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Everything posted by exint2

  1. This is purely an "out of interest" enquiry. Reading an article about the TR4A launch it contained the line " at that time Triumph standardised on the Stromberg carburetor" (slightly paraphrased) - but looking at various cars throughout the run that certainly doesn't seem to be the case. Was there any rhyme or reason as to what got fitted - was it just what was lying around or was it US cars got Strombergs and UK SU's or is the propensity of SU cars now due to "upgrades" made in the last 50 years - and is there actually any practical difference between the 2 (in performance or Economy or ease of keeping in tune?) Thanks Nick
  2. Unrelated work was a new OD Solenoid - but bad earth might be the answer - is it easy to identify?
  3. Hi All Odd one - after completely unrelated work on my TR4A (though lots of things got moved / disturbed) my Temp and Fuel Gauges have both started reading "Low". Prior to the Issue the Fuel gauge showed "Full" at full now it is showing just under ¾ after a complete fill. The Temp gauge is also under reading by a similar amount of needle movement (about ¼ of the sweep) Oil pressure and Ammeter are unnefected. Any ideas Thanks Nick
  4. Apologies for being a maths numpty but does 3.7:1 mean more MPH per thousand revs than 4.1:1 or less Nick
  5. Thanks for the help guys - Passed with flying colours (after I'd located a "dry" connection for the side lights!) Nick
  6. Hi Can anyone recommend a good MOT testing station in or around Milton Keynes Thanks Nick
  7. Hi All Thanks for the help - the answer was that the Alternator had not been fitted properly by the well respected garage I used (I'm not going to name names as I hope they will put it right) all the mountings were various shades of loose meaning under load it just didn't spin the alternator enough. 2 new bolts and general tightening and all sorted Nick
  8. Hi Rich thanks for the heads up about the voltage regulator - though I can't find the previous threads - could you point me to one - thanks!
  9. Hi All The meter is definitely the right way as it does register "negative" with the ignition on and lights on. what checks can I do on the charging circuit to see where there is a problem? How do I test the Alternator to see what it is outputting? Thanks Nick
  10. Hi all Quick question - just had an alternator conversion and my ammeter is showing pretty permanent negative values, (over a long run and a short town drive) should I ignore this now I have the alternator is is it still a sign that there is a net "loss" in the charging circuit? Thanks Nick
  11. Sorry to slightly hijack this thread, but I notice it has Stromberg carbs, my '65 4a has SU's, was it just a matter of "luck" what you got or was there reasoning about why UK cars sometimes got one or the other?
  12. Thanks for all the replies and advice! sorry for my typo - I most definitely AM going to get it all done in one go! Paul Harvey - Legwork I'm happy with, right connections - I have none
  13. I was referring to 130bhp at the flywheel (I think it was 104 standard?) So breathing and a larger bore seemed a good idea- be interesting to hear from others on here who have done this I'll be absolutely honest in that I have no idea how much a rebuild will cost - I can cost the various upgrades, but the actual work (which I know I couldn't do) I have no idea. I do have a reasonable budget (probably not enough :-) do the rocker upgrades give any advantages? I'm not looking to get it all done in one go - so won't be adding bits hoping for a couple of HP each time. Nick
  14. Hi Forum! My TR4A Engine is basically sound. About to put on the narrow belt conversion / alternator / electric fan. Already have a 123 ignition system and K&N air filters My basic question is - if I wanted to liberate a few more HP - up to about 130, what is the best way to do this , whilst still retaining the tractability of the engine and not stressing anything way more than advisable. I'm thinking that 89mm Liners and pistons are a good idea - are they? does a performance manifold make much difference? what else? Advise away Chaps!
  15. Almost fixed ...... or less intermittent (if that is possible!) Longish run yesterday 60 miles worked all but twice, but on both those occasions switching it off and then on again a few seconds later got it to fire ..... Thoughts?
  16. Thanks for all the advice Chaps. Seems to definitely be a dodgy connection on the solenoid wire that "comes out of the transmission tunnel" - I have replaced the push connector with a new one and soldered the connections rather than using a crimp fit only (I race RC electric cars so crimp fitting is an anathema to me!) - This does seem to have fixed it - however I am aware that I have "waggled" the wire at the solenoid end so that may have temporarily improved that contact which might be the real problem...... time will tell :-) Nick
  17. Hi I joined the Forum before I became a member of the Register - but they have not linked up - so my Forum profile doesn't say I'm a register member and I have to log into both separately with different passwords How can I fix this? Nick
  18. Hi Guys I can get a click from the solenoid most of the time (certainly more than when she is running) when the car has ignition on and in 4th gear but not running. Looks like it is an amp's issue I will look at the ammeter to check - thanks Chris though I think that Rogers "dodgy earth" might be the answer (as I've had a couple of others on the car) Nick
  19. Well it's not the relay! Following my previous thread I have replaced the Relay and the issue still exists - also I can feel the relay "latching" when I flick the column switch. My feeling is that the solenoid is not getting enough voltage to fire - reason being that when driving home in the dark last night and seeing negative amps it was even more recalcitrant than normal - also the indicator relay was suffering (I am fitting an alternator soon so these charging issues should be a thing of the past). However I'm not sure that explains why it is unreliable in daylight when ancillary current draw is very low. From the experience of the forum will the impending upgrade to my electrical system cure this issue or is it a "lazy" solenoid that needs replacing? Any simple tests I can do to establish either theory - or a different one! Thanks Nick
  20. Thanks guys Really appreciate the help form all of you Nick
  21. Thanks Justin - Final dumb question - Latching, normally Open, or normally closed type?
  22. Can this be substituted for a more modern alternative relay? (if so which) as I assume that progress in electronics would make newer models more reliable?
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