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Posts posted by Andy1966
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Forum, Spell checker !!!!
3 minutes ago, Andy1966 said:Thank you Dave, that why i love this form for the support it offers
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18 hours ago, Dave I O W said:
Andy you have a PM
Thank you Dave, that why i love this form for the support it offers
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14 hours ago, harlequin said:
You probably don't want to hear this but I ended up removing the Phoenix six branch manifold and refitted the standard cast iron job to cut down on under bonnet heat, and it made next no difference in performance.
I still have the standard looking Phoenix silencer but this winter it's off to a local motorcycle exhaust manufacturer for repacking, as I find the exhaust note to harsh. Having said that the quality and fit of the Phoenix system is first class.
George
George
Thanks for the feedback, ok that definitely helps me and makes me have a rethink
Thank you
Andy
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Phoenix standard look exhaust system with 6 branch manifold sound great.
Would be interested to know other owners comments, as its on my wish list for the future when the Boss agrees to let me buy !
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I read some where that someone suggested two gasket sets to seal these to the body of the car to stop water and exhaust fumes.
Can any of you knowledgeable chaps confirm one way or another ?
Thanks all
Andy
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Ian & Elclem
Thank you for your help i will have a look & give it a go this coming weekend.
Andy
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Guys I am currently stripping my car in preparation for a bare metal respray due to the dreaded micro blisters after 8 years of ownership, the car looks great from 20ft ! unfortunately even time you wash or wipe the paint for dust the blisters pop !!!
I am struggling to remove the windscreen wiper wiper mechanism from the top vent, the motor is off but the rack and the two drives don't seem to have enough clearance to come out the top vent.
Am I missing something obvious ?
Hopefully I will Get it back in time to drive it at some point this year.
Thanks in advance
Andy
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Roger, Rich, Andy, Bruce & Jochen
Looks like best coarse of action is to remove and inspect before making the decision to refurbish or replace unit.
Thank you for your support
Andy
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Guys I am looking for some advice on my Tr6 it a 1975 Cr uk market PI
My Clutch master cylinder has developed a minor weeping leak which has resulted in the paint lifting, clearly it needs fixing.
QUESTIONS
1. Should I repair with new seals or replace with new master cylinder.
2. Would you opt for a 0.7 or 0.75 inch bore master cylinder (there are no marking visible indicating bore size on the casting)
3. Where would you purchase replacement unit ?
4. Where would you purchase seal kit ?
5. What is the best clutch fluid grade or type, Cap states Dot 3 but would prefer grade that doesn't attack paint when I complete the repaint of the area.
6. Any little nuggets of advice to complete the job would be appreciated.
Many Thanks in advance
Andy
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A good dry lubricant is wax, I have lubricated rubber seals rubbing them with a candle and it worked on my car.
Andy
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On 11/14/2019 at 11:49 AM, jogger321 said:
I realise it a cheapy from china ...but it kind of looks the part and i'm sure will sound better than the 35 year old cassette radio in my car
Has anyone tried one of these out at all?I have one of these in my TR and to be honest its Ok, my only criticism is the FM station strength is not good at holding the reception, its got Bluetooth and you can charge your phone etc.
Amazing value for money think I paid £15 delivered
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This is what I did on my TR6 although I never installed a flame trap, I had some trouble starting when hot.
I have since returned to the standard plenum with K&N filter mounted to the front of the radiator which has helped.
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Adrian
I think the flat bar dimensions were 20mm wide by 2.5mm in thickness with very simple radius'd ends, I will confirm next time I go to my lock up.
To be honest I copied this existing MGF ones as a pattern, hacksaw, file and re drilled out the holes.
I have still not finished the skirt on mine to stop the draft coming between the seats.
Hope this helps
Andy
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Guys
Happened to find this recent upload on Youtube, really useful for understanding how the different components function before you attempt to repair or replace.
Enjoy
Andy
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Hi all
Starting ticking off the jobs for re commissioning the car for the coming season, anyway the problem I was having engaging overdrive was simply down to the Gearbox oil level being low.
Took the car for a run today and it engaged and disengaged really well.
Thanks for all your comments & support
Andy
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Thank you all for your support.
I will check the levels as a first check and report back.
Andy
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Guys
Took my CR TR6 out for a drive today and what was noticeable was how long the Overdrive took to Engage and Disengage, seemed like forever say 15 seconds at a guess.
I have not noticed this issue before and wondered if you can offer some advice on where to focus my attention to resolve.
The gearbox oil I have is EP90 grade and I have not checked the level since early summer.
Any ideas would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Andy
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Steve
I too have a CR with a 996 pump in rear arch which reading the history of the car was installed in the 90's, I am interested to know what you opt for pipework and connections for the installation. I have already uprated the tank outlet, installed a tap and replaced standard triumph filter with Inline replaceable type as shown but think this set up could be improved.
Can you post some images of your pipework set up please
Andy
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Adam
For three years I had the three K&N filters in place with standard linkage on my CR model, I found it could be difficult to start when hot without choke applied. About one year ago I purchased an original Plenum and fitted single K&W filter on its end, its definitely better at Hot starting now.
Hope the picture helps
Andy
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Steve
Really enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing this as removal of sump to replace gasket is on my to do list.
How's the chassis swap on the blue car coming along ?
Keep the video's coming !
Andy
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Dennis
I totally agree my son who is 16 year old generally comes with me to classic car meets, loves the gatherings & photographing the cars, funny enough he loves Austin 7's. However recently he had his school prom and I have been offering to take him in my 6 as most arrive in more modern prestige cars. He said "no way" too embarrassing to be seen in car with you !!!! I think the problem with him and my car was he would have needed to go with me on his own and if it had been say a stag that could have held 3 people it would have been OK.
You cannot win
Give it a year and he will want to drive it if he passes his test and I can afford the insurance cover
Andy
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Update
Took the car for a drive at the weekend as the weather was great and the wind deflector has made a difference, as stated I increased the length of the mounting brackets by 35mm to get the deflector height increased.
Image of brackets extended by 35mm, original on the Right hand side was 100mm centers between M8 clearance holes, now 135mm.
Not bad for total spend just over £50 so far
Question, can any of you advise me of what you have connected to the Bottom of the wind deflector to stop draft between the seats ? I am assuming leather/pvc material strip, is this correct ?, pictures would be fantastic
Thanks in advance
Andy
Tr6 CR distributor pedestal gasket question
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Guys
I wonder if you can assist me please, I am in the process of refitting the distributor pedestal as my my pi metering unit has been leaking, the unit was exchanged through Neil Ferguson which looks great. He recommended I changed the distributor pedestal pinion shaft seals which I have completed, anyway when I removed the pedestal unit from the block I noticed mine didn't have any gasket between the block and the pedestal casting.
Is this normal on some cars, or should I add a gasket ?
Andy