mattyb
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Posts posted by mattyb
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6 hours ago, Richard Pope said:
I used Kingsdown and had no problems at all. However it turned out they used a shipping company (in Southampton) and in fact I dealt with them direct for the most part. It also turned out that I could have simply gone to them in the first place rather than an agent. They were very good and kind of wished I had.
I was surprised at how easy the whole thing was. In fact a doddle. My seller took the TR6 to Houston docks and checked in the car. I waithed a few weeks for the car to be shipped. I got an app to monitor the ship's progress. I got a call from the Southampton shippers saying I could collect the car. So, so simple.
Richard - that's interesting as my car went to Southampton - can you give me the name of the Southampton Shipping Company - their name might be on the import paper work I have, but I must confess, it didn't register with me
many thanks in advance
Matt
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50 minutes ago, stuart said:
Thats not bad, theyre often like this!
Very true Stuart - ended up doing this anyway -
Mike -hopefully will be well worth your plenum -
cheers Matt
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Rubber hose plenum outlet top right of picture - resulting rust bottom of picture.......
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The UK is still the " car convertible capital " of Europe - My experience of a British roadster left outside in the winter was damp carpets - to avoid this, I'd remove the carpets in the Autumn and enjoy the wonderful experience of a crisp winters day with the top down !. Leave the carpets in, Waxoyl and a "cockpit" type half cover would be a good way forward and the chance to enjoy your potential TR6 all year round.
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While not much help to Keith, when I cleaned the petrol tank of my Tiger Cub that had been stood for 10 year plus, I used Brick acid (hydrochloric acid) with a load of old nuts and bolts to agitate the rust, hosed it out with water, dried it and then used "POR15" . Inside of tank has been perfect for a good few years now - The only caveat is that the cleaning and POR15 treatment has to be done all in the same day, other wise the tank immediately starts to rust again - POR15 is very "runny" but seems to coat the inside of a fuel tank very well - I'll be treating my TR6 fuel tank with POR15
cheers
Matt
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Absolutely nothing to do with me ( I should be working on my car, not looking at other TR6's for sale ) but looks like a genuine "survivor" (provided the chassis good)
Back to the garage - pedal box converted to RHD (may need more peddle bending) and a big thank you to BlueTR3A-5EKT Peter W for selling me a RHD accelerator pedal
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Kenrow - many thanks - I will source a new flange
cheers
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many thanks for the replies
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Can anyone advise on the size, part numbers, threads size etc for the nuts that attach the upper steering column bracket to the 2 threads that are welded to the back of the metal dash ? (as per the items ringed in the attached image )
Many thanks
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Cheers Matt
thanks for looking anyway
all the best
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Brilliant as ever Stuart ! thank you for the reply and excellent pictures - 6 year hiatus on restoration so very pleased to be making some sort of progress
cheers
Matt
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1974 US car (CF) I'm replacing the front valance (very dented ) with a second hand US spec valance which I will alter for UK spec indicator/side lights along with UK spec front bumper - the inner wings look to be in relatively good original condition - alignment isn't too bad on first fitment (still got the very battered nearside (for the UK) to do - the nearside wing had a nasty dent in the headlamp bowl) - Off side wing (UK) is possible a pattern wing ?
Questions - the valance where it joins the bottom of the inner and outer wing, has what looks like a reinforcing section on it (see pic) which means, that as my original Inner wing still has the triangle shaped piece at the bottom front, that there will be 4 pieces of metal sandwiched at this point - should I remove the reinforcing section from the valance ? see pic
also the headlamp ring should also sit on top of the curve of the valance ? - see pic with screwdriver pointer
hope this makes sense and hopefully Stuart will be along to advise ! (will also trial fit the bonnet before welding )
many thanks Matt
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M
6 hours ago, matt george said:Matt,
I also fitted a J-type saloon box into my ex-US TR6. Overdrive Repair Services can supply a replacement flange with the correct hole spacing etc, which is what I used.
Matt
Many thanks Matt - was this featured in PC ? if so, can you remember which issue ?
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Many thanks for the replies - Peter W many thanks for the tip re the Moss catalogue - I have found the relevant section
Matt
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Trusting this isn't a daft question ....... I have acquired a saloon J type overdrive box and wish to fit this to my US spec 1974 car - the gearbox main shaft flange has to match the pinion flange - is it easy to swap the main shaft flange with part no 160292 J type box flange, or get the J type box flange holes drilled to match the diff ? If drilling, can this be done with the flange in situ ?
cheers
Matt
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f-xNWxEPe0&t=72s
Nice short youtube video (for those of us in a tight budget...... or just tight ! )
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Hi Gavin
Glad you got to the route of the problem - My personal experience - fitted a Pertronix ignitor to my 1958 MGA 15 plus years ago and its still working well today - I believe that the newer manufactured are perhaps more prone to failure ? - I still carry a built up DM2p4 distributor with contact breakers and condenser as a spare - just in case !
Happy motoring
Matt
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Was looking at the details of an MGB GT for sale on a well known UK selling site for classics, which caught my eye due to a recent large bill -
I'm I being pernicious at wondering at the level of experience or competency of a classic garage thats needs a "specialist mechanic" to set up and tune a pair of Skinners Union ? They don't do electrics either !
funny old world
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Martin many thanks for your reply and yes If you are able to send a picture, it would be most appreciated - I live about a mile from Revingtons and have already been into the Revington "shed" but with no luck - I'll try the other suppliers you mention, but I'm thinking that if I can't sort a pair of tubes, that it wont impact (no pun intended ) on the reassembly of my front bumper and associated bracketry - thanks again Matt
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My 1974 US import is missing (on both sides) the bumper support tubes that connect from the top of the later style bumper bracket (with tapped holes) Part no YKC 1743 /821467 - could anyone post a picture of these parts fitted in situ ? presumably as these were not fitted on early CP/CC models, I shouldn't worry too much about their absence ? (though if anyone does have a pair spare, do let me know ! )
many thanks
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On 7/21/2021 at 9:56 PM, poolboy said:
I and many of us over here have been using 10% ethanol fuel for a decade...My engine and carb components don't mind it at all.
BUT I don't have to hibernate my car with fuel stored in it and I doubt if any of the gas in my tank is over one month old.
I think that's where you might have problems with the alcohol sitting unburned in the fuel tank for a month or more..
There is a STABIL product called "360" for everyday use and another STABIL product for stored gasoline...I believe both those are for dealing with ethanol blended fuel.
As per poolboy - I've been using STABIL for 2 or 3 years now - its an excellent product and I use it anything that runs on petrol (including lawnmowers....)
Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 is also ethanal free but not available in all parts of the UK - again I think its worth paying the premium for it
https://www.facebook.com/rick.cunningham.1232/videos/781953749166566
If your willing and able have a look at Rick Cunningham's on the BSA Motorcycles Facebook page were he adds water to petrol with ethanal - very interesting !
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Cheers Roger - yes I bought a very nice set of metric ratchet spanners from Lidl !
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Thank you Rob - yes that's very much a possibility - appreciate your input
All the best
Matt
Importing
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Many thanks Richard -