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jon.nolan

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  1. Hello John! I'm good thanks, finally getting on with my cars instead of everybody else!! It's a nice feeling I'll look into all you have mentioned, Thank you and I'll see you at Malvern if you're going.
  2. Thank you all! Much appreciated! Some reading to do and a hairy chest to glue on as I think I probably will go for the worm and peg and dispense with the servo...
  3. Mmmm seat belts... To be launched over the wall into the field where the angry bull is or to be strapped tightly into the raging ball of flames... I never know which is best...
  4. Blimey, that was quick responses, thanks chaps... Thanks for the lightening quick response Stan! Yes I've only ever had Peerless's and Warwicks before (I ran the Peerless register for a while before Nigel Cluley) so although I'm familiar with the mechanicals and electrics, the 3A chassis and body are new territory and I don't want to miss something that's easy to do now and a nightmare to do later. The car is a Californian import to the UK so I need to convert back to RHDrive. It already has a RHD rack conversion but I'm not sure if I want that or not, I've always just had the standard worm and peg on the Peerli and been happy to work on my upper body strength! (beats paying gym membership...) As far as 'how far do I want to go, goes... I'm happy to upgrade stuff that isn't too visible... I'd go for things like optical ignition so long as it's discrete, an alternator hidden in a dynamo case, a brake servo maybe as long as I can hide it well... I know, hypocrisy.... Cheers, I'll post some pictures when I start...
  5. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
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