RobG
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Posts posted by RobG
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What I do not understand is where this air goes as it is a sealed system. It gets purged out to where. Could it find its way back to the master cylinder ?
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Maybe it is a converted LHD from the USA ? Bit of a bodge on the bulkhead where steering column would have been, also first registered in 1987 mentioned. I would ask if there is a Heritage certificate included in the documentation. Also says 2498cc, amazing for a 4 pot or a typo or confused with a TR5.
RobG
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Stuart, what do you mean no paint code 25, not in red for sure but my TR4 has original plate with paint code 25 Conifer Green.
Have I missed what you mean ?
Must say that is the worst chassis plate I have ever seen.
RobG
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Gone a bit quiet this thread ?
What the latest news Neil ?
RobG
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Could you drain off a little oil, say half pint to see if any swarf in it, what about camshaft bearings, they would sound from inside motor block.
Know any friends (doctors) who have a stethoscope you could borrow.
RobG
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Michel,
My money on timing chain scraping timing cover. Good job spotted now and not later.
RobG
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Hi Neilson,
So this is the car we chatted about early on. I see you have had some great responses and advice since. I was away in France over the weekend so missed all this chat.
Good luck with making a decision. The advice you have got here, like it or not, is real and honest, even though only from pictures, take it all on board.
Consider the others on the market at £10k less, TRGB are a will known TR dealer and IMHO can be trusted to sell you a genuine car, and you can always get it resprayed to Royal Blue and still be quids in. That red one looks a good example.
RobG
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Michel,
Yes was a nice challenge, up and running now just needs some tidying, carpets and soft top. Most panels still original paint so nice patina, some would say needs a full respray to get all the panels the same, but I like the 'weathered' look. UK car with only 2 previous owners, overdrive and wire wheels.
Neilson,
I live in Newick, East Sussex, about 30 mins from Battle. If you want a look at mine for comparison, get in touch via PM. I know every nut and bolt on a TR4.
RobG
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Wow that looks a good place to start a rebuild.
This was my starting point.
RobG
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Hi Mark,
If it helps, my filter always stays full after running and petrol can be seen again at the next start.
I assume the fuel pump button valves keep the fuel in the lines, so I suspect your valves are letting it drain back.
RobG
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Wow. That looks superb and gives me the incentive to try and restore mine to that condition.
Time to do a Proper Job.
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Good time to do a wiggle test of the harness behind the steering column
RobG
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I have had a similar problem today and solved with an extra gallon of petrol. I recently worked on the fuel tank and lines and adding a drain/cut off tap and after replacing just would not start. Pump seemed to prime the carbs but not strongly. Looked up this thread and thought about pressure in the tank method. Noted the mention of MUST prime the pump and came to the conclusion I had an airlock at the top of the sight glass. So measured the height of fuel in the tank and is very similar to height of entry to fuel pump sight glass. So I added an extra gallon of petrol and hey presto this cleared the airlock.
Hope it might help.
RobG
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Rob,
That is a very good idea, thanks for the tip.
RobG
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Yep all good, though slightly limited agreed on fiddly bits. But I did get a nice beer mat included in my order.
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I am surprised already at £32,000 considering that is near TR5 prices and this is a non PI engine in TR4A. Very nicely done though.
Also honest description of bubbles in paintwork so paintwork needed in near future.
If that is what people want to pay though good for him.
RobG
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Peter supplied me with one of these a while ago and it was excellent.
This is a good opportunity, stick one in the cupboard for a rainy day.
RobG
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Nope, not dangerous, I had multiple backups all the way. Even axle stands had a backup.
Used some tips from the Egyptian pyramids, the block was rolled out on metal tubes, easy peasy.
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Hi all,
Just thought I would mention here for others who may get stuck with no engine hoist, tight garage and getting on a bit age wise. Lost all my oil pressure so a crankshaft regrind became necessary. Car in small garage and no access to a hoist.
You can get your engine out on your own with no hoist. I know it is easier to take the whole lot out with a hoist but I did not have that luxury or the room.
I stripped it down in situ, gearbox back, front plate off, car up on very sturdy stands and dropped the block out the bottom of the car.
Got crank reground, all new shells and tis back in ok. Might help anybody contemplating the same, you need to be fairly fit and flexible though.
RobG
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I need a used dashtop pad as mine is missing. Happy to recover one as I have the vinyl so if anyone has one sitting around please PM with a suggested cost.
Thanks
RobG
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Hi,
Deleted. I was thinking it was the first tube, sorry.
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MichaelH,
Yes agreed, I realise now they are interchangeable, and end float may be a knackered bearing.
Please refer to the other thread now, more details there, look for Live Axles, What the Heck is going on ...
RobG
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Peter,
For me to find out if the M86 would split it would be great.
Let's wait and see what I get back from machine shop.
In the meantime have a think how much you want for it and add on a courier cost as Pinner is a long slog M25 nightmare for me from Sussex.
Thanks
RobG
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Andy303,
Thanks for the pictures. In the first one I can see clearly the thin joint between the bearing housing and the hub flange.
On mine that is a really big gap with a wobbly housing. I am now more sure my problem is the knackered bearing causing the whole shaft to wobble and let oil pass the seal.
I have never been able to road test, let alone accelerate hard to see what other issues there, but won't be long, hopefully.
Thanks, RobG
Petrol overflow
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I had this for a while until I changed to the newer black float type and this solved it.
Possible old type and new ethanol petrol not a good combination.