of register supplied parts resulting.
My local group has negotiated a useful discount with one of the big suppliers who happen to be local to us. I don’t know if other groups do something similar, but that might be a more useful and practical help.
Mike.
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On 3/31/2024 at 8:14 AM, michaeldavis39 said:
Is that the same for the Cayman and the Boxster as I thought they were supposed to be good handling- boring on a track having driven one around Croft
Haven’t driven one on the track, but you would have to an idiot to lose a boxster on normal roads unless it was icy or something. They really do corner as if on rails.
I have driven an ordinary car on a skid pan with the electronic aids both on and off (really off, the normal switch degrades but doesn’t totally turn them off), that was quite educational.
Mike.
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7 hours ago, Ernest said:
Thanks all for the helpful advice - some thing to check.
What is the general view of changing to c.v. drive shafts - I prefer original if possible. Mind you I do
have some polybush, a Bosch fuel pump and electronic ignition, so not all standard!
Best wishes and thanks
Ernes
An original drive shaft in good condition is perfectly adequate, and u/j’s are cheap to replace. Don’t forget the sliding splines can also wear, which would require a replacement drive shaft.
The c.v. set up may be a little smoother, but if you want to drive a modern car buy an MX5! They are also a lot more expensive, your choice at the end of the day.Mike
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3 minutes ago, harlequin said:
Somthing that would be a real benefit would be for the Register to sell to members good quality basic parts such as brake pads, air filters, speedo angle drives and any other such things that are of dubious quality from the usual suspects.
But then ofcourse that may have an impact on advertising revenue
George
Where would the register source them from though? There are only a limited number of manufacturers making these things, most of the commercial sellers are getting such items from the same suppliers.
Also, whilst there are some second rate spares out there I think it is a little unfair to tar all with the same brush. The popular big suppliers have been fine in my experience.
Mike.
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In theory the mu should be set up on the bench, using a flow test rig. The triumph workshop manual actually cautions that the adjustments should not be touched. On the other hand, logically you would think that although the bench rig gives the correct basic settings the mixture would ideally be tweaked to suit each individual engine?
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On 2/20/2024 at 9:46 AM, Waldi said:
Thanks Andy,
Closing the air bleed valve while balancing the trhottle bodies is a very good tip (for me at least): it will eliminate the influence of the bleed air on the balancing of the butterflies.
I will certainly do that next time I’m on it.Waldi
When driving the car the air bleed valve would not be closed off, it would be open, so wouldn’t you want to to set the butterflies up in that condition?
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I don't have them fitted to my car (they weren't on it when I bought it), hasn't caused any problems that I've noticed. I did think about replacing them, but like you I can't see what purpose they serve.
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12 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
The heat shrink goes around the male bit and is shrunk on. It then takes up the very small amount of play to make the male to female connection a snug one.
If there is play then it is not a interference fit.
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How do you get heat shrink into an interference fit? What would that achieve anyway?
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I don’t find my clutch heavy at all. No idea what clutch is fitted. Am I stronger than I thought, or have I been lucky with whatever clutch was fitted by PO? Is there a problem with clutches, or clutch hydraulics, being supplied now?
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Ref play or wear, I found this on Racetorations web site;
LH trunnion assembly suitable for TR4A - 6. This is a common wear point on the front suspension throughout the TR range and is critical to the characteristics of the driving experience. Always check both sides for wear ensuring no forwards & back movements can be made to the vertical link when installed in the trunnion.
They are talking about forwards and back movement rather than side to side, maybe give them a call and ask their advice?
Mike.
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Not sure what the dimensions of the pipe is but say for arguments sake 1/4in bore by 1 metre length; the volume of the pipe would be 32ML. Halving the bore would drop the volume to 7.9ML, a reduction of about 24ML. These are tiny volumes in comparison to the air flow going through the manifold, thousands of litres a minute, hard to believe that is going to make any difference.
Besides, the system worked as Triumph designed it. The system doesn’t need redesigning, it just needs to be set up correctly and any faults to be corrected.Mike.
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24 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:The hybrid cam of Toms sounds interesting too but did not know it existed. Efi does not like a lot of overlap due to shock waves and gas reversion. This was explained to me by Emerald. The TR5 /early 6 one is fine.
Regards Harry
TR5/earlyTR6 cam has a long overlap, more than the PH1/PH2 ?
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PI cars, CP or CR, should drive perfectly smoothly, if they don't something is wrong. To me it makes more sense to fix the problem rather than throw the lot away and fit a non standard set up which may cause as many problems as it solves. I also wonder how well SU's would work with a CP cam. My understanding is that one of the reasons for adopting PI was that it could tolerate a wilder cam than stromberg/SU carbs.
Peter's suggestion of using an engine driven pump is interesting. This arrangement was used in race cars very successfully for many years. The pump was the same Lucas pump but driven by a belt rather than electric motor, which would get around any problems with the original pump which the road cars were supposed to suffer. You would have to source a bypass valve and other bits, but the system is still used a lot in classic racing so it must be possible. I wonder if anybody has done this on a TR?
For what it is worth I have a CP car with a Lucas pump, and haven't had any problems with the fuel system. It does take a few turns to start if not started for a while, but that is a characteristic of the car and isn't a problem.
Mike.
TR5/6 chassis
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
Only just read this thread, but I’m intrigued by the said bracket. I’ve read elsewhere that it’s to stop the engine moving forward, but why would Triumph be so bothered about that? Also, logically the larger end would surely face rearward, not forwards in that case. A safety device to stop the steering column moving back would make more sense to me, but then why only on the left side? Only required for the American market due to stricter safety regulations there maybe?
Mike.