Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by colin3511

  1. Kev, yes they were different and adjusted accordingly. Thanks, Colin
  2. Appreciate that Neil. Do you have any experience of noise related to removing the seals? Thanks Waldi. Just seems strange that the only real difference is the stem seal removal. Not specific to TR's but having googled it there does seem to be a little correlation if they are removed, or if they have failed. I have fitted a slightly higher lift cam, so perhaps it is down to the valve springs maybe? Retained the standard double spring set up. Thanks, Colin
  3. After some recent head work I decided not to refit the valve stem seals fitted by PO. He had bronze guides with the recess to fit the seals. All back together and working well but a little rattly. Sounds like the valve clearances are out but I have checked them 3 times. Accepting there is probably more clearance between stems and guides, could the rattle noise relate to the stem seals? If so, is it possible to refit without removing the head? Is there a ‘lever’ tool available to facilitate the spring and collar removal with head in situ? Thanks
  4. Has the flywheel been lightened taking material off the gearbox side? I have seen this before due to this. The clutch plate hits the 4 bolts and gradually causes the damage as seen. Initially you get a grouching noise until sufficient material has been removed from the bolts!
  5. If they are heavy pitted you can't re-chrome them very well. All the pitting will remain. I would suggest replacements which are pretty good.
  6. Is 100 psi too high? Ran it with mechanical and electronic gauge side by side and they mirror each other. Pedestal clearance checked when distributor was rebuilt by DD. Interested to know why you think of that though - oil pump disengaging? Thanks
  7. No, constant rpm and it will suddenly drop. May only do it once or twice on a 30 minute run. All 3 sets of PRV parts gave approximately the same psi reading. They were all standard springs and no washers. Thanks
  8. Use 20/50 Waldi. Hear your comments but I’m pretty sure the PRV is closed all the time this event happens. It wouldn’t suddenly open and lower the pressure. I could understand if it was stuck open and I suddenly gained pressure. I’ve tried 3 different sets of PRV parts as that was my first thought. Engine was rebuilt by previous owner so not much I can do but investigate. Thanks
  9. It was chemically cleaned and galleries cleaned out with rods. Good oil delivery to rockers. Looks like sump off to make sure everything is okay. Thanks
  10. Really? The pressure is the resistance to flow back to the sump. Therefore are the bearing clearances too small? Alternatively the pump displacement is higher than standard, or the volumetric efficiency of the pump is better than standard. Can I complain that the engine is too well put together? Concerning about the oil pump not being pinned. Could it fail completely, or just continue to slip? Thanks, Colin
  11. I can be cruising at 2000 rpm at a steady 75psi then it suddenly drops to 40psi for a couple of seconds. The PRV will be closed all of this time as it’s setting will be more like 90 psi, as it reaches 100psi on a cold start. It would be a highly inefficient system if the PRV was open all the time. It’s there, I assume, to limit oil pressure in the engine and protect the pump if a dead head was to occur. The electronic gauge goes up to 150 psi so happy max is 100psi. I have removed and cleaned the PRV as well as swapping it with two others I have. Also swapped springs. No washers to increa
  12. I didn't Neil, but I didn't rebuild the engine. Can't see how this could effect it anyway. When up to temperature the PRV will be completely shut. It's there to limit the maximum pressure, not the running/hot pressure. I guess for protection on cold start or an oilway blockage. Colin
  13. Alan, I have replaced the filter but it still does it. Anyway, doesn’t effect oil pressure as it’s just to allow oil to the bearings if the filter becomes blocked. The gauge reading shouldn’t change. I think that’s correct. Colin
  14. Relatively newly built engine (1200 miles). Oil pressure is 100psi cold and 75psi when hot (@ 2000 rpm). The strange thing is that I quite regularly see a blip in the oil pressure as it drops to 40-50psi for a second or two. I fitted an additional electronic pressure gauge which replicated the mechanical gauge. As the PRV is only limiting the maximum pressure it can’t be that. Any ideas? Thanks Colin
  15. Hi Mark, I am the guilty party here - sorry. It came with a pile of other TR spares when I bought my car back in November. I realised it wasn’t steel so just looked at the Rimmers site to see what it was made from, hence the assumption. Never thought for a moment there would be an issue. There are piles of receipts so I will go through them and see if said carrier is there and who supplied it. I wonder why it wasn’t fitted by PO? Perhaps he knew. Then again he said he would put the spares in a skip if I didn’t want them! I’ve just had the gearbox out too due to a broken clutch s
  16. Colin, You suggest everything is OK when all inlets are covered. Do you mean you have covered all 6 'trumpets' thereby ruling out the butterflies not closing sufficiently? That's how I understand it anyway. If so, have you lost or damaged an air tube/balance pipe plug in one of the manifolds? Have you got excessive movement in the spindle holes allowing air in? One of the 3 top connectors are letting in air (think they are 1/2" BSP ports)? Won't take much to realise 3,000 rpm. Colin
  17. colin3511

    Oil Pump

    If you check the website he only offers one now. This is due to tolerance improvements on the standard one.
  18. Just keep an eye on things as you use the car. I had 2 CDD units fail. Brilliant customer service to to replace them but was never happy that they failed after less then 400 miles. I wouldn't use them again personally as there must be a flaw in the design or build quality. I am not the only one to experience issues too. Colin
  19. You need the bi-directional LED for the dash indicator light.
  20. Paul, Just did this. 1. Newman fast road cam £210 delivered. 2. Rebuilt distributor by Distributor Doctor £250. 3. Rebuilt head with bronze guides and hardened seats. Ported and polished £800. 4. Triple Weber’s £1800 including manifold and linkages. 5. Phoenix extractor manifold and single big bore exhaust. £800 but I picked a second hand one up for £350. Massive improvement on stock car although I have got new hubs, drive shafts and BMW diff. 165+ BHP. If you can do some of the head work yourself you can save some of the cost. Happy to answer any q
  21. Tested the fan in both directions and it appears there is little difference in flow from sucking or blowing. The fan blades are relatively simple in design so it makes sense you could reverse the motor direction. As it will only be a back up for the mechanical fan it will be fine. Now installed there is considerable air flow through the radiator. Thanks Roger H for the idea. Never even crossed my mind! Colin
  22. Malcolm, I have one but it is part of the whole assembly. I don't need it but I won't want to split it. I would try Neil Ferguson on 07977001571. I can take photos of mine if necessary. Colin
  23. Hi, Just wanted to share my recent experience so you don't end up doing what I did! Within the space of 10 minutes I went from a working clutch to not being able to engage any gear. No loss of fluid and lever seemed OK. Checked everything and then noticed the lever was pointing slightly towards the rear of the car. A tell tale sign the clutch fork pin had broken. Gearbox out to reveal everything was intact. Even the additional fitment of an extra bolt at 90 degrees. Resigned myself to putting it back and looking at the hydraulics. Very fortunately on putting it back I noticed the clu
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.