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About Rawls

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  • Location
    North Herts/South cambs
  • Cars Owned:
    Currently TR4A, past cars include 2 x TR6's and Austin Healey.

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  1. Mig weld should be fine with this, start at opposite ends alternating to minimise the heat area. You could use a heat sink on the inside, like a large solid piece of steel or bronze if you’ve got it.
  2. Prep the surface to be welded using a stainless steel wire brush (keep it only for aluminium!) no need for acetone.
  3. Hi Ron, I’ve had the same issues as you describe, I recommend one of these units. Mike https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254122488000
  4. As Roger says, if move the hole on the hand brake lever it really does make a big difference and is an easy no cost improvement. Mike
  5. Hi Andrew, That really is a cracker! I’ve been looking for a project like that myself, did you get it from a dealer or find it privately? To remove ACF 50, I’ve found the best product is SDoc100 gel, white spirit will also work but not as well. Cheers Mike
  6. Monty, I am trying to establish what the 4a would have left the factory with, there seems to be various options for this set up now. However, it seems there are a number of owners that swear by the PCV. Should I have a vented oil filler cap with a PCV? Mike
  7. There seems to be a difference of opinion on this, is there a definitive answer to this question, 'should a 4a that is running a PCV have a vented oil filler cap or not'? My 4a has a PCV fitted and what looks like radiator cap fitted to the oil filler, it leeks a little oil after each run, but only the odd drop if left standing. Mike
  8. Thanks Stuart, I'll check for the air lock. Is the 110 equal to the GTR104?
  9. Hi Nick, Thanks for your reply, I have driven the car for several miles with absolutely no over heating issues, but I haven't been able to accurately check the temperature, it certainly felt normal. I haven't had the car that long so who knows what combination I have going on? In one of the threads I was researching, someone talked about a dry temperature transmitter/sensor, and no water coming out of the housing once removed. No water came out of my housing once I removed it, but it wasnt exactly dry. Is this normal - could I have some sort of blockage in this area? Mike
  10. Sorry to reserect this thread again, but there are so many variables that I cannot find anything in the search facility that matches my (similar) problem. TR4A 1965 Changed the voltage stailiser for the original type, both temp and fuel gauges worked briefly, then temp went up to the 'H' section, checked the engine and it's running at normal temperature, fuel gauge still working normally. The temp gauge moves ever so slightly from cold when the ignition is turned on (up to the 'C'), I pulled the connector to the temperature transmitter and earthed it and the needle went straight to
  11. I purchased some last year, they are very good - except the wiring. As Stuart says - it's not difficult to sort out.
  12. Hi Anthony, I have the lipped version H frame as Paul describes. I had mine re-covered by TRGB in Cambridgeshire, well actually they use a local trimmer to them. But I'm really pleased with the job and it was about £100. If you're not local you could post it to them. If you pm me an email address I can send you a picture of my H frame. Regards Mike
  13. Hi Charles, If you heat the little plastic clips up in very hot water - they should push into the hole without too much effort. Then when you go to apply the letter put a little WD40 on the prong to help ease into the plastic. This has worked for me, but others will probably be along with better ideas. Mike
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