colin3511
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Posts posted by colin3511
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Yes. Tonneau or hood cover.
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Tim,
It is a very crude gauge really. They are okay but remember they are now 50 years old. Get another one. Easy enough to change the dial and bezel, if you want to use one that isn’t off a TR6.
Colin
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Change all the plugs. Don't clean and re-use....replace.
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Is there not a slight difference in the piston areas? This would mean a difference in the pressure applied to each line. If you look at the cross section through the master there does appear to be a difference in the bore diameter. The force from the pedal is the same but the area it acts on is different - P= F x A.
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Kev, yes they were different and adjusted accordingly.
Thanks,
Colin
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Appreciate that Neil. Do you have any experience of noise related to removing the seals?
Thanks Waldi. Just seems strange that the only real difference is the stem seal removal. Not specific to TR's but having googled it there does seem to be a little correlation if they are removed, or if they have failed. I have fitted a slightly higher lift cam, so perhaps it is down to the valve springs maybe? Retained the standard double spring set up.
Thanks,
Colin
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After some recent head work I decided not to refit the valve stem seals fitted by PO. He had bronze guides with the recess to fit the seals. All back together and working well but a little rattly. Sounds like the valve clearances are out but I have checked them 3 times. Accepting there is probably more clearance between stems and guides, could the rattle noise relate to the stem seals? If so, is it possible to refit without removing the head? Is there a ‘lever’ tool available to facilitate the spring and collar removal with head in situ?
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Has the flywheel been lightened taking material off the gearbox side? I have seen this before due to this. The clutch plate hits the 4 bolts and gradually causes the damage as seen. Initially you get a grouching noise until sufficient material has been removed from the bolts!
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Motobuild near Heathrow.
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If they are heavy pitted you can't re-chrome them very well. All the pitting will remain. I would suggest replacements which are pretty good.
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Is 100 psi too high? Ran it with mechanical and electronic gauge side by side and they mirror each other.
Pedestal clearance checked when distributor was rebuilt by DD. Interested to know why you think of that though - oil pump disengaging?
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No, constant rpm and it will suddenly drop. May only do it once or twice on a 30 minute run. All 3 sets of PRV parts gave approximately the same psi reading. They were all standard springs and no washers.
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Use 20/50 Waldi. Hear your comments but I’m pretty sure the PRV is closed all the time this event happens. It wouldn’t suddenly open and lower the pressure. I could understand if it was stuck open and I suddenly gained pressure. I’ve tried 3 different sets of PRV parts as that was my first thought.
Engine was rebuilt by previous owner so not much I can do but investigate.
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It was chemically cleaned and galleries cleaned out with rods. Good oil delivery to rockers. Looks like sump off to make sure everything is okay.
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Really? The pressure is the resistance to flow back to the sump. Therefore are the bearing clearances too small? Alternatively the pump displacement is higher than standard, or the volumetric efficiency of the pump is better than standard. Can I complain that the engine is too well put together?
Concerning about the oil pump not being pinned. Could it fail completely, or just continue to slip?
Thanks,
Colin
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I can be cruising at 2000 rpm at a steady 75psi then it suddenly drops to 40psi for a couple of seconds. The PRV will be closed all of this time as it’s setting will be more like 90 psi, as it reaches 100psi on a cold start. It would be a highly inefficient system if the PRV was open all the time. It’s there, I assume, to limit oil pressure in the engine and protect the pump if a dead head was to occur.
The electronic gauge goes up to 150 psi so happy max is 100psi. I have removed and cleaned the PRV as well as swapping it with two others I have. Also swapped springs. No washers to increase spring force.
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I didn't Neil, but I didn't rebuild the engine. Can't see how this could effect it anyway. When up to temperature the PRV will be completely shut. It's there to limit the maximum pressure, not the running/hot pressure. I guess for protection on cold start or an oilway blockage.
Colin
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Alan, I have replaced the filter but it still does it. Anyway, doesn’t effect oil pressure as it’s just to allow oil to the bearings if the filter becomes blocked. The gauge reading shouldn’t change. I think that’s correct.
Colin
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No oil cooler Tim.
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Relatively newly built engine (1200 miles). Oil pressure is 100psi cold and 75psi when hot (@ 2000 rpm). The strange thing is that I quite regularly see a blip in the oil pressure as it drops to 40-50psi for a second or two. I fitted an additional electronic pressure gauge which replicated the mechanical gauge. As the PRV is only limiting the maximum pressure it can’t be that. Any ideas?
Thanks
Colin
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Hi Mark,
I am the guilty party here - sorry. It came with a pile of other TR spares when I bought my car back in November. I realised it wasn’t steel so just looked at the Rimmers site to see what it was made from, hence the assumption. Never thought for a moment there would be an issue. There are piles of receipts so I will go through them and see if said carrier is there and who supplied it. I wonder why it wasn’t fitted by PO? Perhaps he knew. Then again he said he would put the spares in a skip if I didn’t want them!
I’ve just had the gearbox out too due to a broken clutch shaft lever, so I know what a pig it is. Incidentally it had those slippers on the sleeve which I’d not seen before. From an engineering perspective they are much better than the pins.
You are more than welcome to return it to me and I’ll refund you.
Again, sorry for the headache, but at least you didn’t fit it and then get an issue.
Colin
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Colin,
You suggest everything is OK when all inlets are covered. Do you mean you have covered all 6 'trumpets' thereby ruling out the butterflies not closing sufficiently? That's how I understand it anyway. If so, have you lost or damaged an air tube/balance pipe plug in one of the manifolds? Have you got excessive movement in the spindle holes allowing air in? One of the 3 top connectors are letting in air (think they are 1/2" BSP ports)? Won't take much to realise 3,000 rpm.
Colin
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Chrome light surrounds
in TR6 Forum
Posted
You can get them rechromed if they aren’t too pitted. If they are, live with them or buy new ones. The new ones will transform the rear.