marting
-
Content Count
61 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by marting
-
-
If you are anywhere near St Neots, Cambs, we can hook my portable PI monitoring kit up to your car and go for a short drive. It shows AFR, fuel pressure and vacuum in real time.
-
Hi Andy,
If there is no significant play, then it should just be down to adjustment. I still do audits and training for Habasit in Elland, so I'm up and down every couple of months, so can stick my head round your door if needed.
Kind regards
Martin – Fred Millturn Parts
-
Hi Andy,
Hope you are well. In the Fred Millturn kit, the overfuel lever on the metering unit is operated by the link cable attached to the fast idle cam. If you are getting full movement on the overfuel lever, the cam is rotating correctly. The CP fast idle cam in the kit has the same lift as the originals which is only about 1mm in total. This 1mm has to overcome any play in the linkages and butterfly spindles and then open the butterflies by a tiny amount. The clearance gap specified in the manual is fine when everything is new, however, 1mm of lift can be easily lost if there is play in the countershaft, linkage rods, swivel posts and butterfly spindles. As such, ignore the gap specified in the manual and adjust the screw that acts on the fast idle cam until you get the butterflies to open and close on the fast idle cam. If you have adjusted this and it is holding the butterflies open when the choke is off you have gone too far. Once this is in the zone, you then have the facility to adjust the increased revs with the amount of overfuel by adjusting the adjuster on the link cable. If you cannot get it setup correctly, let me know and I will pop up to have a look to see what’s going on.
Kind regards
Martin – Fred Millturn Parts
-
Sender unit attaches to Malpassi type PRV in the boot. Apologies for upside down picture
-
Electronic VDO gauge with Smiths petrol gauge cover
-
Very nice Conrad. Turns out the crash damage on my 5 was nothing compared to the damage caused by he tin worm, and there’s a fair bit of reworking previous owners repairs.
Martin
-
I decided to keep mine when converting to RHD. I modified the LHD loom and had to make the cut outs in a new wooden dash.
-
I’ve been remaking these for quite a while now. I do them for TR5, TR6 CP and CR, and also for Mk1 & 2 PI saloons. I also remake original spec countershafts, fast idle cam assemblies, butterfly spindles etc for all of the models. My rod assemblies are mild steel with zinc yellow passionate as original. Reckon I should put my prices up though! Also worth pointing out on a more serious note. I always believed that the swivel posts were the sacrificial part that wears and can be replaced cheaply. If you make these in stainless the wear will be in the countershaft and butterfly spindle levers which are more expensive to replace.
Martin https://fredmillturnparts.com/throttle-linkage-rod-assemblies/ -
Hi all, thanks for your kind words of support and offers. Conrad has come to the rescue with the most solid looking spare wheel cover I’ve seen for a while. Friends and club members have been amazing. I in addition to the spare wheel cover for the 3, I have also been offered original TR5 grille, bumper , over riders, front panel and valence. Thanks to all. Kind regards Martin.
-
Hi John, the TR3 is only cosmetic damage so should be straightforward. The 5 maybe borderline if chassis needs to come out for repair / replacement. However, I have salvage rights, so if insurers won’t cover it, I can buy it back do the labour myself and use the payout for parts, bodywork and paint.
-
Hi Rob, no injuries other than to the cars and my brother in-laws pride. We were 2 miles from home on the way for a short holiday in Dorset when he rear ended me in my TR5. Unfortunately that has not fared so well as it may have sustained chassis damage.
-
Anyone got a good spare wheel cover they are willing to part with? Not sure this will polish out!
-
I have my system set so it runs at 100psi. It works fine and takes some of the stress off the Bosch type fuel pump which is working at the upper end of its design spec.
-
I had a bit of a radical solution to this wanting to sort it properly as in normal times the car normally does 2 or 3 trips round Europe each year. I cut a hole in the boot floor behind the wheel arch and fitted a large swirl pot. This contains two Bosch style pumps. One is duty, the other is backup. I then attached cooling fins to the outside of the swirl pot so heat is removed from the fuel as you drive. If you then run into severe traffic on a hot day with low fuel as we did a few years ago in Strasbourg, you have coolish fuel in the tank to keep your pump happy. If you do cook a pump. A flick of a switch brings the back up on line. I also have a PI dash where the radio used to be. This has a fuel air ratio gauge, vacuum gauge and electronic fuel pressure gauge. There are some pics on my website under long distance touring upgrades heading https://fredmillturnparts.com/upgrades-and-conversion-kits/
-
Hi Steven
I have just had a rummage through my box of old injector collars. I have some of the design that are the same as yours. If you PM your address to me I will send you one out.
Martin
(Fred Millturn Parts)
-
Hi Stephen.
Are the linkage rods the aftermarket type? If so they are very hard to adjust and lock off. I can supply you with original spec linkage rods which will enable you to synchronise your butterflies properly without burning your hands on the hot exhaust manifold.
Kind regardsMartin (Fred Millturn Parts)
-
On 4/3/2021 at 9:39 AM, Andrew Smith said:
Glad you got the problem sorted Colin - would that be Martin of 'Martin's Fuel Injection'? If I remember correctly he worked out of his home garage in Essex in the 80's and really knew his stuff on Bosch and Lucas systems.
I thought Martin had retired many years ago - it would be good to know if he's back on business and how to contact him.
Cheers, Andrew
Hi Andrew
thats a familiar looking picture
-
Hi all.
My name is Martin Giles. Long time TR owner and member of the TR Register. I am on a bit of a mission to remake all of the the original spec throttle linkage and mechanical PI parts that the big suppliers list as no longer available.
I currently can supply just about everything for CP cars. I have just finished making a twin to single choke cable conversion kit that TRGB will be launchingI’m trying to build up the services and products that I can provide with a view to make it cover its own costs / or even make a return by the time I retire in a year or two. More details are on the website https://fredmillturnparts.com/
I have just finished making throttle and choke assembly for CR cars which are not listed on the website yet. Next on the list is throttle spindles for CR throttle bodies with removable arms that enable the fitment of sealed bearings.
Get in touch if you need any assistance with CP CR or 2.5pi linkage parts or throttle body reconditioning or EFI mods.
kind regards
The other Martin!
-
On 4/3/2021 at 9:39 AM, Andrew Smith said:
Glad you got the problem sorted Colin - would that be Martin of 'Martin's Fuel Injection'? If I remember correctly he worked out of his home garage in Essex in the 80's and really knew his stuff on Bosch and Lucas systems.
I thought Martin had retired many years ago - it would be good to know if he's back on business and how to contact him.
Cheers, Andrew
-
16 hours ago, John L said:
Martin
Mine do have the reinforcement around all the air balance tubes.
Also noted is the number 1 is in front of the letters DD.
My build date was 23 May 1968.
John
Hi John, the 1DD’s are different to the DD1’s. They are later but still appear to have been early enough to be fitted to TR5’s. The order appears to be: the throttle bodies with no DD numbers, DD1 with no reinforcing, DD1 with reinforcing around one air balance pipe and then 1DD. All of these developments appear to have been made whilst the TR5 was being produced. Then DD2, DD3 etc for CP TR6. Then the CR throttle bodies started using DD1 again. Not sure if the DD numbers are meant to be chronological or denote differs moulds or suppliers but they were made at different times. When I am reconditioning throttle bodies I try to supply matched sets. It would also be good to provide the correct types for 5’s and 6’s whilst I’m at it.
Thanks for your help
Martin Giles
Fred Millturn Parts
-
On 3/25/2021 at 3:14 PM, John L said:
Martin
My 3 throttle bodies are all DD1, and I don't have the front air screw fitted, these are all still original, engine # 2492. Does this help?
John
Hi John, thanks for that. There appears to be two versions of the DD1’s we have seen so far. One has no reinforcement around the air balance tube and the other only has one reinforced. What have you got?
-
21 hours ago, saffrontr said:
Hi Martin,
I've had the car since 1978 and as far as I know they are original other than one of them that I had to replace as I damaged it by overtightening of the injector clamp. I have just looked at that one which is also a 1DD and it has a date stamped on it of the 15 Jun, it also has the drilling for the slow running screw. As to what year that implies is anyone's guess
kind regards
Derek
Thanks Derek.
-
Hi Peter, those are early DD1’s. No reinforcing around either balance pipe.
-
10 hours ago, saffrontr said:
If it helps all of the manifolds on my 1971 TR6, CP54529-O are 1DD. These don't have the hole drilled for the idle screw fitting used on the TR5, which of course didn't have the air valve which was fitted to the TR6. I do have another spare set of 1DD which do have the drillings for the screws and I have attached an image of one of those. I also have images of most of the other manifolds with numbers DD1 through to DD6 some of which have the idle screw drilling and some of which don't so if I was a betting man my feeling is that the different DD numbers are just to do with the different casting moulds used rather than being in a chronological order. This would appear to be borne out by looking at the images of the different numbered manifolds which all look identical all other than the number.
The early unnumbered TR5 ones are of course a distinctly different casting.
Derek
Hi Derek. Thanks for that. Are your 1DD’s original to your car? If you look closely at the DD1’s, you can see that there is reinforcing only on one side where the balance pipe enters the casting, so the ones with no numbers and DD1’s are definitely early. The numbering on the 1DD’s is almost identical to the DD1’s, which suggests they may have been made by same company or at similar time. I was just wondering if anyone knew for sure!
kind regardsmartin
Throttle body rebuild and butterfly adjustment
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Alan, I have been meaning to make some stock of resale spindles for CR cars, but I have been too busy with other work. Let me know if Carl cannot sort you out and I can supply whatever CR spindles you need.
kind regards
Martin AKA Fred Millturn
IMG_1220.webp