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  1. This is purely an "out of interest" enquiry. Reading an article about the TR4A launch it contained the line " at that time Triumph standardised on the Stromberg carburetor" (slightly paraphrased) - but looking at various cars throughout the run that certainly doesn't seem to be the case. Was there any rhyme or reason as to what got fitted - was it just what was lying around or was it US cars got Strombergs and UK SU's or is the propensity of SU cars now due to "upgrades" made in the last 50 years - and is there actually any practical difference between the 2 (in performance or Economy
  2. Unrelated work was a new OD Solenoid - but bad earth might be the answer - is it easy to identify?
  3. Hi All Odd one - after completely unrelated work on my TR4A (though lots of things got moved / disturbed) my Temp and Fuel Gauges have both started reading "Low". Prior to the Issue the Fuel gauge showed "Full" at full now it is showing just under ¾ after a complete fill. The Temp gauge is also under reading by a similar amount of needle movement (about ¼ of the sweep) Oil pressure and Ammeter are unnefected. Any ideas Thanks Nick
  4. Apologies for being a maths numpty but does 3.7:1 mean more MPH per thousand revs than 4.1:1 or less Nick
  5. Thanks for the help guys - Passed with flying colours (after I'd located a "dry" connection for the side lights!) Nick
  6. Hi Can anyone recommend a good MOT testing station in or around Milton Keynes Thanks Nick
  7. Hi All Thanks for the help - the answer was that the Alternator had not been fitted properly by the well respected garage I used (I'm not going to name names as I hope they will put it right) all the mountings were various shades of loose meaning under load it just didn't spin the alternator enough. 2 new bolts and general tightening and all sorted Nick
  8. Hi Rich thanks for the heads up about the voltage regulator - though I can't find the previous threads - could you point me to one - thanks!
  9. Hi All The meter is definitely the right way as it does register "negative" with the ignition on and lights on. what checks can I do on the charging circuit to see where there is a problem? How do I test the Alternator to see what it is outputting? Thanks Nick
  10. Hi all Quick question - just had an alternator conversion and my ammeter is showing pretty permanent negative values, (over a long run and a short town drive) should I ignore this now I have the alternator is is it still a sign that there is a net "loss" in the charging circuit? Thanks Nick
  11. Sorry to slightly hijack this thread, but I notice it has Stromberg carbs, my '65 4a has SU's, was it just a matter of "luck" what you got or was there reasoning about why UK cars sometimes got one or the other?
  12. Thanks for all the replies and advice! sorry for my typo - I most definitely AM going to get it all done in one go! Paul Harvey - Legwork I'm happy with, right connections - I have none
  13. I was referring to 130bhp at the flywheel (I think it was 104 standard?) So breathing and a larger bore seemed a good idea- be interesting to hear from others on here who have done this I'll be absolutely honest in that I have no idea how much a rebuild will cost - I can cost the various upgrades, but the actual work (which I know I couldn't do) I have no idea. I do have a reasonable budget (probably not enough :-) do the rocker upgrades give any advantages? I'm not looking to get it all done in one go - so won't be adding bits hoping for a couple of HP each time. Nick
  14. Hi Forum! My TR4A Engine is basically sound. About to put on the narrow belt conversion / alternator / electric fan. Already have a 123 ignition system and K&N air filters My basic question is - if I wanted to liberate a few more HP - up to about 130, what is the best way to do this , whilst still retaining the tractability of the engine and not stressing anything way more than advisable. I'm thinking that 89mm Liners and pistons are a good idea - are they? does a performance manifold make much difference? what else? Advise away Chaps!
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