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Tr6PI

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About Tr6PI

  • Birthday 02/11/1985

Profile Information

  • Location
    Italy
  • Cars Owned:
    1973 Triumph TR6 PI

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  1. I'm not purist at that level so i'm disposed to fit also the Volvo one if it's straight swap. Do you've more info about, a code?? In which volvo models have been fitted? If there're other straight swap servo available i'm disposed of course.....
  2. Hi Guys, It's seems that my brake booster don't has much impact in the braking force, i removed the master cylinder and the gasket between the rod and the brake servo body falled apart itself so i think that it's time for a brake servo overhaul. I've rebuild myself the servo about eight year ago but for my opinion the quality of the gaskets in the rebuild kits it's not as good as the original parts. Now the big dilemma; buy a new servo or recondition again my own unit?? I've read some bad things about new brake servos, the clevis the was too short to align with the hole in the pedal blade, quality not very high etc. I can recondition again my servo, but what rebuilding kit will have good quality parts?? The third possibilty can be return/exchange my unit for a reconditioned one, do you have any contact that can do this in UK or Europe?? I'm from Italy... Your valuable advices can help me to take a decision! Thanks
  3. For the weekend i will source a borescope and see what happen to cylinder n°5, thanks the the suggestion. Regarding the cylinder head, considering that the original was cracked between valve seats, i'd bought a complete reconditioned head about eigth years ago in UK whit inserts in the exhaust valves for unleaded fuel but honestly i don't know if they made a pressure test before and more important after all the machining work... the same for the block liners.... a big trouble now to check all this aspects.... Probably if i pressure test the coolant circuit at cold it will be OK, it's when all it's at the operating temperature to see what happen, what do you think??
  4. Hi Guys, I stopped again the TR6 for doing some works and fit a stainless steel exhaust system. After the removal of the exhaust manifold, i found the exhaust port of the cylinder 5 without normal black deposits but with some white deposits and basically clean. This can be related with the low but costant coolant consuption of my car, a misfire or what do you think??
  5. As always very professionals! Thanks! I will start with B curve like Neil advice. Also the Peter advice it's to take into consideration. Sometimes with old distributor i've had problems with engine knocking/pinking but up to now i've not understand if it's related with fuel mixture, advance curve, intake temperature........ i must to understand....the last time i've found the spark plugs dry fouled...
  6. Hi Guys, I'm planning to fit my TR6 PI with the 123 ignition distributor (number 8898 without vacuum port). As you know, it has 16 pre-memorized curves selectable by a rotary switch. My car configuration is basically stock CP 150bhp, original Lucas injection, fitted with a sport exhaust. By watching the original ignition curve of the lucas 22D distributor on the manual, the most similar curve of the 123 distributor seem to be the number 0 (zero). There is someone with more experience than me that it's using my same configuration? Which curve you have chosen on 123 ignition?
  7. Hi Guys, While working on my TR6 to fix some problems, i decided to replace the old starter with a gear reduction starter. For this project i'm using a gear reduction starter originally bought few years ago for a Triumph Spitfire (similar to the sample below) and a triumph spitfire solid aluminium starter spacer part number (photo below). I have some doubts regarding the engaging depth of the pinion in the ring flywheel gear. In particular: By watching the working area of old starter pinion, it engage the flywheel ring gear for a depth 10 mm, this was OK or my old starter solenoid is bad? See picture below. The new gear reduction starter engage the flywheel ring gear for a depth of about 8 mm (photo below), about half depth of the flywheel ring gear. It's enough or i must reduce the thickness of the triumph spitfire aluminium spacer?
  8. Thanks for the advices, when i will be ready to fire up the engine i will check all this things.....
  9. Thanks for the advise Robin, at this point i will speak with my varnisher for a "similar" color
  10. Hi Guys, I stopped the TR6 for doing some works. I want to take advantage of this stop for solve one little but annoying problem; the constant consumption of coolant from the expansion bottle, about 0,5 liters every three months of sporadic use, weekends basically. The engine has been rebuilt 5 years ago with new pistons, block liners, reconditioned new head (the original was cracked between valve seats), valves, guides, water pump, radiator, hoses... all the necessary. The cold compression test from cylinder one to cylinder six in bar it's: 12-11.8-11.7-11.9-11.5-10 The cylinder six is the lowest. When the engine it's hot, i don't see the water boiling, temperature it's good, engine run well. At the engine start i don't notice smoke or something like this. What can be?? Head gasket?? Crack on the cylinder head?? How to determine?? In the expansion bottle, from the beginning i have regularly this floating black deposit, not too much, in the expansion bottle internal side (picture below).
  11. Hi Guys, I'm planning to restore and repaint the original steel wheels of my TR6. They have been repainted 20 years ago with a wrong light silver without removing the tyres and lead weights. Which is the paint code used originally by triumph. The finish was satin or gloss? On the network i find the PPG code 33504 Rhodium Gray but i don't know if it's correct. Regarding the finish, in the rear of the wheel and where the old lead weights was located seem to be satin...... Regarding the paint, you prefer "modern" metallic paint with clear coat or old one component metallic paint?
  12. Many thanks to all for the help. I will try to see if the BL Repair Operations Manual can open a window in our immovable motorization agency here in Italy. If not, i will maintain my actual tyre profile 165HR15. Considering the low mileage per year that i do and the alternative to spend a small fortune in the Michelin or Pirelli, i think that the only solution in my case it's to refit Vredestein...... For Tom, i live in a small village near the coast of Friuli at half between Venice and Trieste.
  13. Hi Guys, I'm planning to replace the tyres of my 1973 TR6 PI. Actually i'm running with 165 HR 15 Vredestein sprint classic tyres but they are approximately 6/7 years old so they became hard and not secure especially in raining conditions. From one tyre some pieces of the sipes are blown away, seem that the rubber start to crystallizing. I'm watching if maintain the original 165 width reported on the car registration document or go with 185 width. In the crazy country where i live (Italy) we cannot simply and freely mount a tyre with different size than the dimension reported in the car registration document if first we don't modify the size reported in the car registration document through the motorization agency with a big headache, some money and various imprecations (this is why my country don't work very well). To do this i need a document written by Triumph company or from the actual owner of the Triumph brand that i think it's Bmw. I know that the TR6 cars sold in the US market was mounting from the factory the 185 tyres so there is any document that certify that 185 tyres are suitable for the TR6?? I have tried to contact Bmw here in Italy and first have written me that they don't know anything; after they have sent to me the link of Triumph motorcycle!!! I'm trying to understand if this change of tyre size it's bureaucratically practicable here in Italy or if it's like climb the Everest mountain without oxygen.
  14. Hi Guys, Thanks a lot to everyone for the help. I finally solved the arcane by buying the complete exhaust system directly from Bill944T. Thank you Bill! Rarely i found a helpful person like you!
  15. Hi Guys, I have an old standard Triumph TR6 PI 150 BHP CP series. Some years ago the previous owner has fitted the car with this exhaust manifold in stainless steel (bunch of bananas) connected with the standard mild steel intermediate double pipes. Now the rear silencer and intermediate pipes are rotting away so my plan is to save only the exhaust manifold and fit it with the Y piece, single big bore intermediate pipe and single exit silencer. I have made a lot of research on internet and from my opinion the manifold is a classic Triumph Tune bunch of bananas exhaust manifold part number TT1230S possibly sold by Moss. Some days ago i have tried to contact Moss by the form on the website but it seem that they are not interest to reply to the messages so where i can found the parts that i need (Y piece part number TH6003X, intermediate pipes and silencer TT5241S and fitting kit TT5201FK)?? I have seen that Racetoration has for sale a similar exhaust system: http://www.racetorationsuk.co.uk/page19.html It will be compatible with my manifold? About the performance of this exhaust system (bunch of bananas + big bore silencer) do you have any experience or advice?? I will loss torque in the midrange rpm?? Thanks for the help!! In attachment a pic of the exhaust manifold that i have found in the forum:
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