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Brian Eldred

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Everything posted by Brian Eldred

  1. Eee tha's reet Pete. We take t'wheel up to top of Ilkley Moor then roll it all t'way down, balancing it like, to t'river Wharfe where we wash all t'muck off t'tyre like
  2. Thanks Ian, I've now found a place a bit closer to home - Knaresborough Tyres. They were recommended by a nearby restorer Pool Lane Classics, who use them for all their tyres and have fitted to many wire wheels. They are quite happy fitting customer supplied tyres too. I'm now trying to decide which tyres - narrowed it down to Vredensteins or Blockleys, about the same price. I guess its sensible to replace the tubes too, and I've read that Blockley tubes are good. Brian
  3. The Motorist at Sherburn doesn't have the kit. They recommend Longstone Tyres, who as well as being rather a long way away are v expensive compared with Camskills (Vredenstein Sport Classic at £163 v £116.) By the way when did tyre prices go up so much? I bought the same Vredensteins for my other car in 2015 for £63 each. Elsey Tyres at Malton don't either, but says they use a standard inner cone and a rubber outer cone that locates on the spokes (??) and have fitted and balanced lots of wire wheels including for customers of Malton Coachworks. That's where I had the other set fitted in 2
  4. OK I'm convinced! I kind of was anyway, just surprised at what the MoT guy said. To return to the topic, I'll call The Motorist at Sherburn on Monday. If no go I remember a place in Malton that was recommended by Malton Coachworks.
  5. Hi Rob, That's what I thought too. So how come an MoT tester thinks differently? The rubber doesn't 'feel' any harder than much newer tyres on my other car.
  6. Thanks Keith, I hadn't thought of them. As it happens, yesterday I took the car in to my local garage, who are experienced with classics, for an 'MoT-type check'. First time on the road, apart from a couple of runs round the block, since 1973 I believe. The mechanic that tested it said the tyres were fine, despite being around 23 years old. Firestone F560s. There's no visible degradation apart from some fine cracks between the treads, which he said weren't a problem. It probably helped that the car has been stored in a dry garage on wheel skids since they were fitted in 1997. I assum
  7. Hi Bob, The flap on the front edge of the sidescreen is actually a bit wider at the top than the bottom. If I lift the rear any more I'll get less of the top under the hood flap. I think I will have to live with it unless and until I can alter the hood and the front bracket. Brian
  8. Hi Rod, As I said I can't get the front to go any lower as the bracket is sitting on the door cap. It would take some cutting and welding of the bracket to get it any lower.
  9. This is as good as I could get it. The front won't go any lower as the bracket is sitting on the door capping, and the screen won't go any further forward. In fact when I close the door, the front edge of the screen won't engage in the slot in the stanchion by itself as it catches slightly on the stanchion as the door shuts, so I guess it even needs to go back a bit. On the rear bracket, I'm going to have to drill a 3rd hole in the wedge to get it to sit low enough. I've lowered the socket as far as it will go without having to drill through metal - they both now sit about 1/2" below the
  10. I found this, which has some good pictures at the end of the last page https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/back-to-tr3-sidescreens.81211/page-5 It looks like the screen goes further into the stanchion slot at the bottom than the top, and only a little way into the hood flap. Much more fiddling about to do
  11. Thanks Stuart. What I don't get is that the sidescreen won't slot into the stanchion at the top when I shut the door until the top corner is tucked under the hood flap. I can poke it in from outside the car, but not from inside! I guess I'll have to live with the misfit at the rear as its not going to move that far forwards. Brian
  12. Good afternoon, I know this subject has been covered many times, but I still have some problems I can't find answers to! I've spent several hours bending the brackets and frames and trial fitting the drivers side screen until It's pretty close I think, as pics below. The forward socket seems to be in the right place, but the rear one was too high and is at present unfixed. Before I screw it in place, some questions: 1. The side screen won't tuck into the hood flap at the rear, it would need to go about 2cm further forward. Is this just a poorly fitted hood? 2. Does the loca
  13. Thanks Andrew, rather a long way from Wetherby but if I get stuck.... I think its been said before but it would be handy if we could put together a list of fitters that have the kit.
  14. These look like the job, but at £216 a bit expensive for what may be a one-off job? My other TR has wires, and I've only had them balanced once in 8 years...
  15. Good afternoon. I need to change the tyres on my TR2 (unused but 24 years old!). Can anyone recommend a tyre fitter in the East Leeds/Harrogate/York area that has the necessary cones to balance wire wheels properly? Thanks, Brian
  16. Sorted at last - I made some cuts and bends until it fitted, fabricated some patches and stuck them on with JB Weld to save me getting annoyed with myself trying to weld with my ancient MIG welder. The cover is now back on the car. David thanks for the offer anyway! I spoke to a helpful chap called Adam at Moss tech dept. in January about the problems with the bracket kit and I'm going to email him with my findings. Brian
  17. Hmm, not sure how? Mine hits the starter bulge with the flange an inch off the floor. Revington list 3 different types for the 2-3A (second hand only). They will supply one in aluminium for £786.01
  18. Ian/Stuart, yes I think that's the way to go. My welding skills are not great but at least it won't be visible. Out with the hacksaw tomorrow...
  19. It looks like I have the choice of butchering my existing cover or getting a later replacement which would probably have to be fibreglass. Rimmers have a fibreglass TR4-5 one in their sale which they say is also a replacement for all the earlier steel versions. It would be a shame to chop mine as it's in really good nick, painted body colour inside and out. Don't know if there's a demand for original covers? Decisions...
  20. Hi David, I didn't remove a lot, should be OK. Of course if Moss modified the bracket so it recessed less into the chassis by 8mm, it would both increase clearance on the solenoid and obviate the need for spacers. Brian
  21. Hi Ian, I see from the Moss catalogue that TR3As post TS50000 have the longer starter motor and a different gearbox casing, so maybe the cover is different too? Brian
  22. Just to finish this off, I finally got everything fitted and gave it a test run on Monday without the tunnel on to make sure everything worked (I covered the end of the prop with a bit of cable-tied cardboard). Success! I ended up spacing the bracket a bit higher with some washers, giving a total of 8mm spacing above the chassis. I also filed out the hole for the solenoid somewhat as others have done. I'll feed this back to the technical dept. at Moss. Now I have the problem that the gearbox tunnel doesn't fit - it fouls the bell housing on the starter side, as the 'bulge' for the l
  23. https://www.facebook.com/100001790643346/videos/3743309495738702/ On the road at last! (just about). I've had several other threads going on the car - thanks everyone for the invaluable help. Just got to re-fit the interior now and get it down to my local classic-friendly garage to check it out and set the tracking. I have a good front bumper but the brackets don't fit, and I like the bumper-less look! Still have plenty of small jobs to do, and the sidescreens are proving a challenge... Brian
  24. I did this yesterday: I started by fitting the snorkel with some sealant, but couldn't get it all the way in the hole. Then I thought about the possibility of needing to remove it in the future for cleaning. So I pulled it out again (with some difficulty), sanded the paint off the end and refitted it with some copper grease. There's a bracket between the snorkel and the rearmost sump bolt, swapped for a longer one and a spacer, that holds it in place. Refitted fuel pump, job done. Brian and yes Bob 2+ beers were had last night
  25. Success! (and much relief!) I cut a slot in the plug with my Dremel using a flexi-drive and a cutting disc. Then one tap with a pry bar and it rotated, to be pulled out with pliers. Easy really So my new set of stubby drills didn't get used. No doubt they will one day... Brian
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