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davewhitefoot

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  1. The problem is still with me. I have unscvrewed the pedal stop so that it no longer contacts the pedal and I have also shortened the pistin rod to ensure that the the piston returns to its full extent. I can now only assume that the new master cylinder is faulty!!
  2. It was because I had to bleed the brakes reglarly that I fitted the new master cylinder. Immediately after this I noticed that the NS cal;iper was leaking so I replaced this and the hose by which time winter was approaching and I did not use the car again until last week when the new problem surtfaced. I haave now slackened off the pedal stop and bled the brakes because I had removed the pipe between reservoir and master cylinder. After all that the pedal appears normal, (I have yet to check the free play) and afetr pumping the brakes a number of times the brakes are free and I can push t
  3. I've had the car about 8 years and have always topped up with DOT 4.Is this incorrect??? Dave
  4. Struart, I forgot to say that no servo if itted and I use DOT4 fluid. Dave
  5. Hi Stuart, Thanks for responding. I did slack off the pedal stop last evening but have not yet had the time to check if this has improved things. Will check over the weekend and let you know . I feel if that doesn't work then I have a dodgy master cylionder. I will look up the moss invoice in anticipation! Dave
  6. I have just "woken up" my TR3 but have encountered a problem. The brakes locked on and the pedal was solid. I got the car home by cracking a bleed nipple and the car is safely back in the garage but the pedal is again solid having used the brakes. Suspecting a vaccum in the reservoir I removed the cap with no effect and then removed the pipe between reservoir and master cylinder, again with no effect. Over the winter I have replaced a front n/s caliper and flexible hose and also fitted a new master cylinder. Is one of these items likely to cause the problem. All sughghestions gratefully r
  7. Thanks RobH. I have of course looked for a removable plate but it all appears solid!. I think that a hole will have to be cut!!!
  8. I have still not solved my brake problem which featured in the forum some time ago. I have decided that having tried a number of potential cures/diagnostics suggested in the forum, for which, many thanks, I have decided to replace the master cylinder. Since I used to run TR2 and 3a in the 60's, 70's and 80's I must have changed a master cylinder at somwe time so why am I now having trouble? The issue is undoing the bottom bolt from below the cylinder. I think it is a bolt fed from the rear into a captive nut but I cannot see how I can get a spanner or socket onto the bolt head and wonder if I
  9. Hi Roger, Thanks for your reply. I'm not aware of play in the front wheel bearingsĀ  but will go and check this.

    Dave

  10. My TR3 (TS 21965) has an ongoing brake problem. When first used this year there was a lot of pedal movement and so I bled the brakes resulting in the usual excellent pedal and effective brakes. This soon "went off" and I have since carried out two further bleedings with the same result. The fluid level in the reservoir does not drop and I can see no signs of leakage anywhere. Anyone had a similar vexperience? Any suggestions?
  11. I've always felt that the gearbox in my TR3a is odd; it "feels" different. The speedo also reads about 33% slow. Whilst I havn't yet taken off the gearbox cover I have found that there is a small added panel that covers the speedo drive from the gearbox. Upon removing this I found that, unlike other TR2's and 3's I have had, the speedo cable is not screwed into the gearbox box to a right angled drive so I wonder what gearbox I have. Any ideas? I propose to remove the right angled drive and see if the speedo cable will connect directly to the gearbox outlet but the impression I get (it is
  12. Thanks once again Bob. Ak for next weekend. Dave
  13. Bob, I have followed your diagnostic instructions - 1. There was no earth connectivity (using my multimeter) between the dash panel and the battery so I have run a new earth wire from an earthing point under the bonnet to the gauge mountinh screw 2. I touched the T terminal (Green/black wire still connected) with the new eart wire and the gauge needle shot to empty. I guess this means that the gauge is OK. 3 I have checked earth connectivity between battery and sender. This is fine. 4. I have checked connectivity from tank sender to T terminal on the gauge and s
  14. Thanks Bob, I will get on with this this week. Dave
  15. One of a number of electrical problems with my TR 3 was that the petrol gauge always read full. Over the last couple of months I have fitted a new wiring harness and was careful to ensure that the body of the gauge (via its mounting thread) was earthed as shown in the wiring diagram. However, it stll reads full when there is, at best, a quarter of a tankful. Does anyone have any helpful ideas? Dave Whitefoot (again)
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