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mark_smugglers

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  1. Hi Keith am a bit behind you on the restoration, I think. But on my 1972 CP I went with the thinner ones and black sills. Am pleased with the result.
  2. You’re right Ed they are different. I think my confusion is more to do with the Automec pipes I’ve got. MC is I think 3/8 at front, 7/16 at back I think I have Automec pipe 1, which is 3/8 male at one end (so fits front of MC), 7/16 male at the other end (fits T piece). So that’s fine. However the other is Automec pipe 17, which seems to be 3/8 male one end (so too small for the rear of MC) and has a female fitting the other end (so I guess I’m missing a connector) Hope this makes sense. .
  3. Thanks mark. Much appreciated. So it sounds like the rear port feeds the front brakes and vice versa.
  4. Hi 1) Has anyone got a photo of where the two pipes from the master cylinder go down to the chassis (and then front and back). Specifically, do they go through the hole I’m pointing to (I don’t think so, but if not, what does?.) 2) Also, do they come down by the wiper motor (ie the flat bit shown top right) or come down nearer the battery (top left). Sometimes it’s the simplest things that there are no pictures of! 3) Finally,: does the front port of master cylinder go to the t piece and to the front brakes, and the rear from master cylinder feed the back, or the other way round? I’m struggling with the two pipes left in my automec pipe kit and trying to work it out. Thanks all.
  5. I bought an old non-working one and put a Bluetooth amp inside it - copied from something I’d seen online: https://markstr6rebuild.weebly.com/radio.html
  6. Hi Stuart. What size, out of interest? I was also wondering if rivnuts would work through the combined thickness of headlamp bowl plus gasket plus car body but presumably if you’re using them they must do!
  7. Hi Are the headlamp bowls riveted to the body? I ask because I note the usual vendors sell a spire nut (moss part number FC2804). If there’s a way to fix them with spire nuts and self tappers I’d rather do that than rivet them. It’s not clear to me however, if I’m right in thinking that’s the use of these spire nuts, and if I am, how to fit them. Thanks Mark
  8. Thanks both. So I obviously routed the windscreen wiper clear pipe incorrectly. Which hole does that go through then? The one I have the oil gauge pipe coming through?
  9. Hi Quick one: does the oil pressure gauge pipe come into the car: 1) though the same hole I’ve got the Rev counter cable coming through 2) through the small hole I’ve got it coming through in this picture 3) some other route Thanks
  10. Pretty much. There is not a lot in it. Without the rubber, the bonnet fits fine. Perhaps, on close inspection, the middle could be marginally higher, whilst the edges are in line, but there’s not a lot wrong when minus the seal. But the thickness of the rubber is enough to keep it proud in the middle. I might try your block of wood trick, although the car is painted now so I’m a bit reticent. I did offer up an off cut from the boot runner (I.e. round tube on top) and that was better - it allowed the bonnet to get a bit lower. Although I think I’d still need to lengthen the bonnet catch in order to latch. Regards Mark
  11. I tried it both ways Stuart. Am I right in thinking it points towards the rear? Either way, the bonnet doesn’t shut. Are you aware of any different profiles/ smaller rubbers? It seems to be too high in the middle Thanks
  12. Yep. Mine is a 1972 rhd UK registered PI.
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