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  1. Hi Paul Did Weller wheels come back to you about fitting the hub cap pips to TR6 wheels? I'd like to go the same route. Thanks Colt
  2. This is worth checking as the Revotec was newly fitted, . Thanks to everyone for their replies, if the fan isn't the culprit I will go with the ARO valve.
  3. Thanks for the replies guys. Protek have just retuned the car and its running well again aside from the running on. Estimate on BHP is around 135 with the usual hi lift cam, 89mm bores, ported head, tubular manifold, higher compression etc. etc. so this doesn't help run on. I have tried the higher grade fuel and additive. Cooling is via Revotec fan that cuts in pretty early, coolant is 50% mix, cant recall make, Carplan possibly?. The car was fine until early summer and then it started. I will reset the tappets again as this wasn't done and its been a few months. Is the ARO valve Moss does the one to go for? Thanks Colt.
  4. Hey Guys, I had another thread which covered starting issues and running on. As this is specifically about ARO's I've done a new thread. I have been advised by a TR specialist to fit an ARO onto the inlet manifold as we have gone though everything else on the engine and ignition system but running on continues. This would introduce air into the CC when the key is switched off. My quetion is do they work? Has anyone used them? Any problems? I've done a bit of research and I believe they were fitted to a lot of 80's BL cars. Google shows the MG crowd using them. Would be grateful for any advice. I'm not keen to stall the car every time I shut it off. Thanks Colt
  5. Hey Guys, Thankyou for the input. I wanted to try a few things before I replied. I do have a Revotec fan, it wasnt causing any problems previously. The fuel is fresh. I fitted a new disti cap, rotor arm, disti clamp, HT leads and BP7HS plugs (replacing BP6HS) The old plugs were wet and a bit black. It ran better on the new plugs but it is still overunning for 20 seconds. On the hottest day of the year I needed full choke to start which isnt normal. The timing has been checked multiple times. Anything I've missed? Thanks Colt
  6. Just a standard non descript inline fuel filter Chris. The running on is really bad, up to 25 seconds. I've tried a different rotor arm. Next I will try new cap and leads but failing this not sure?
  7. Hey Guys, I charged the battery, cleaned the plugs and shook the inline fuel filter and it started, so not really any the wiser. I checked the timing and this was ok based on 4 deg BTC (is this right for a fast road set up?) It now starts but is running on really badly, like for 10 seconds running on. But 3 or 4 times it didn't run on. I checked the timing again after a drive and it was spot on. What other things can cause bad run on aside from timing as this must have something to do with the problem? Its quite a high compression head. We didn't mark the position of the rotor arm when removed, if it were 180 degrees out I assume it would run really badly or not at all. Could it still be engine earthing or arcing on the ignition system somewhere? I have ordered a spare points distributor, leads and coil which I may swap over to. Thanks again Colt
  8. Thanks folks. I will have to buy some points and try those. I have charged the battery as it was dieing and will recheck the volts to the coil. I did wonder if oil from the dashpots could get into the fuel easily hence stopping a spark? The level drops a bit and one of the diaphragms looked a little oily.
  9. Hi Guys, The engine was running one day and now won’t start. I have a spark and fuel, it’s on electronic points. Engine turns over freely. I have checked the ignition spark on the bench then on the car. Coil, leads, distributor all ok, I had a spark going to each plug on and off the vehicle. Distributor, electronic points, coil ,cap and leads were all new 2 years ago. Spark is a whitish colour. Plugs are wet, fuel is getting as far as the carbs. Have tried entering fuel into the carb manually and easy start just to check but still no start. Diaphrams on rebuilt carbs look fine. Compression readings on the engine rebuilt 1000 miles ago are 205 - 212 - 218 - 218 The timing hasnt moved...or at least the position of the distributor is the same and the bolt on the clamp is tight. The white power feed to the + on coil shows 11.9 volts on sitting and 8 volts when cranking over. I had loosened the dashboard to check the temp gauge but don’t think this has caused any issues and it worked while doing this, the ignition switch is lower down. What else could the cause be or I can check please? Thanks Colt
  10. Yes rule of 9 on setting the clearances. I'll follow that procedure Roger and see how it goes. One thing I noticed the nyloc nuts on the pedestals have only just enough bite with washers under them. Thanks
  11. ok checked, theres 4mm extra travel on each one when fully compressed. The end 2 where the bolts snapped aren't completely down for that reason but I still feel there's 4mm on those also. My gut feel is I weakened the bolts when I last pulled the head (we had a very long gas pipe on them) so I'm going to replace all 4 and see how that goes.
  12. Thanks. Yes theres a good 4mm there.
  13. Roger I think I misunderstood, the clearance on the springs is between the actual coils of the spring? I need to recheck that.
  14. Thankfully no bent pushrods. When springs are fully compressed theres no gap which is normal right? Picture attached. Notice shard of metal from either the head or bolt hmmm Next steps dismantle rocker shaft (it is a new one from Rimmers when engine built) Order shorter pushrods. I should hopefully be able to remove the broken bolt from the head, groan.
  15. I'll look at these things tomorrow thanks. Having read another similar thread I saw a comment by Stuart about pulling the head off with these bolts, I'm guilty of this I'm afraid as I had no lifting eyes on the head so I may have stretched the bolts as the head was well stuck in place? Where can I get lifting eyes? arrgghh!
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