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  • Cars Owned:
    1973 Spitfire 1300
    1978 Spitfire 1500
    1981 Spitfire 1500
    1974 CR
    1972 CP

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  1. Here’s a picture of my UK 1972 car if it helps
  2. Couldn’t agree more with Peter’s comments, I’ve looked to replace my windscreen rubber the other day, most of the rot was inside hidden behind the trim. The outside looked perfect. I’m now off the road until fixed up!
  3. Perfect thanks. I’ll get that sorted out.
  4. So the red cables from the loom runs between the inner and outer balance skin and out to the bumper lamp? Assume it enters this by a gap I’ve seen by the back of the light? Mine currently as you see goes via the inside of the boot straight through both skins via grommets and out on the centre line
  5. Would someone mind confirming the correct route for the lamp cables to the loom. Mine are currently through the boot board clip hole!
  6. Hi Waldi, having recently started mine from a rebuild, and had unlimited starting and running issues I found the following worked for me once I was happy I had everything timed correctly and a good spark... Disconnect the main fuel line to the MU. With the help of a friend and the pipe in a collection pot run the pump for a short period to ensure the system from the tank is fully primed Attach fuel pressure gauge to MU and set to recommenced psi (monitor during the cranking process) Set butterflies using cigarette paper Open MU fuel lever fully with the butterflies opening correctly on the cam Use no additional throttle until it catches good luck Alan
  7. Hi Bruce, yes, I’m havimg the head refurbished as part of this process, I currently have red stripe springs which I believe are standard. As well as this ive ordered a Newman cam and followers and will be putting in a custom thrust washer set in as part of the overall engine refresh.
  8. Yes sound advice from both of you. Now I have the bits back Im going to complete a dry build and measure up to determine the best next step.
  9. Thought Id provide an update since the engine is out, stripped and has been inspected. It would appear from the analysis that at sometime in the past the block may have been skimmed, at TDC the pistons are 28 thou ish out of the block causing number 1 in particular to hit the head. This only manifested itself when I changed the head gasket to a Payen one which when compressed is around this depth. Plan now is to fit a thicker copper gasket to solve this issue. Pictures attached, all other components checked and found to be undamaged and in spec. This problem was not a problem before the head gasket was changed out!
  10. Hi, yes, no change. Its definitely coming from the upper block area. Thanks for your suggestion. Alan
  11. Yes Ill give that a go, just mustering up the enthusiasm to take it out, I might pull the whole lot out and check it all over while Im at it. Probably easier in the end.
  12. Hi Mike, only when setting the valve clearances and its only noticeable when its running
  13. Thanks Waldi, Ive been suspecting the cam, just wanted some other opinions before I take on the effort to strip it all down. Alan
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