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About MortenHoyseth

  • Birthday 11/17/1974

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 / Jag Mk2
  1. Dear all - case closed ! Finally - after 1,5y of problems after rebuild, the TR6PI now runs like charm. First test drive yesterday - first in 4 years. A truly religious moment to me. This last problem, with it running very rich, was that the datum linkage had become detached (thanks Neil for your help on this!). After that was fixed, no more black smoke and a good idle. Still it had problems reving and ignition was far too advanced (but had to, to make it run). No vaccum leaks found, but it was as simple as putting in new spark plugs and setting gap to 30 thou. Goes like a charm!! Oh, my -
  2. Excellent Mike, I'll test it out - thanks!
  3. My vacuum gauge needle is certainly jumping about. I blanked off the servo hose and measured on the hose to the MU. Have not tried like you describe, Bruce. However, I do not understand that the vacuum should be constant?
  4. @BlueTR3A-5EKT: compression is excellent, they are equal and compression is high (don't exactly recall the number, 11-12ish on my device). So seems - so far - nothing has been damaged by the extra fuel. @AstonTR6: I've got a CP manifold. Just to make things more complicated, the engine is a 2.5PI from '71, fitted in a '73 US car - rebuild in the 80s. So no guarantee that the manifold is original to the engine. The dizzy has been rebuild to work with this engine, and it works great now. The MU - well, I do not know if this was the one that came with the engine back in '71. I'm not aware of an
  5. Hi folks - just a quick update. My MU is on its way to Neil. I figured, better let an expert look at it, rather than me ruin it. If it was set incorrect, then GREAT, if it was all set correct - then I can eliminate the MU from the list of potential sources. I'll update this thread when I get it back. QUESTION: anyone experienced air entering via the injector holes? The injectors with the plastic screw-on seems tight, but the ones with push-on (or whatever they are called, they don't have threads) I suspect is not air tight.The O-ring outside the plastic is tight, but there might be leaks bet
  6. Nick, good point - I haven't done that yet, but I will provide all relevant specs.
  7. Neil/k_raven_smith - an offer I cannot refuse Thanks. I'll send you a personal message.
  8. Hi Mike - the enrichment lever seems ok, there is certainly free play. I'll measure it.
  9. Alan, regarding measuring the vacuum. On the manifold: I blanked off the servo hose and disconnected the hose in front to air filter. Disconnected the hose to the MU at the MU side, and put in a measuring device. Then fired up. Very uneven idle (as "always) but: 1. Vacuum needle (on the measuring device) was jumping from 0-5 inHg constantly a few times pr. sec. Is this normal or should it be at a steady level? I did not touch the trottle during this. 2. I now seemed to have more control over idle rpm with the idle adjustment screw on the manifold - I could easily get it to 1000rpm. This mo
  10. Mike - as far as I can see with the MU fiten on the pedestal, the enrichment lever is returning fully to base position (towards the fire wall).
  11. Alan - regarding petrol powered cars in Norway - spot on, I better get the car running now 1) Peter - I disconnected the vacuum hose at the manifold, put on a manual vacuum pump with a meeter, and the vacuum holds and seems very stable. when the Vacuum is released, a click can be heard from the MU. So it sounds ok? 2) Also when idling, if I pull the chocke / rich mix lever, the idle is even worse and engine stops. So at least it does seem to work. 3) I have tried to disconnect the hose in front of the manifold (at the idle adjustment screw) going to the air filter/manifold - no difference
  12. TR6 PI running rich Hopefully my last post amongst a few due to post-engine-rebuild issues I’ve had. I have hope to actually drive the TR6 during summer. Problem now is that it is running VERY rich – soot on plugs building up at an impressive pace, and from the tail pipe black smoke. It gets too much fuel, but I do not know why. PRV checked and gives about 106psi MU rebuild by Prestige Injection – run 3 km since rebuild. Not fiddled with it. All injectors are new and checked. Ignition is not perfect, but ok, static 12 dgr BTDC. No air leaks in the hose from manifold to MU. New hose, clamp
  13. Alan (oldtuckunder) - right you are Now the car runs and the issue left is minor (as far as I know) - looking positive for summer drive. Sorry that I'm so slow with feedback, I gets late in the evening before I can (..are alowed to) go out in the garage. So - I haven't been driving it yet. Except from that the steps are spot on. I'll elaborate more one I've taken it for a drive and can verify that it actually runs. Cheers, Morten
  14. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions. Alan - YES! I did as you suggested regarding switching on the wipers on when the car kept running after I switched it off. It stopped promptly. So it seems you are spot on. The Alternator feeds enough power back trough the ingition bulb/light to keep the relay closed. I decided to open up the dash entirly prior to this, as there are some "legacy" wiring from previous owners that I now have cleaned away. Not connected to anything. Q1: As switching on the wipers to stop is not a long term solution, I'm thinking a diode on the white wire going to the ig
  15. Thank you for all suggestions. Highly appreciated. The car starts easily now. That part seems to be fixed. It idles nicely. The car will not stop after switching off the ignition, nor when cutting battery supply entirely. And it runs and runs and runs… I’ve removed dash etc. to get good (well..”good”) access to wiring. Starting with the brown wiring from alternator/battery, switches, fusebox and ignition. Seems to be in good shape. I’m looking for something that feeds enough energy back to the relay operating the coil/fuel-pump. The energy must be produced by the alternator. Gone through the
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