[Brake fluid disappears?]

Hi, just had my M/C resleeved by these guys. Good service and easy to deal with.

Steve

 

[Sticky Clutch syndrome; Which clutch to replace it with?]

Hi, the part number for the dowel bolts is 132782. Obtainable from Moss or TRGB. 2 needed.

[Tr6 CR distributor pedestal gasket question]

Andy,

The Brown Book gives details of adjusting the end float of the distributor drive. Gaskets are sometimes needed under the pedestal to obtain the correct end float.

Steve
 

 

 

 

Steve

[Artificial intelegence's view of what a TR6 is]

Never seen a four cylinder 2.5 litre straight six!

[New purchase]

On 8/27/2022 at 4:14 PM, Swscar said:

Hi all

 I’ve just in the process of buying a 1974 CR and would like to know the sort of spares and tools I should carry with me. I live in Devon and also want to find a good experienced garage. 
any help would be most appreciated. 
thanks

 Steve w 

Hi Steve, I am in Plymouth and am in the process of a full nut and bolt body off restoration of a CR car.

You are welcome to come and have a look at the completed chassis and suspension, would give you an idea of what to look out for.

Cheers

[TR6 PI fuel pump/supply voltage]

Hope this translation helps Julien!

Hello everyone and sorry to speak in French...it's better than a deplorable English... I have just replaced the oil seal of my pump and a few years ago I had recovered the permanent magnets and the brushes of my wiper motor for my pump in much better condition. The brass bearings are original and you can't find them in spare parts... I'm having trouble finding a standard exchange pump at the moment. In the meantime, I will also put a relay and a bigger + for the pump and the initial wiring will be used to power the relay. The mass of the pump is already taken directly from the trunk. Do you think it is necessary to change the 2 internal wires of the pump which supply the 2 brushes? They also seem too thin. thanks for your advices

[Plymouth Motor Show]

A chance to take your car out for the day.

 

[TR6 Seats]

+1

[Rebuilt engine won’t start]

Looks like CR throttle bodies, they have twin balance pipes. Did you set the metering unit timing as per the brown book? Page 153. 
Just rebuilt my CR engine, didn’t have a problem setting the cracking point of No 6  rotor hole. Had to remove the pedestal and rotate the pinion gear to get it within the limits though.

Engine started first time after bleeding the injectors etc.

Steve

[Lucas fuel pump on my 72 CP]

I had my original Lucas pump overhauled and reconditioned by Neil Ferguson. Runs much quieter!!

Steve

[Lumpy Misfire]

Hi Chris, had a similar problem with my CR car last year. Would idle and accelerate smoothly until about 1600 rpm then become “lumpy”, clearing at 2000 rpm. 
Checked the points, condenser, rotor arm, distributor cap, ht leads, coil and all ok. Checked the fuel pressure (106 psi), throttle body butterflies, checked all the injectors were spraying correctly. All ok.

Eventually bit the bullet and sent the metering unit off to Neil Ferguson for recalibration and set up. (Great service by the way) Refitted the overhauled metering unit, problem solved!!

Steve 

[Is colour everything??]

I could be wrong but info below from Rimmers paint chart shows that Damson was a colour for cars between 1969 and 1972. Magenta for cars between 1973 and 1974, a real 70’s colour. (Errors and omissions accepted to codes etc!).

Maybe Derek, saffrontr can clarify?

Personally am a big fan of originality and Magenta cars! 
 

Triumph TR6

Year Model Colour Colour Code(s)

1967-76 Triumph TR6 Black 11

1969-71 Triumph TR6 Signal Red 32

1972-76 Triumph TR6 Pimento Red 72

1973-75 Triumph TR6 Carmine 82

1969-72 Triumph TR6 Damson 17

1971-73 Triumph TR6 Sienna 23

1974-75 Triumph TR6 Maple 83

1976 Triumph TR6 Russet Brown 93

1967-72 Triumph TR6 Jasmine 34

1967-72 Triumph TR6 Saffron 54

1973-75 Triumph TR6 Mimosa 64

1975-76 Triumph TR6 Topaz 84

1976 Triumph TR6 Inca 94

1967-70 Triumph TR6 Conifer Green 25

1969-71 Triumph TR6 Laurel 55

1972-73 Triumph TR6 Emerald 65

1975-76 Triumph TR6 British Racing Green 75

1975-76 Triumph TR6 Java Green 85

1967-71 Triumph TR6 Royal Blue 56

1971-74 Triumph TR6 Sapphire Blue 96

1973-74 Triumph TR6 Mallard Blue 106 

1973-75 Triumph TR6 French Blue 126

1975-76 Triumph TR6 Delft Blue 136

1976 Triumph TR6 Tahiti Blue 146

1967 Triumph TR6 Wedgewood Blue 26

1967 Triumph TR6 Valencia Blue 66

1973-74 Triumph TR6 Magenta 92

1967-76 Triumph TR6 White 19

Steve

[stainless steel bumpers]

Any one bought these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Quality-Triumph-TR6-Front-Bumper-Assembly-Stainless-Steel-Part-no-822530-/403395860602?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[Heater cable not long enough?]

Footwell illumination on/off on CR cars.

[Best injection upgrade]

2 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Neil,

there is no need to convince me!
You did an excellent job on my PI equipment, is was one of the very few “fit and forget” items during my restoration.

Cheers,
Waldi

 

[Front Bumper Fitting]

Hi, Kelly, have sent you a pm regarding the bumper.

Steve

[Clicking noise from rear when changing gear and taking up drive]

Had a similar clicking noise. Found a small crack on the diff bridge, once welded no further clicking. Worth checking the bridge as well as the mounting pins.

[Gearbox and overdrive rebuild]

Just had my gearbox, overdrive and differential rebuilt by Pete Cox. Reasonable price and great service. Highly recommended.

[Original steel fuel, brake and clutch pipes]

Thanks Stuart, have got the Brown book, couldn’t find the info. Reckon on some more bedtime reading!

Steve

[Original steel fuel, brake and clutch pipes]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

3/16" for brakes/ 5/16" for clutch and 3/8" for fuel delivery / 3/16" for fuel return. Buy yourself a brown book, all the details are in there.

Stuart.

[Original steel fuel, brake and clutch pipes]

Thanks Stuart.
Do you know the correct diameters for the various lines, brake, clutch, fuel (105 psi), fuel return?

Thanks

 

[Original steel fuel, brake and clutch pipes]

Am in the process of a body off restoration of my 1973 CR series car and trying to retain as much originality as possible. I would like to replace the fuel pipes, brake pipes and clutch pipes with the original steel type. (Not a fan of seeing copper pipes in the engine compartment or along the chassis.

Can anyone advise on a firm that can supply preformed pipes in steel or supply the correct dimensioned pipe with fittings?

Thanks and keep safe

Steve

[So what happening in your garage this weekend?]

Greetings Mick, I have discussed this very point when the lift was assembled earlier in the year. I needed to move the lift to get a bit more room in the garage before lifting off the body. Bearing in mind the weight of the stripped body shell and the height it needed to be raised, I had no concerns for this exercise, of using it not bolted down. 
Cheers Steve
 

[So what happening in your garage this weekend?]

Hi Hamish, thanks for the good wishes. The ramp is designed by the manufacturers to be moved on wheels (which are removable) when required. The lift is not in its normal location in the garage at the moment so the bolts are not fitted. Normally it is bolted down.

The car is a basket case! It has been in a big collision at some time in the distant pass. Will be replacing the chassis and the majority of the panels forward of the B pillars! Got to keep these Magenta cars on the road! 

Steve

[So what happening in your garage this weekend?]

Finally got the shell off! Restoration well under way.