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Tony_C

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Everything posted by Tony_C

  1. Hello Rod, got mine fitted in the glove box, I’m out of the country but can send picture tomorrow if you still need
  2. No Waldi, you were correct I opened up to find everything remarkably clean and dry but, does appear solenoid has been pulling on one side rather than the other most likely for some time, I ve ordered a new one Thanks Stuart and Charlie - Don’t think these solenoids are date stamped, unless it’s in code; the bake light does has some numbers
  3. Sorry for any confusion John, it’s a late (nearly last off the line) 3A.. .I did put a (also late) 4A Engine in 40+ years ago for a bit mor uuumph trying to keep up with ‘Dave ‘Lightning Brown’, Neil Remington etc in their heydays and minor (although in hindsight possibly not strictly fair) advantage in the rallying... Everything else was and remains very original Tony
  4. Thanks John, Waldi,... and Bob, All makes sense, don’t think they were made to be opened up but do you then bolt/rivet back together? I’ve got no reason to believe this solenoid was not the original fitting when car was built nearly 60 years ago and I’m certainly not against replacing now; my big concern is if I have not got to the root cause then it could always happen again with replacement ..... and I’m getting too old for this kind of ‘excitement’
  5. Setting-up the new ignition system with short bursts of the starter motor to locate tdc (battery was low and getting flat due to sporadic charging only over winter and then this intense use - nothing new here). However, then had shock of sticking and staying engaged, turning off ignition had no effect; over 40+ years of 4cyl TR ownership, Ive had numerous times of solenoid ‘clicking / clunking’ rather than engaging in above circumstances but, never known solenoid to stick the other way ie engaged? System is completely standard and ‘unmolested’ for nigh on afore mentioned 40years. Has anyone else experienced similar? Am I barking up the wrong tree linking to low battery output, first idea is just to replace solenoid (is quality repro available?) seems too risky to try again with charged system if any risk of solenoid reingaging whilst out with bonnet down etc? - Do I need to go battery isolator route? All feedback really appreciated Thanks, Tony
  6. That’s not good Roger. Is Dorking within range? - Long, long time ago ‘one man band’ think it was ‘Auto Attractions’ did an excellent job on an old Marcos of mine that a colleague had shunted. The Marcos, of course, was plastic but he was keen TR4 owner and was doing incredible work on some steel exotic classics.. That was nearly 20 years ago and i have not been back for at least 15, he was - as we all were - youngish at the time.. Perhaps Let me know if you want me to dig any further? Good luck to Rod
  7. That looks very nice (although you can barely see it!) .... and (you can clearly see it) you’ve upgraded the rad / cooling
  8. To me anyway... Will that rad cool everything ok? What is the grey ‘round horn’?
  9. Tony_C

    Dizzy

    Yes N.... He flogged me a super dooper coil also for an extra GBP 60+ And yes Iain, Dizzy Doc is universally recommended within TRR but (interestingly) not all the other old car circles? Thanks all - I’m feeling much more positive now I have got to bottom of the issue and have both plan A & B
  10. Tony_C

    Dizzy

    Thanks Tom, did not realise that but, of course, makes sense; where did you get it from? - The sales guy just sold me a rubber bung for extra GBP 1.50 to fit in, does that do the same job?
  11. Tony_C

    Dizzy

    Thanks Stuart, Roger, Yes, will definitely get the original rebuilt and retain...But, will bolt on the ‘123 Ignition’ as soon as it arrives in a day or two - I think they are made in Holland? - I ran my Elan Sprint with older electronic ignition (you could not get under the huge webbers to adjust points) and that worked well... Although, just about everything else used to give me bother the majority of the time!
  12. Not been running well for a while..... I messed around with points and changing condensers when (it now appears) problem was more fundamental; inside alloy casing is also scored on one side, so not been right for a while.... Just ordered Electronic from ‘SC’ at Crawley... Any advice, have I done the right thing? Thanks, Tony
  13. Fully realising I’m missing the actual point..... Judging by his picture, best we don’t see him ‘wink wink’?!
  14. Fully realising I’m missing the actual point..... Judging by his picture, best we don’t see him ‘wink wink’?!
  15. Zimm, - I put complete 4A engine in my 3A some 40 years ago with never a problem with the choke.. Can send you a picture tonight but, as per above, looks like you are sorted..
  16. Agree.. But, GBP 2.00 was fair sum back then? Great ‘bonus’ Roger.. Suspect that letter on its own is worth as much or more than whatever you paid for the manual to some
  17. Thanks Gents, I should have known - but did not - this ‘one stop shop’ for all dizzy related woes. Cheers, Tony
  18. Fundamental but any advice would be appreciated for where (or not) to source spare coil? Thanks, Tony
  19. Albeit quite some years ago now, I had to get my TR4 tank repaired down in the Algarve region of Portugal, the local garage inverted, brimmed with water and brazed up as good as new in a matter of minutes.
  20. Hello Adrian, Very warm welcome, you have chosen - by far - the best example of the best model of the best marque of sports car, so well done thus far! Although, many of the experts have already spoken...You are absolutely correct: You do not need a sump guard to protect the radiator and sump (in anything but the most extreme driving circumstances)... If the ‘angle-iron’ is still bolted on under your radiator, I would suggest leaving well alone (cooling is marginal at best once they get old) and spend any spare cash on getting rid of the white-wall tyres and repairing the rust spots in front wing.. If you really care about the grime, then lean in once in a while and give it a wipe around. - Only in my opinion and all the best to enjoy to the maximum - these cars were so well build from original, for ‘nprmal’ Use = leave well alone
  21. Just had the briefest of scans of the video - thanks, I will look properly - sat having a sundowner in S.E. Asia wishing I was sailing into Sydney Harbour... Ive been lucky(?) enough to sail round the world, most of it quite a few times, and Sydney is out and out the most fantastic natural harbour in the world (and I’ve climbed your bridge!)... As above and further the video, bizarre but completely normal, impossible to enjoy the challenge at the time (same with rallying, when I did, at any standard) tired, stressed only waiting for the next thing to go wrong just when you don’t need it; loads of money and sacrifices in other areas but, actually the greatest challenge you can see yourself and crew against.. Comfy bed would be too easy! Anyway.. for now, if you have read Joshua Slocum doesn’t it all come into perspective how sanitised and spoilt we all are compared? - What a character to be able to buy him a drink and just listen and enjoy.. ‘Priceless’ as the ad over in UK goes.. He would have gone due south out of Sydney... no worries!
  22. Hello John, Yes, wow, the factory would not recognise anymore... But, tell us, do you really need a heater in Sydney?!... I decided years ago that they are ‘ballast’ even in freezing UK and Sydney is always glorious weather?!. ... Further, considering your impeccable taste re side screen TR’s and S&S sail yachts - Both undoubtedly the best of the best!! - you will fully understand the ‘ballast reference’ above... We have got (UK Norwich built - same town that built my Lotus) S&S. - Yours, undoubtedly(?) was manufactured in Oz and - only judging from the TR photo - will not only look immaculate but confidently get you home whatever force 10 the Pacific or other oceans care to throw at you. - You know the S&S 34 has world records to its name? - Did you set one or two of them?
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