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  1. Coil on the block gets large heat soak when the engine's warm and can cause issues, I had this with this scenario when I got my car. As above I'd go back to points and fault find from the coil working forward to the plugs. Rob
  2. Thanks for the input guys and apologies for the late reply. Jim, how did you find installing and setting up the 123 ignition? Looks like an awesome bit of kit as the price tag would suggest, don’t see much change from £270.00! I understand why it’s that price but should any faults occur it’s not a system that can be easily fixed, same I guess going for an Accuspark or similar type distributor but the costs for these types are £70.00 with a timing light can be all it at £85.00. I’ve spoken with Martin and he’s currently on a 8 week turnaround for refurbs so that leave me with either get
  3. Hi all Just in the process of looking to purchase a new distributor with solid state components in order to omit the points as mine's rather worn and sometimes struggles when the cars up to temp. Car's a TR6 1973, I have d22 referenced on the current distributor if this referes to anything, assume Lucas ref? I've seen a few on the popular auction website but they don't seem to have a mechanical tachometer connection. Are there any suppliers out there that do them? Also what are the options/costs in going with an electronic tacho? Any opinions or experienced welcomed. Thanks, Rob
  4. Great info thanks folks, so the red light is doing its job. I'll get the voltmeter out at the weekend and no doubt be getting a new alternator ordered up ASAP, I'll let you know the outcome.
  5. Thanks for the comments. Not being overly familiar with the electrics both seem reasonable causes for the fault. Pardon my ignorance but can the diode plate be accessed and fixed? Eg new diode, solder a broken connection or is it best off just getting a new altenator? Also how does a faulty diode effect the functionality of the altenator if I wish to run the car for a few days prior to fixing the problem? Thanks
  6. Hi again I have a strange problem with my 1973 TR6. The red ignition light stays on when the engine is off and keys are out, when the engine's running the light goes out. Similarly when the alternator white connector block is removed the ligh goes out which points me to an altenator fault. Wwhy would the light stay on when the car engine is off? Does this indicate a voltage difference between the battery and altenator, with there baing a ground/fault at the altenator? If necessary I can get some pics of the altenator tonight and confirm make/model. Any advice/halp would be appreciated?
  7. Well most issues are resolved now, can someone please point me in the direction of obtaining the 6 male hood poppers that fit to the car body? Many thanks Rob
  8. Thanks for the comments gents and the pic, to clarify the hood came with the car so I assume it was on it originally. Can you buy the male poppers to fit on the car and are they simple to fit without any specialist tools? Threaded (is access possible?) or rivet? Could you recommend a glue to use for mating the hood and frame? I'm intending to get the car re-spayed in 2017 and the hood will remain mostly down so think I'll wait until then to address the matter with the missing backplate. If this was something I could do with locating a back plate and screwing through it I would, correct me
  9. Hi all A simple morning job to remove the hard top and fit the soft top. I should know better by now..... So after removing my hard top Ive found that there are no male hood poppers around the side/rear of where the hood goes, 3 either side. Would I be best fitting the hood then taking the car to a specialist to get these installed? Holes are there but may they need relocating as Im fitting a new retaining bar? After offering the new retaining bar up and found that the holes where the 7 rear hood screws go through to the body dont quite line up and will need drilling, is this a com
  10. Ah my mistake Alan, I though that picture was originally you signature as I've noticed some large ones knocking about. Thanks for the info on the DVLA which I may persue at a later date. Thanks guys, few recent pics below and ones from a month or so ago where I tidied up the front end not long after I picked her up. Thanks, Rob
  11. Sorry to jump on this thread but are the dash clocks/gauge bulbs 9mm dia?
  12. You havent at all Alan, and I completely agree that community forums like this and others a frequent are the best way to get / share info and help. Alsn - Speaking of which is there anywhere locally you use for carb balancing and bodywork? Two things I'm not willing to attempt on my TR6. Simon - Is there any info you can provide on your old car? All I know it that it was imported in the late 90s and converted to RHD, it came with a bunch of UK receipts etc. but nothing on where the cars been prior to the UK. Its always nice to know its been owned by an enthusiast and I hope you find so
  13. Hi folks, thanks for the warm welcome!! Yes, I’m very much looking forward to joining and getting involved as I've heard only good things, a problem shared and all that good stuff. I'll get a post up in the next few days if the weathers ok and when I’ve got images of my engine bay/electrics etc. Conrad – Funnily enough I’m in Newark now “at work” where I am 50% of the week. Rob
  14. Hi, Relatively new owner here from Sheffield, had my TR6 for a few months now after moving on from a Spitfitre. The TR6 bit of a dream come true as it's my favourite Triumphs but its not without its faults. Been a joy to own so far, fixed a few problems, made a few too but as always there's a few more to resolve and plenty of questions to ask you guys which Ill save for specific threads. Heres the car, currently on twin SUs with the hard top fitted when I took her out for a spin last week as it was relatively dry. Im going to pay my dues and officially join in a few weeks, hoping to
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