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About Chris1966

  • Birthday 06/13/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Werrington, Staffordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    1962 TR4
    1973 TR6
    1981 TR7v8 Drophead
    1972 TR6 LHD from USA
    1982 TR7 FHC

Recent Profile Visitors

232 profile views
  1. +1 V11 came yesterday and no current MOT as car is being worked on. It will have MOT when finished, this way I don't have to go SORN and then put tax on later. Chris
  2. Hi, I have used Slick 50 - years ago in my everyday car and thought it did what it said it would. As you probably know don't put it in a overdrive gearbox! Chris
  3. It never used to work for me, just a test to see what happens now. ( ) Chris Now it does not embed and the link disappears from view but is still part of post on edit screen.
  4. Hi David, Have you tried pulling the headlamp switch out (with battery disconnected) to see what happens on reconnection. That would let you know if the problem is with the switch. Many years ago when I had my 7 the switch just suddenly failed. If this does not get you anywhere you can pull the motor connectors and manually raise the headlamps as a temporary fix. Chris
  5. Normal find file Full size or thumbnail test dropbox failed to work , was thumbnail and just did not load? Would be interesting to know if anyone does get it to work. Thanks Chris
  6. The low tension wire to my coil broke at the joint with the spade connecter last year. I was lucky as I had been on the motorway 10 minutes before, just gone over a bit of a bump in the road and then dead engine followed by smoke as the wire earthed itself before I could turn ignition off. After a bit of pushing I got the car off a busy A road onto a garage forecourt to have a look. I had got a length of wire I was using as a supply to 12v socket and some spade connecters and tools so I made a direct feed to battery to get me the 5 miles home, it had only take out the one wire. It was quite a bit of a scare at the time, but lucky that it happened where it did. So an occasional look at the security of electrical connections is a good idea!
  7. + 1 for battery. Last year mine had worked fine, on trickle charge in garage came to start nothing but a click, did not believe it at first! Chris
  8. Hi, Thanks for the information on glaze, budget rebuild, bodge with oil rings I'm starting to think budget rebuild / bodge are going to be more likely than glaze. I had a good look through the old invoices for work on the car and can find: Polish crank and chemical clean new camshaft Unleaded inserts But no mention of new liners and pistons as part of the 'engine rebuild', although the total invoice amount is not exactly budget, and no clue as to when they may have been done before in the invoices. Best regards Chris
  9. Thanks for the replies. Malcolm / Mike I had seen Mike's post from before which got me thinking it could be the low mileage and possibly the driving style of the previous owner that has not helped things. I don't think my style of driving has added to the problem although I don't think it has got much better over the year either. Thanks Chris
  10. Hi, Trying to work out how bad my engine is before having work done on it this winter, I just got a BMIHT cert. that says it is original to the car so going to work with what I have got. Car is 1962 TR4, standard engine specification. I not exactly sure what to make of the difference between the dry and wet compression figures I took today. The engine was rebuilt in 2001 by a TR Specialist and in the first few years was only driven a few hundred miles a year. Since buying the car last July I have driven 1400 miles. The exhaust smokes slightly on the over-run, which is commonly held to be valve guide wear, and also uses about 1lt of oil per 150 miles with some leaking as usual. Oil pressure when above 2,000 revs 50-60 lbs , in summer with hot engine at 750 revs 20ish lbs (once or twice 15lbs) after oil change and idle set a bit too low so I turned the screws a bit as it goes to stall anyway to get 1,000 revs and 25ish lbs. Dry 155 149 151 153 All within 4% = good 199 195 190 200 All within 5% = good, but 26 - 31% more than dry So no obvious rogue cylinder problem yet all showing high increase, so are they all worn or never made a good seal from the rebuild, or is there something else going on? I have read in other threads that not running an engine much after a rebuild does not help. Which makes me wonder what is going on, engine rebuild 16 years ago and only 3,500 miles driven. Although the dry figures look okay it is just a basic tester and you can only judge between your own reading so both sets could be higher than 'normal'. I'm not thinking of having the same TR specialist rebuild it anyway, but it should not really be having problems yet should it? Photos of plugs attached, they all looked okay to me? Thanks Chris
  11. Hi Malcolm, Yes I go to the Stoke group, I have had other TRs before going back 20 plus years with a big gap before the TR4 last year. I have a fair idea of what I want, I'm considering the ways to get it really at the moment. Hi Peter, I attended your supercharging talk at IWE 15 and have read your blog on the subject with interest. Thanks Chris
  12. Thanks for the replies. I do understand what you are saying regarding collectability/resale, which was one of my main concerns. So I guess you have to pay one way or another for more performance. I will be getting some detailed quotes for work on the original engine soon. Chris
  13. I have a 1962 TR4, which is in almost standard form that I have owned for nearly 18 months. This winter I am going to have a number of items uprated / changed to increase reliability and performance. I have found searching the forum and reading Roger Williams book ‘How to improve TR2-4A’ very useful. Now to the question at hand, having looked at different options for more performance, would a swap to the Dolomite Sprint engine be feasible and has anyone done it before? I have seen a thread on using a Dolomite gearbox in a TR6, so I’m guessing that using a TR4 gearbox with overdrive on a Dolomite engine is not too much of a problem? I know that I could get good performance out of the standard TR4 engine, but that does come at considerable cost so I have been looking at the alternatives and this option so far looks interesting. Thanks Chris
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